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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 






UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



THE 
IMPROVED PRACTICAL SYSTEM 

OP 

EDUCATOG THE HORSE; 

/ BY 

A. H.'EOCKWELL, 

ORIGINATOR OF THK MODE OF 

I>R,IVIlVO \^ITHOXJT K,EIISrS. 

ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTY-FIVE FULL-PAGE EXGRATINGS. 

With a Hist<ynj of his famous Horses, << TIOEM,*' " STAJR," and 

<< MAZEPPJL.'* 

ALSO, A 

TKEATISE ON SHOEmG. 

TOGETHER WITH AN ACCOUNT OP 

DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT, 

WITH NEW AND VALUABLE RECIPES, 

ALSO, A STATEMENT OP HIS 

METHOD OF TRAINING CATTLE AND DOGS. 




FISHER & FIELD, PRINTERS, 



561 AND 563 BROADWAY. 
1866. 






Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1SC6, by 

A. H. ROCKWELL, 

in the Clerk's Office of tlie District Court of tlie United States for the Southern 
District of New- York. 



John A. Gray & Green's 
Patent Steam ^^' 
Composing and Disti115tItiftg»M'a<:^j|g3^„^ 
New- York. 



PREFACE 



The author of this work has prepared it for the pur- 
pose of correcting many erroneous notions which now 
prevail in the care and management of Horses, as well 
as to place in the hands of those interested a valuable 
Instructor. Embracing as it does all of my theories and 
practices, together with a history of an experience of 
twelve years in the business of Training Horses, it can 
not fail of being a valuable assistant to those who feel 
an interest in the education of this noble animal. 

In the previous editions of this work there are many 
points which experience has taught me are incorrect, 
and in this issue I labor to remove all such erroneous 
impressions. 

I also add, what has not heretofore been published, a 
history of all Horses now on exhibition throughout the 
country, which are being driven without reins — the sys- 
tem being entirely original with myself. 

My treatment of Diseases, new Recipes, and Train- 
ing of Cattle and Dogs, is peculiar to myself, and I hope 
to make them useful to the reader. 

The account of Diseases and their Treatment may be 
relied upon, being^jfhe result of personal experience and 
actual test and observation. 

The Author of this Book is 

A. H. ROCKWELL, 

Of Harpersville^ 

Broome Co.^ N, IT, 

By remitting $5 by letter to the above address, a 
copy will be forwarded to your address immediately. 
Don't forget to write your name and address plain. 

A. H. R. 



fi^ 



^ 



HISTORY OF THE FAMOUS HORSES 

" TIGER," " STAR," AND " MAZEPPA," 



AND OTHER 



HORSES DRIVEN WITHOUT REINS. 



Most of our early life, after we had arrived at suf- 
ficient age, was spent in the business of Breaking Colts 
and Training Horses. An experience of a number of 
years qualified us, in our estimation, to travel through- 
out the country in the business of educating the Horse, 
practicing such means and using such knowledge as was 
then at our command. When, however, we attempted 
to do business outside the circle of our acquaintance, we 
invariably met with a repugnance on the part of the pub- 
lic to have any thing to do with a professional " Horse- 
Tamer," as we were then called. So many persons who 
were entirely unfitted for the business had imposed upon 
the people, that they wisely refused to be any longer 
humbugged. 

Satisfied from our experience with the Horse that he 
possessed more intelligence than was generally accred- 
ited to him, and feeling the Hecessity of doing some- 
thing to legitimately bring ourselves into notice, we 



(C 



TIGER," '* STAR," AND " MAZEPPA." 



put into effect a long-cherished idea, which was to so 
train a horse as to not only make his exhibition a nov- 
elty, but to satisfy the public that we possessed, by means 
of the knowledge we had acquired, more than ordinary 
control over the animal which we advertised ourselves to 
educate. 

Being confident that, by means then known to us, 
we could teach the horse to be driven without reins, we 
made our first attempt uj^on the noAV celebrated horse, 
owned by us, Mcyrgan Tiger. 

This horse was sent to us at our residence in Broome 
county, N. Y., to break of a very vicious and long- 
standing habit of frequently frisking and kicking when 
hitched to a wagon. Tiger was at that time — August, 
1860 — owned by JoH]sr S. Tarbell, proj^rietor of the 
Franklin House, at Montrose, Pa. We applied to Tiger 
our system, with marked success, and in sixteen days 
from the time he came into our possession we exhibited 
him before the Susquehanna County (Pa.) Agricultural 
Society ; to the utter surprise of the people, driving him 
— to a sulky — loithout reins, rapidly around the track — 
turning, stopping, and starting, with perfect success. 

At this time we were invited by Gov. Geary and 
Gen. Sturtevant, two of the managers of the Pennsyl- 
vania State Agiicultural Society, to give an exhibition 
at their forthcoming State Fair, at Wyoming. The fol- 
lowing notice, heralding our coming, appeared in the 
lAizerne Union, of the date of Sept. 19, 1860, at the 
close of an article upon the State Fair : 

"In addition to the other attractions, we understand 
that Mr. John" S. Tarbell will be present during the 
Fair with his celebrated Stallion Morgan Tiger, for- 
merly a very wicked horse, but has been so thoroughly 
trained and broken by A. H. Rockwell, of Broome 



" TIGER," " STAR," AND *' MAZEPPA. 



5> 



county, N". Y., that lie will be driven around the course 
at fall speed before a sulky, loithout bridle or reins! 
Mr. Rockwell will also be on hand to exhibit his skill 
in the management and taming of the worst-tempered 
horses." 

At the Fair in the following week we appeared ac- 
cording to announcement, exhibiting on the afternoon 
of each of the three days. Mr. Rockwell here proved 
to the entire satisfaction of himself and the public that 
his theory of driving without lines was a fixed fact. 
He drove Tiger to a skeleton-wagon, with simply a 
surcingle to hold up the thills, without bridle, reins, 
breeching, or breast-collar, driving him at a slashing 
pace, surging him to and fro, breaking him up and 
running him, turning and twisting in all directions — in 
fact, handling him with all the ease that the most ac- 
complished horseman could a well-broke horse with the 
reins, and all by a few motions with the whip, without 
speaking a word. At the conclusion of each perform- 
ance Mr. Rockwell was loudly cheered by the assem- 
bled multitude, and received congratulations on all 
hands from the most skillful horsemen in the State, for 
his unrivaled success. 

The next exhibition was at the State Fair at Elmira, 
New- York, in the same fall. This exhibition will be 
remembered by those present as exciting the wonder 
and admiration of those who saw it, and the disappoint- 
ment of those who were not on the grounds at the time. 

After a few other exhibitions at County Fairs, the 
horse was returned to Mr. Taebell, the owner, where 
he remained until in the winter of 1860-61, when Mr. 
Rockwell again took him and gave exhibitions to j^ri- 
vate audiences in halls, walking the horse up and down- 
stairs, to and from his performances. Tliis he did for 



8 " TIGER," " STAR," AND '* MAZEPPA." 

several weeks, in the States of Pennsylvania and New- 
York, when the horse was again returned to the owner. 

In January, 1862, Mr. Kockwell purchased Tiger 
of Mr. Takbell, since which time he has been almost 
constantly giving exhibitions in the States and in Canada. 

In April, 1862, Mr. Rockwell trained the pet colt 
JBahy^ a three-year-old dark chestnut colt, with a email 
star in the forehead, the near hind-foot white ; a splendid 
animal, sired by Tig&\ and purchased by Mr. Rockwell 
and Dr. J. H. Caldwell, of Michigan. Of this colt the 
Hudson (K Y.) Gazette of May 22, 1862, says: 

" Prof. Rockwell gave an exhibition of his wonder- 
ful control over this spirited animal, on the Fair Ground 
on Wednesday afternoon, in the presence of many of 
the most distinguished horsemen in the county, where 
he drove a span of highly-mettled stallions attached to 
a light wagon, around the track without bridle, reins, 
breechmg or collar, controlling them wholly with his 
whip and voice. One of them, a beautiful three-year- 
old, had been broke and received all his training within 
sev^en weeks. After this feat, the Professor hitched the 
colt to a skeleton -wagon in the same manner, and drove 
at the top of his speed around the course, which extraor- 
dinary performance drew the wildest applause from the 
judges and the immense throng of spectators." 

This was the first exhibition ever given of a double 
team driven without reins. The horse which was hitch- 
ed by the side of the colt, was Tiger, his sire. Dr. Cald- 
well has since purchased our interest in this colt JBaby, 
and has traveled in the Western States exhibiting him. 

The next horse broke to be driven without reins, wa^ 
a somewhat noted vicious horse belonging in St. Law- 
rence county, N. Y., called Turco. This horse be- 
longed to Mr. D. Magner, since become a successful 



" TIGER," " STAE," AND " MAZEPPA." 9 

horse-trainer, whom we met in the spring previous, and 
who, upon hearing our system, dropped the old systems 
which he had been practicing, and adopted ours. He 
has since written a book upon the Training of the Horse, 
and has been a vahiable aid to others in the education 
of this animal. His horse he broke himself under in- 
structions sought of and given him by us by letters 
written. This horse has since been exhibited through- 
out some of the Eastern States and Pennsylvania. 

In the fall of 1862 we gave an exhibition at the Na- 
tional Horse Fair at Buftalo ; soon after giving another 
at the Provincial Fair at Toronto, Canada West. Thence 
we proceeded to give exhibitions, and hold classes for 
instruction, with great success, throughout Canada and 
the New-England States, Among the places visited was 
Montreal, Montpelier, Vt., (exhibiting before the State 
Legislature,) Brattleboro, Vt., Springfield, Mass., etc. 

At Springfield, in March, 1863, we purchased the 
horse Star, now owned by us. This horse was sold 
to us upon a written warrantee that he was " sound, 
could trot in 2.50, and would go into the first bam he 
saw open, in spite of your efibrts to prevent." We 
found him all he was advertised, being es23ecially con- 
firmed in his bad habits. The next day after his pur- 
chase he was driven to Hartford, Ct., and on the 
following day he was brought before our class of in- 
struction to receive his first lesson in driving without 
reins and being broke of his bad habits. He received 
such training as we could find time to give him while 
traveling constantly, giving exhibitions; and on May 
9th, a little over a month from the time we took the 
horse, we gave an exhibition of Star and Tiger hitched 
together, at Worcester, Mass,j^ ^he horses driving beaur 
tifully without reins. 



10 " TIGER," " STAR," AND " MAZEPPA, 



)5 



On the 3cl of April, 1863, we commenced training a 
wild and nervous Black Hawk horse for Messrs. Wil- 
liams & Wilder, who were at that time receiving in- 
structions from us, jDreparatory to giving instructions 
themselves. In about six days we delivered them the 
horse, and on the following week they gave a success- 
ful exhibition at Whittingham, Yt. They continued to 
give successful performances for some months, when 
through entire carelessness on the part of the driver, 
the horse was severely iirjured by the breaking of a 
vehicle, and has not since been exhibited. We are in- 
formed that each of these two gentlemen has a horse 
which he is driving Avithout reins, broke according to 
our directions. 

In the following December we purchased a black 
stallion at Providence, R. I., broke him perfectly to 
drive, and in the February after, at Lowell, Mass., sold 
him to a gentleman named Gammox, who has since ex- 
hibited him in the British Provinces, giving lessons in 
training which he had learned from us. 

At Boston, Mass., in March, 1864, we sold Tlffer and 
Star to E. C. Dudley, of Newton Upper Falls, Mass., 
for $5000 with instructions. Mr. Dudley traveled 
with the team, giving exhibitions, until January 1865, 
when after having been quite successful, (Mr. Rock- 
well remaining with the team and driving them dur- 
ing this time,) we purchased them back. After re- 
purchasing them, we gave a famous exhibition, by a 
permit of the city authorities, granted upon petition of 
many prominent citizens, at Fairmount Park, Philadel- 
phia; afterwiird at the Dubois Track, New- York City, 
before an audience of the prominent horse fanciers of 
that city. At this exhibition we introduced our three- 
year-old stallion Hamlet, which we had previously 



" TIGER," " STAR," AND " MAZEPPA." 1 1 

trained. Of this exhibition the N. Y. Ttihune of May 
20th, 1865, says: 

"A truly novel and wonderful exhibition of skill in 
the management of horses was given yesterday after- 
noon at the Dubois Association Track, on Eighth Ave- 
nue, near One Hundred and Forty-eighth street. 
Messrs. Rockwell and Hurlburt, the celebrated train- 
ers of horses, demonstrated to the persons assembled, 
the great superiority of mental j)Ower to that of physical. 
The exercises were commenced by Mr. E. A. Hurlburt 
driving a two-year-old colt to a wagon, without the 
use of reins or of any other harness except barely suf- 
ficient to fasten the horse to the carriage. The horse 
was guided by the motions of the Avhip. It would trot, 
run, turn partially or wholly around, and back with 
perfect ease. In fact, it appeared that the horse went 
through with the evolutions much more easily and 
quickly than if the reins were used. Mr. Rockwell 
then brought forward a beautiful span of stallions which 
were made to perform the same feats. These horses 
were so trained that they would pass and go around 
other vehicles with the utmost ease. One horse would 
canter, while the other would still continue to trot. 
The horses were then unfastened from the buggy, and 
allowed to roam within the crowd. Mr. Rockwell had 
one of the horses perform some tricks, such as following 
him, kicking with one foot, etc. He asked the horse a 
few questions, which were responded to by shaking the 
head. The liorses were then trotted around the course, 
after which Mr. Rockwell made a speech to the j^er- 
sons present, among whom were some of the owners 
and drivers of the fastest teams in the city. They all 
expressed their great wonder at the performance, and 
their wish to understand the art. There will be another 



?) 



12 " TIGEE," " STAE," AND " MAZEPPA. 

exliibition of the same sort this afternoon, at four 
o'clock, at the same place. There will most probably be 
a large gathering." 

While in Philadelphia we sold to Mr. Dudley the 
large chestnut horse Boh Roy, afterward used by him 
in exhibitions. This horse performs tricks in the pub- 
lic street, taught him by us. He has since been exhibit- 
ed by the firm of Magxee & Dudley. 

We make the following extract, referring to two 
other horses, from the Chenango American, a newspa- 
per published at Greene, Chenango Co., N". Y. 

" HoESEMANSHiP ExTEAOEDiNAEY. — Nearly cvcry day 
a sight may be seen in our streets which is very sel- 
dom witnessed elsewhere. Messrs. Le Roy Cowles 
and J. D. Cowles, of this village, pupils of the cele- 
brated horse-trainer, A. H. Rockwell, have two stal- 
lions, one a large, noble-looking and highly-spirited ani- 
mal, well knoAvn in this section by the name of Wni. 
Miner, and the other a beautifully marked and grace- 
ful horse, called Spot Beauty. These horses are driven 
through our streets without any reins or other modes 
of guiding or controlling them except by the motion 
of the whip held in the hands of the drivers who are 
seated behind them. They drive at a slashing pace, 
turn quickly and gracefully, stop suddenly, back, walk 
or trot, and all without a word being spoken, and by no 
other means than by the motion of the significant whip. 
About a year since, Mr. Rockwell gave us an exhibition 
of similar driving of his trained stallions Tiger and 
Star, which excited the wonder and admiration of the 
public." 

About the first of December, 1865, we purchased, at 



"HGER," "star," and "mazeppa." 13 

"Webster, Wayne county, N. Y., the milk-wliite colt 
Mazeppa, and in the last of March, 1866, we gave an 
exhibition with him before the public, hitched to car- 
riage, without reins, at Georgetown, Ohio, acknowl- 
edged by all who witnessed it to be the most perfect ex- 
hibition of the kind they had ever seen. Since that time, 
we have exhibited him constantly, through Western 
Ohio, Central Indiana, and in Michigan. He is of a 
perfectly milk-white color, beautifully formed, of grace- 
ful carriage, and is advertised as the handsomest horse 
in America. He is now so trained, that we hitch him 
up between Tiger and Star in a triple pair of shafts, 
adapted to the purpose, enabling us to give the only 
exhibition ever known of driving loithout reins, THREE 
HORSES ABREAST to a carriage. 

We had forwarded to us at Columbus, Ohio, in Feb. 
ruary, 1866, a dark chestnut horse, bearing the same 
name — JRob Hog — as the one purchased by Dudley. 
He was trained by E. A. Huklbuet, at Harpersville, 
Broome county. This horse we hitched up with Ham- 
let, at Columbus, his trainer driving the team without 
reins. At that time, and at our exhibitions which followed 
during the summer of 1866, up to June 14th, 1866, this 
Rob Hog was owned by M. D. Huklbukt, of the late 
firm of Rockwell & Hurlbukt. At that date, Mr. A. 
H. Rockwell purchased him for $1000, and continued 
to give exhibitions with him in connection with his other 
horses, until the last week in August, 1866, when he 
sold him for |1500 to W. W. Hotchkiss, of Windsor, 
Broome county, N. Y., who is now giving exhibitions 
with him and Hamlet, the latter horse being still 
owned by Mr. Rockwell. 

This concludes the history of all horses driven with- 
out reins, which have been exhibited to the public, and 



14 "tiger," "star," and "mazeppa, 



n 



it "will be seen that in every instance tlieir training is 
traceable directly to us and our system. 

Tiger and ^tar are still in our possession. Tiger is 
thirteen years old, of the Gifford-Morgan stock, is a 
dark chestnut, near hind-foot white — a beautifully 
formed horse, being rarely excelled for style and action. 
He has commanded the first premium wherever offered 
for competition. Star is nine years old, of the Black 
Hawk stock, (owned by Hill, of Vermont,) a beautiful 
dark bay, black mane and tail, black legs, faithfully 
representing the famous stock from whence he sprung. 
He is also superior in all the qualities which tend to 
make a magnificent horse. They each weigh one thou- 
sand j)Ounds when very fiit. 

The driving of horses without reins not being of 
practical utility to tlie public generally, it does not 
come within the scope of our instructions. 

The foregoing portion of the vvorli is not private, and may be read 
aloud to those interested. 




Copyright secured. 



TO PURCHASERS. 

This book and our system being copy-righted, pur- 
chasers have every right of using, but no right of teach- 
ino; or transferring^ to others the book or its contents. 
Those doing so will render themselves liable to prose- 
cution. 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 



Having had an experience of thirteen years in the 
business of Breaking Colts and Training Horses, and 
having given particular attention to the nature, habits, 
and disposition of the Horse, we have, by the light of 
our experience, made many valuable improvements in 
the system of educating this useful animal to be sub- 
servient to the wants of man. In the following lessons 
we endeavor to explain, in the most direct manner pos- 
sible, certain infallible rules, which, if strictly adhered 
to, will surely and safely accomplish the desired re- 
sult. Exj)lanations of the traits, habits, and causes of 
the habits, of the animal, with reasons for every step 
we take, will, as far as necessary, accompany each illus- 
tration. 

In laying these illustrations before the reader we de- 
sii*e to impress him with the idea that we are not, in 
the common acceptation of the term, ^^ horse-tamers.^^ 
We have a higher and nobler aim than to merely tamo 



18 TKAIXING OF HORSES. 

and subdue this valuable animal. Our object is to 
educate him — to operate through such intelligences as 
are given him ; and by careful, patient, and kind treat- 
ment, guide^ direct, and teach the horse what is required 
of him. You may, perhaps, by harsh and cruel treat- 
ment, break his spirit and compel him, through abject 
fear, to obey certain commands, but unless you accom- 
pany your acts, which should, as far as possible be gen- 
tle and humane, by some method which will convince 
the intelligence of the horse, and which Tvill thereby 
make a lasting impression, you have not reached the 
true theory of Horse-Training. 

We have no disposition to interfere with or denounce 
other systems, but in putting our system before the 
public in printed form, it is a duty we owe to ourselves 
to fully explain wherein lies its advantage over other 
systems. This can not, perhaps, be better done than 
b}^ giving an example ; thus : 

Suppose you have a horse which kicks at you every 
time you attempt to enter his stall. You have perhaps 
been told by some professional horse-tamer, that if you 
strap up one fore-foot and tie a strap to the other, 
then pull up on the strap, you may throw the horse 
down, and that if you repeat this a few times, he will 
become docile, and allow you to enter the stall without 
his kicking you ; and you have then probably been told, 
that, upon the theory of showing the animal your power 
over him, you have broken him of the habit, and that 
the same rule will apply to all other bad habits. The 



TRAINING OP HORSES. 19 

fact is that for the time being you have tired, wearied, 
frightened and broken down your horse, and he has no 
ambition or strength to kick or give evidence of other 
habits, good or bad. The next day you attempt to 
enter your stall, and you will find him as much a kicker 
as ever. You quite reasonably ask, "How long does 
this horse-taming last?" The tamer will tell you to 
repeat the ojjeration; and so you may, until you have 
destroyed your horse ; but you have taught him nothing^ 
except, perhaps, to fall down when you make the motion 
to put on the straps. 

We believe, in a measure, in subduing the horse, but 
at the same time he must know for what purpose, and 
the application of the power which you possess over 
him must be made directly to each bad habit of which 
you wish to cure him, or to each new habit you wish 
him to form. "We wish to make it plain that our theory 
is, that for every habit you cure or cause to be formed, 
there must be a separate and distinct lesson, and submis- 
sion and understanding, on the part of the horse, ob- 
tained in each instance. This is the only submission 
which is of any real value. The illustrations which we 
give of our manner of proceeding carry this theory 
into effectual practice. 

The horse trained after our method loses none of 
his vigor or elasticity, and as he is 'taught each lesson, 
if our advice is closely followed, it will be given at the 
right time in the right place, and be founded upon the 
laws of nature ; and the practice being continued until hab- 



20 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

its are formed, he is permanently educated to your 
wants. 

Of course, a horse which can be broken of a bad 
habit and taught a useful one, may by the same rule 
have his habits reversed; or may by careless handling 
lose the useful habit and acquire bad ones; but by 
proper usage, the horses taught by our method retain 
their lessons throughout life. 

We now commence our illustrations of our method, 
again cautioning the operator to be careful and explicit- 
ly follow our directions, as some professed horse-tamers 
have borrowed portions of our system, and leaving out 
some apparently trifling yet important items, have con- 
tributed to bring the business into disrepute. We begin 
with 

THE -WILD COLT. 

The first step to be taken is to see that the inclosure 
in which you intend to ojoerate upon the colt is unoccu- 
pied by any thing which might distract the attention of 
the colt; for instance, fowls, domestic animals, etc., 
and all persons except the one who is to undertake the 
training. This latter precaution should be taken for 
the reason that the presence of other parties would an- 
noy the colt ; also, that by allowing them to be present 
you would violate the conditions of your instruction. 

Being prepared, the object is then to get the colt 
into his training place as carefully as possible, using 
such gentle means as may be convenient and most 
likely to be successful without exciting the colt. Every 



TRAINING OF HOESES. 21 

farmer or person at all acquainted with the management 
of horses knows well enough how to do this in his own 
way, without being governed by any fixed rule. The 
next thing to be done is to ^ 

HALTEK-BEEAK THE COLT. 

This operation is often accompanied with danger un- 
less the proper steps are taken to avoid it. Our ex- 
perience has taught us, that at this point it is well to 
be governed by these rules : Flrst^ Provide against ac- 
cident to yourself; Second^ Secure your horse against 
the possibility of injury; Third^ Accomplish your desire 
with the animal in the quickest time possible to render 
the lesson a permanent one. Having these rules in 
view, we proceed as follows : Take a stick about the 
size of a rake-stale, and about ten or twelve feet in length, 
the length to be governed by the prospect of danger 
from the viciousness or nervousness of the colt. Com- 
mence within about an inch of one end, and whittle up 
a few stout shavings on one side, whittling toward the 
centre of the stick, and leaving the shavings attached to 
the stick; a few inches from the shavings alluded to, 
(the distance to be governed by the width apart of the 
colt's ears,) whittle up a few similar shavings, whit- 
tling this time from the centre of the stick. Take a 
common rope halter, with a running noose; hang the 
part of the halter which is intended to rest on the 
head back of the ears, upon the shavings, (they being 
strong enough to bear the weight of the halter,) turn- 



22 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

ing the shavings upward for security in holding it. 
You are now ready to commence operations with the 
colt, in doing which it is advisable to understand the 
fact that curiosity is a strong trait in the horse, and 
when not overcome by fear or some other powerful in- 
fluence, is sure to j)revail. This you can test previous 
to operating if you choose, by placing a hat or handker- 
chief upon the end of your stick and holding it toward 
the colt. He may be alarmed at first, but if you re- 
main quiet, moving the object gently, the nature of the 
colt will be to reach his nose toward it, and quite 
likely to touch it. He will soon become accustomed to 
the stick, and will manifest the same curiosity in regard 
to the halter. You will now take the halter, with the 
noose unloosened perhaps half the length of the halter- 
stale, holding the end with the stick in both hands, the 
halter being placed upon the shavings as before sug- 
gested. If the halter-stale is not long enough, attach 
a piece, as it is best to keep yourself as far as possible 
from the colt. The colt will gradually begin to smell 
at the halter, when you will hold the stick pretty well 
up over the head, and while the animal's attention is 
attracted by the swinging of the halter, and his nose 
near that portion of the halter-stale which is slipped 
through the noose, you will gently pass the rope over 
his ears, and turning the stick half round, drop the rope 
from the shavings upon the colt's head just back of the 
ears. This will probably cause the colt to start back, 
and by holding firmly upon the halter-stale, the noose 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 23 

will be drawn up, fastening the halter upon the head. 
The stick may now be laid aside. 

Having your colt haltered, your object is now to 
teach him its use. You will take a position about op- 
posite the shoulder, still keeping at a distance, and give 
him a sharp, short pull toward you, sufficient to move 
him, immediately slackening your pull. The object in 
doing this is to cause the animal to feel your power to 
move him, and by slackening the pull you do not give 
him time to . resist, which, if the pull should be steady, 
he will do, even to the extent of throwing himself down, 
(which is to be always avoided.) This you may re- 
peat for a few times, until the disposition to resist seems 
to grow weaker. You will then repeat the operation 
upon the other side, alternating from side to side, (al- 
ways avoiding a forward pull,) and continuing the short 
pulls until the colt either moves readily or becomes 
stubborn. The reason for working upon both sides is, 
that in this, as well as all other points which you at- 
tempt to instruct the horse, there are two sides to teach. 
What he learns to do from one side must be learned by 
the same process on the other side, in order to have the 
same understanding of what is required of him. The 
reason for avoiding a forward pull is, that you can not 
easily move the colt in that direction ; and as he learns 
from your acts, you should attempt to perform no act 
in which you are not reasonably sure to succeed. 

If the colt appear i to be of a yielding disposition, you 
will now gradually shorten your hold upon the halter, 



24 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

as you pull from side to side, being watchful to avoid 
the possibility of his striking or kicking you, until you 
come within reach of his head, when you will gently 
put forth your hand and allow him to examine it with 
his nose — that organ being the one made use of by all 
horses to test the dansrer or harmlessness of substances 
which alarm them. As he becomes accustomed to your 
2^resence, which he will readily do if you are gentle, you 
will then proceed to carefully caress him over the face 
and forehead, gradually extending your hand down his 
neck, being cautious not to touch his ears. As soon as 
he begins to cringe or grow restive under your hand, 
remove it and gently place it again near his nose, re- 
peating the former operation, extending the hand far- 
ther and farther at each repetition, until he becomes 
calm. You will now quietly tie a knot through the 
noose, so that it can not slip, leaving it quite loose, to 
avoid hurting him. Remember that up to this point 
you have not hurt the colt, and have therefore called 
out no undue resistance on his part. The main objec- 
tion to a rope halter has been that it was used in such 
a manner as to hurt the colt. We obviate this objec- 
tion, first, by the short pull and slackening up before 
the resistance is excited ; second, by tying the knot as 
soon as practicable, so that the noose can not tighten 
around the nose. At any time after this during the 
process, when you can safely do so, you may, if you 
choose, change to a strap halter. V^ou will now step 
back and repeat the pulling operation, being careful 



TRAINING OF HOESES. 25 

to get a side pull. As you pass in front, if the colt 
shows a disposition to move, instead of pulling imme- 
diately, first approach and caress him, performing slowly 
and gently, and, as far as you can, encouraging the ani- 
mal w^henever he shows signs of doing what you require, 
until he steps Avillingly loithout the pull. 

Should the colt prove to be of a stuhhorn dis]3osition, 
and refuse to move as you desire, you will take hold of 
the halter-stale with your left hand about a foot from 
the head, and with your right hand seize him by the 
tail, and give him a few sharp turns around, pulling the 
head toward you, and giving him an occasional kick 
with the top of your foot across the buttock. {See 
Figure 4.) This will have the effect of creating a de- 
gree of submission, the colt learning that he has a mas- 
ter. ISTow proceed with the pulling as before ; and if he 
remains stubborn, repeat the operation of turning, twice 
or three times. By this time he will probably appear 
to brighten up, and show signs of being willing to 
step. If he should not, you will take a bow-top whip 
or beech limb in your right hand, holding the halter- 
stale with your left hand, you standing by his side. 
Hold the whip over the back of the colt and touch him 
gently with it across the off-side hip, at the same mo- 
ment giving a gentle side pull upon the halter. [See 
Jbigure 1.) If he starts Avith this movement, caress him 
and then repeat with the whip. If he does not start, 
use a little more force with the whip. If he is still 
stubborn and does not show signs of moving, caresp 




p^ 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 21 

him, give him a kind look or word, and step back a few 
moments before proceeding, allowing him to get quiet 
if he appears angered ; as the reason for this conduct is 
that the colt is frightened, and by your kindness and 
patience alone is he to be assured that you do not mean 
to injure him. He Avill soon grow less excited, when 
you may proceed. As soon as the colt will step readily 
at a slight side pull, take oif the halter or throw the 
halter-stale over the neck, and let him go. This will 
do for the first lesson. 

The colt should now be left alone for at least half 
an hour, or until he has recovered from the excitement. 
Any time thereafter, the lesson may be repeated ; and 
as soon as he becomes perfectly accustomed to obey 
the side pull, you may then, and not before, commence 
to teach him to obey the forward pull, by gently pull- 
inof him straig-ht ahead ; and if he leads, no matter how 
little, caress him, and repeat; but be careful and not 
pull too hard. If he does not move with a reasonable 
pull, give him two or three of the short side pulls, and 
try again. In a little Avhile he will obey your desire, 
and lead. Be sure and not give a determined pull in 
front, as it will not succeed, and will only teach the 
colt your weakness, and by inflicting ]Dain upon him 
learn him to pull at the halter — the natural movement 
being in an opposite direction from whatever causes the 
pain. You are now ready for 



28 TEAINING OF HOESES. 

HITCHING THE COLT IN THE STALL. 

Tlie stall, wliicli should be a common one-horse stall, 
about four feet wide, should be prepared by havmg a 
hole boi'ed on each side of the rear end of the stall, to 
put a pole through, or staples driven in to tie a rope or 
strap across, at about the height where the breeching 
would come on the colt if harnessed. You will lead 
the colt into the stall ; and if some other person can be 
called to assist, have him j)ut up the pole or strap — if 
not, do it yourself, being sure to have it done before 
yoii tie the colt. If required to do it yourself, first pass 
the end of the halter-stale through the ring or place of 
tying, and keep your hold of the end, so that if the colt 
attempts to pull back, you can step forward and ca- 
ress and quiet him. The reason for putting up the ob- 
struction in the rear before tying is, because you there- 
by avoid the risk of the colt, through fright, pulling at 
the halter. When once tied, which should be with 
considerable slack, if he attempts to back out of the 
stall he will hit the rope or pole and step forward, in- 
stead of hurting his head with the halter and pulling 
harder to avoid the hurt. In removing the colt from the 
stall be sure and untie the halter before loosening the 
obstruction in the rear ; and for the first few days be 
careful and not hitch the colt where he can have a 
chance to pull. By observing these rules for eight or 
ten days, there is no danger that the colt will ever be- 
come a halter-puller. Bear in mind that during the en- 
tire process of handling the colt it is proper and neces- 



TRAINING OF HOKSES. 29 

sary to speak to liiin in a mild manner, for the purpose 
of familiarizing him with your voice, and as a partial 
guard over your own temper. Never speak sharp or 
over loud, but gently and firmly. For instance, in your 
side pulls say, " Come here, sir !" This kept up, will 
eventually teach the colt to come to you on being called 
by these woixls. 

TO GET THE COLT USED TO THE BIT. 

Place on the colt an ordinary head-stall with a joint- 
bit, without any check-strap or reins. Leave him in 
the stable or yard for a few minutes, then remove it. 
Frequently replace it, and allow it to remain on a short 
time. By this means his mouth becomes used to the 
bit, which is a great uuprovement on tlie old way of 
putting on the bitting-bridle at once. After a few times 
doing this, the colt is ready for 

THE BITTING-BRIDLE. 

For this, first prepare a well padded leather girth, 
with three loops firmly riveted on — one at the centre 
on the back, and one on each side about a third of the 
way down the side of the colt. The strap which is 
attached to the crouper should have a crotch of about 
six inches, and be about twelve inches long altogether. 
The slit part to be buckled to the crouper, the other 
end to have attached thereto a two-inch ring lying flat 
uj)on the haunch. To this ring is buckled a strap 
which runs along tlie back through the loop on top of 
the girth, and has a ring on the end placed perpendicu- 



80 TEAINING OF HORSES. 

larly, to which is to be attached the check-rein. This 
stra}) is to be double, so as to be taken up or let ont, 
to meet the check-rein, and to be adapted to the length 
of the back. To the ring on the haunch attach two 
short straps, (one on each side of the back-strap alluded 
to,) about eight inches long, with a buckle on the end 
of each. Use a common head-stall, with the gag-run- 
ners made of leather, well placed up toward the ears, 
and with a large joint-bit ; the throat-latch to be made 
large, and to buckle under the gag-runner. The side 
straps to be about five feet long, with a snap on one 
end, and holes for the buckle-tongue on the other end. 
These straps are to be fastened by the snap to the bit 
and then passed through the side loops on the girth, 
and be buckled to the short straps fastened to the ring 
on the haunch, {See Figure 2.) 

Another bridle, known as Rockwell's Bridle, is 
cheaper and in many instances better. Take a common 
harness pad and crouper ; pull out the breeching-strap 
and take out the terrets, (or a rope around the body and 
a strap for the crouj^er will answer.) Put on a common 
driving-bridle without blinds ; under all circumstances 
use a joint-bit. Take a piece of cotton clothes-line 
rope, about eight feet long; place the centre of the 
rope in the check-hook or fasten it to the strap which 
runs to the crouper ; pass one end of the rope through 
the gag-runner on the near side of the horse, passing it 
from toward the nostril back through the ring of the 
bit ; draAV it tolerably tight, and tie it to the pad or 



t9 




32 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

o-irth at the side. Perform tlie same operation on the 
off-side. You will see that by tying the rope to the 
2;irtli well up the sides toward the check-hook, it will 
compel him to hold his head high and will throw the 
nose out ; by tying them well down on the side, it w^ill 
lower the head and curve the neck, at the same time 
giving him the power to move the head up and down 
with considerable ease. In cases where bitting is re- 
quired only for the purpose of suppling and develojoing 
the muscles of the neck, this bridle should be used, as 
we have never known a horse to be injured by falling 
backward by being geared in this bridle. Having your 
bridle prepared, you may now proceed to 

BITTING THE COLT. 

In placing the bitting-bridle upon the colt great 
care should be taken not to buckle any of the straps 
very tight at first, as you might give pain and alarm 
the animal. Be particular and have the throat-latch 
loose enough, so that when he straightens up it will 
not choke him. Many horses have been ruined by care- 
lessness in this particular. In gearing him up care 
should be taken that the check is not too tight at first, 
lest he should in rearing go over backward and fall 
on the top of his head ; another reason ^e, that he will 
thereby yield more readily to the side-reins. The 
checking wp should be governed by the length and 
form of the neck and shoulders. The side-straps should 
be buckled just sufiiciently to impose restraint upon the 



TRAIISnNG OF IIOESES. 33 

colt. As soon as the colt shows a disposition to yield, 
the bridle should be removed or the check and side 
straps loosened. This should be done Avithin at least 
Jive oiihmtes from the time it is put on. The oftener it 
is taken off and replaced, for the first three days, the 
better; not, however, removing it while the colt is 
sulky and refuses to move his head. A lesson to be 
taught him here is, that he can not be loosened from the 
restraint while he is resisting it. This will prove useful 
in all future dealings with the animal. Should he prove 
unusually stubborn and refuse to yield, you may make 
use of w^hat we denominate the "Yankee Bridl^," a 
description of wdiicli and its use may be found on future 
pages. At your leisure you may now proceed to the 

HARNESSING OF THE COLT. 

hi the first place, harness the colt and allow him to 
walk around the yard or remain in tlie barn about a 
half an hour, to get accustomed to the rattling of the 
straps and the feeling of the harness in these unaccus- 
tomed positions ; then remove the harness. When con- 
venient replace the harness, for a short time, and again 
remove it. The third time you harness the colt, after 
he has been harnessed a few minutes, pass the tugs 
through the ring of the breeching and tie them, drawing 
the breeching and breast-collar pretty snugly against 
the body. After a little time you may commence to 
drive him with the reins, turning him in different di- 
rections, and gently urging him forward, impressing 



84 TRAINING OF HOESES. 

ii;^on him the fact that you control him, thus teaching 
him to obey the rein and go without leading. Be care- 
ful each time to repeat the word " Whoa !" at the same 
instant you pull up on the reins to stop him. This usu- 
ally occupies about three days' time. As soon as he 
appears handy with the reins, you are then ready for 

HITCHING UP THE COLT. 

If possible avoid hitching him up single. If it is real- 
ly necessary, however, to do so, be particular to place 
him in the thills as quietly as possible. As there is no 
particular danger attached to this transaction, we have 
no established rule, leaving the operator to be governed 
by circumstances and his own judgment. Before hitch- 
ing him to the wagon, rattle the thills, shake the wagon, 
walk him out and in between the thills, leading him in 
toward the wagon, unchecking him and allowing him 
to examine in his own way the object which is so new 
and terrifying to him. You must accustom him to the 
wagon or there will be danger. If he continues fright- 
ened in spite of these eiforts, it will be well to let him 
go for a while. If after one or two attempts he still 
continues excited and restive, you may then apply the 
" Yankee Bridle." For the method of its use see future 
pages, in which it is explained. The object of its use 
in this instance is to secure a more perfect control of 
the mouth, to be of use in case of sudden fright. If 
properly used twice or thrice it is certain to secure the 
desired end. You may then hitch him to the wagon, 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 85 

and drive hiiii very carefully on level ground for a few 
minutes, for the first few times avoiding backing and 
turning if possible, being careful for a few days to give 
only short drives ; after which three miles and back will 
do no harm, gradually toughening the colt to do your 
work. 

Our method, however, and the only one which can 
be safely used, is to hitch the colt up alongside of a 
broke horse, putting him on the off-side. There are 
several reasons for hitching on the off-side ; one or two 
will suffice. It is usual to jump from a wagon on the 
near-side ; and in this act, if any accident shall happen, 
such as yourself falling down, or any other movement to 
alarm the horse, he may start, and if he were on the 
near-side he would wheel around from you, and per- 
haps clo damage before you got within reach; while if 
he was on the off-side, he would, if frightened, wheel 
toicards you, the broke horse being likely to remain 
steady. Another reason is, that the operations with 
the colt have thus far mainly been upon the near-side, 
and it will not seem quite so strange to him to have a 
horse on that side. 

The harness being on both horses, (quite loosely on 
the colt,) with long inside lines, you will buckle a short 
strap around the near hoof of the colt just below the 
fetlock, with an inch ring slipped on the strap before 
budding and left there. Tie a long line or rope to the 
ring, pass it under the girth of the colt, bringing it up 
on the outside of his trace, and holding it with the lines 



36 TRAINING OF H0ESE3. 

in vour hands. You will then drive the team about ; as 
you start them, promptly and decidedly using such word 
as you choose, never varying from the same word, fre- 
quently jDulling up the lines and saying " Whoa !" at the 
same time drawing up on the line attached to the foot, 
until the foot is lifted from the ground and held there, 
leaving the colt standing on three legs in spite of his 
struggles. After a few times doing this, you may un- 
harness him, as that is sufficient for this lesson. When 
ready to hitch up, which you may now do at your lei- 
sure, you will do as before, and after a little driving, 
hitch the team to the wagon and get in. You now 
have the foot-strap alluded to, (see Figure 3,) passing 
from your hand between the j^ole and the colt's near 
trace, under this girth and fastened to the near foot. 
You may now start up slowly, stopping the team once 
or twice while on a walk, saying " Whoa !" as before, and 
pulling up the foot-strap. You will now readily per- 
ceive that you have perfect control over the colt's move- 
ments, Avhether on a walk or run, and Avithout any dan- 
ger to the colt. The colt will not stumble, strange as it 
may appear, it being almost impossible foi' him to fall by 
this means while in motion. An experience with upward 
of one thousand colts warrants us in this statement. 
Short and lively drives are what you now want until 
the colt becomes wonted and obeys the rein and word 
" whoa." You may then change sides with him, to teach 
the other side of him^ of course changing the foot-strap 
%o the inside each time. When he hafs by this means be- 



•-■• 

o 

CO 




88 TRAINING OF EOKSES. 

come accustomed to being handled freely, you may then 
hitch him up single or double, as you choose, for he is 
now ready to drive. 

TEACHING THE COLT TO BACK. 

This should not be attempted until the colt has been 
driven at least eight to ten days, nor until the habit of 
readily stopping, starting, driving and obeying the reins 
has been formed. Since we have adopted this rule, no 
colt under our training has ever been known to balk, 
throw himself down in harness, run into the fence, or 
refuse to stand while the driver is getting into the car- 
riage. When sufficient time has elapsed to warrant you 
in undertaking to teach him to back, you will take a 
common bridle, or a bitting-bridle is best, and begin by 
taking hold of the side-reins, standing in front of the 
colt, and gently pushing backward, saying " Back ! " at 
the time he steps back. This you will repeat until he 
readily takes two or three steps backward, when you 
will release him for the present. At the next trial you 
may put on the reins and take your position behind 
him, passing the reins through the side-loops of the 
girth, or, if obliged to use a harness, through the thill- 
straps, holding the reins well down by his side to pre- 
vent him from turning round and facing you. Have him 
loosely checked. As you step behind him, pull gently 
on the reins, and as he stejDS backward say " Back !" and 
immediately slacken the lines. A half an hour's exer- 
cise is usually sufficient at a time, repeating the opera- 
tion until he backs readily. It is well to give him one 



TRAINING OP HOESES. 89 

or two sharj), steady pulls, for eight or ten feet back- 
ward just before leaving him each time. He is now 
ready to be hitched up as you usually hitch up your 
horses, and ready to form the habit of backing to wagon 
at the word. Be careful for the first few times not to 
ask him to back with a load, each time having the wag- 
on in a favorable position, such as descending ground, 
when the attempt is made. By using this caution the 
colt will soon learn to be handy, and practice will ena- 
ble him to be perfect. Under all circumstances in hand- 
ling the colt, ^:>re5er?;e your temper^ no matter how much 
inconvenienced ; for if you lose control of yourself, you 
will be cure to lose control of your charge. The colt 
is to be governed by kindness and determination, not by 
abuse and tyranny. 

BIDING THE COLT. 

This should not be done until he is well bridle-broke. 
Begin the lesson in the barn or yard. Place on him a 
common riding-bridle, without girth or martingale. 
Tie the bridle-reins together on top of the neck, tight 
enough to check him a very little. Stand on the near- 
side near the shoulder; throw a webbing or tie-stra]3 
across the withers, near where the reins lie. Quietly 
reach under in front and caress the fore-legs, and as 
soon as he is sufficiently calmed, tie the webbing or 
strap to the oif-side foot, just below the fetlock. If he 
is restive, and prevents you from tying it, or shows 
signs of striking or kicking, take him by the head and 




o 
t-l 

fcO 
P4 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 41 

tail, the left hand well up to the head, and whirl him 
around two or three times, {see Figure 4,) and while 
he is disconcerted by this movement, stoop and tie the 
strap. Then take hold of the near rein within about 
four inches of the head, and with the right hand draw 
up on the strap so as to pull the foot clear from the 
ground, at the same time pulling on the rein toward 
you quite firmly, until he has made two or three hops 
on three legs. The points to be gained by this are, 
first, you teach the colt that he is not to be hurt and 
that he can not get away. This tends to prevent his 
" plunging " when you afterward attempt to ride him ; 
second, by pulling the strap across the back, it accus- 
toms him to bear a weight upon the back ; third, it pre- 
vents him from throwing himself over backward; 
fourth, it accomplishes your desire in a safer and quicker 
way than any other knoAvn. Now take a shorter hold 
on the web or strap, with the foot held up, passing your 
right arm well over his back, with the left hand hold of 
the near rein and mane near the withers, and then make 
the motion of mounting. Do this a few times until the 
colt becomes accustomed to the new positions and move- 
ments. Then gently mount him, the foot being still held 
up. {See Figure 5.) Now let down the foot and start 
him along. If he shows signs of being restive or at- 
tempting to throw you, pull up the foot and caress him. 
He will not fall down while the foot is up, as it might 
be supposed he would. Keep well hold of the foot- 
strap, untie the knot in the reins, and, letting down the 




Figure 5. 



TRAINING OF HOKSES. 43 

foot, commence turning him from side to side and urg- 
ing him forward. If he is unwilling to start, take a 
short bow-top whip or switch, holding it in the same 
hand with which you hold the foot-strap, and gently 
touch him wdth it on the off hind-leg, just back of the 
stifle, gradually increasing the blows until he starts, at 
the same time loosening the reins. In turning him, use 
caution and do not pull upon but one rein at a time, for the 
reason that, if you pull upon both, the colt wall be apt to 
run backward, sideways, and otherwise act aw^kwardly. 
Do not ride him at a distance the first time. This les- 
son with the foot-strap should be repeated three or four 
times, until the colt is accustomed to your presence on 
his back, and your legs against his side. Having never 
been thrown from a colt since we adopted this plan, w^e 
firmly believe that no better method of training a colt to 
ride is known. We deem the old and tedious process of 
pelting and coaxing, using blocks, etc., to be entirely 
useless, as it will be seen at a glance that by this process 
we run no risk of injury to ourselves or the animal, and 
at the same time readily obtain entire submission to our 
control. 

TO MOUNT THE OOLT. 

Take hold of the mane with your left hand, placing 
the right hand upon the back ; then springing lightly, 
raise yourself upon your wrists until your middle reaches 
the height of the horse's withers, when as you lean over 
the horse, with a quick spring you throw your weight 
upon your wrists, and pulling strongly with your arms 



44 TRAINING OF HOUSES. 

and with a quick spring you throw your right leg over 
the crouper, and are mounted. 

THE HABITS OF THE COLT. 

The habits of the colt may be classified under two 
heads : 

First. — Habits acquired through imjDroper training, or 
bad and careless management after training. A colt 
which has been correctly trained, if watched carefully 
and promptly checked at each indication of bad habits, 
will in a short time become settled and fixed in the right 
way, and will never, except by extraordinary or willful 
means, become a bad horse. A colt, however, which is 
improperly trained is more than likely to acquire bad 
habits, and it is to the cure of these which the rules we 
give will call your attention. 

Second. — Habits which are bred. The class of habits 
to which we allude under this head have for a number 
of years occupied om' thoughtful attention, and though 
we have never seen or heard them set forth as import- 
ant, yet in our opinion a volume might be written upon 
the subject, replete with facts and suggestions, every 
one of which would be of immense value to the breeders 
of horses. As this work, however, is devoted more ex- 
clusively to the training of the animal, and fitting him 
for use, we shall content ourselves by briefly giving our 
reasons for our theory, and making a few pertinent sug- 
gestions upon the subject. Close reasoning, and analogy 
founded upon observation, have taught us that, as the 
colt is quite apt to inherit the traits of the dam or sire, 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 



45 



or both, the same rule applies with equal force to the 
habits and dispositions. It is a well-settled fact that 
certain traits and peculiarities belong to certain breeds 
of horses, and, if the blood is not crossed, will be in- 
herited from generation to generation. Our application 
of this established rule is, that the same will apply to 
habits. We might extend our views upon this subject, 
and describe how inevitably the laws of nature entail 
diseases known to horse-flesh, and give valuable hints 
upon the danger of breeding from decrepid or unsound 
stock, were it within the scope of our present subject— 
the training of colts. In reference to the effect of breed- 
ing upon the habits of the colt, we can not, perhaps, 
better explain our meaning than by the following illus- 
tration : Suppose you have a colt which, before he has 
ever had an opportunity to acquire bad habits, should 
show signs of balking, biting, or kicking. You say, 
"How came he by it ? He has had no chance to learn 
it." If you will look back to the character of the mare, 
(possibly the stallion, but oftener the mare,) you will be 
almost certain to find that she w^as either a balking, bit- 
ing, or kicking beast ; and by a nearly unerring law you 
may trace the connection between the two, and charge 
the bad habit of the colt to the account of one or both 
of his progenitors. Another point in our theory is 
aptly explained by the following : Briskly (not roughly) 
exercise your mare with foal— frequently walk her as 
rapidly as her gait will allow, and you will have a brisk, 
fast-walking colt ; on the contrary, allow her to be stupid 



46 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

and lazy, and you need not wonder if her colt is equally 
so. The ready apiDlication of this rule to all habits of 
the mare will be at once perceived, and needs no further 
argument. There are exceptions to all these general 
rules, the colt occasionally giving no evidence of his 
lineage, or extending it back one or more generations ; 
but it has proven itself sufficiently clear to our observa- 
tion to warrant us in setting it forth as a fact, that much 
depends, not only upon the constitution and habits gen- 
erally of the progenitors of the colt, but particularly 
upon the habits of the mare lohile icith foal. We there- 
fore advise precaution in advance, as a preventive of 
trouble with your animal in after-years. 

We calculate that a colt, educated under our system, 
as thus far set forth, has been trained out of these bred 
habits, if he ever possessed them. What we now intend 
is to give rules for training him out of such as have not 
already been eradicated by proper training, as Avell as 
to break him of such as he may have acquired through 

mismanagement. 

There is much danger accompanying the act of at- 
tempting to break bad colts, unless you can proceed 
upon safe rules. Those which we are about to give we 
consider certain to not only effect the object, but also to 
insure safety of life or limb both to the operator and the 
animal. If, however, you vary from them, and set up 
plans for yourself, the responsibility is yours. 

In carrying out our system in regard to the breaking 
of the colt (as well as the maturer horse) of bad habits, 



TRAINING OF HOKSES. 47 

without incurring danger, we are frequently compelled 
to use certain implements ; and before proceeding with 
our lessons, we will give a detailed description of each 
of these articles. We commence with 

THE YANKEE BRIDLE. 

This consists of a common check joint-bit, with rings 
at each end, but no bars ; the shorter the bit is, the bet- 
ter. Put one of the rings of the bit in a vice, and press 
it flatwise until a ring of the same size will slip over 
and on the bit. Slip two iron, steel, or composition 
rings of about the same size on the bit ; turn the flat- 
tened ring half around, put it again in the vice, and re- 
store it to its round form. This forms a bit with two 
rings loose upon the mouth-piece. {See Figure 6.) At- 
tach the bit to a common bridle in the usual manner. 
As you place the bit in the mouth of the horse, have the 
loose rings one on each side of the mouth. Fasten a 
strap to one of the loose rings, bring it over across the 
nose just above the nostril, and fasten it to the other 
loose ring, drawing it moderately ti^ht. Attach a strap 
to the brow-band, bring it down the centre of the face, 
and attach it to the straps over the nose in such a man- 
ner as to prevent its slipping down. Take a piece of 
stout cotton clothes-line rope, about eight feet in length ; 
tie one end to the near-side ring of the bit, pass the other 
end under the jaw through the ofi'-side ring of the bit- 
then bring the rope over the neck from the off-side to 
the near-side, placing it about where the collar usually 



»=El I 



O 




50 TBAINING OF H0ESE3. 

comes ; pass it clown the near-side, and pass it through ^ 
over that j^ortion of the rope which is between the two 
bit-rings under the jaw. ISTow, as you tighten upon the 
YQ-pe, {see Figure 7,) you will perceive that the tendency 
of the two riugs which are attached to the strap over 
the nose and play loosely upon the bit, is toward the 
centre or joint of the bit, and that they will consequently 
press tightly upon the cheek. The sensation which this 
pressure occasions, you may illustrate by pressing in- 
wardly ujjon your own cheeks with your mouth partially 
opened. The effect uf)on a horse is instantaneous and 
irresistible. We have spent years of careful study in 
endeavoring by experiment to ascertain the best method 
of governing a horse's mouth without injury to the 
animal. This method is the result of our patient labors. 
It can not injure a horse, and it is a safe and reliable 
controlling power. 

THE LOIfG FOOT-STRAP. 

Take a soft leather strap, an inch and a half wide and 
ten inches long, with the inside edges shaved thin, to 
avoid chafing. Then take a strap of firm leather, fifteen 
inches long and one inch wide ; on one end place a buckle 
and loop, with a lap of two inches on the under side ; on 
the other end punch holes for the buckle-tongue ; place 
the last-named strap on the outside of the wider strap, 
in the centre, with one end extending an inch beyond 
the buckle ; then stitch the whole together, commencing 
at the buckle and stitching two inches, having the loop 



TRAINING OF HOESES. 51 

pretty close to the buckle ; then slip an inch and a half 
ring, or D, over the outer strap, close up to the stitch- 
ing ; then j^roceed with the stitching for five inches, and 
close up. This finishes the strap, which is calculated to 
buckle around the fore-foot just below the fetlock. A 
strap or webbing, to tie in the ring, fifteen feet in length, 
completes the long foot-strap, which is used for driving 
in harness. 

THE SHOUT FOOT-STKAP. 

This is simply a strap or webbing about ten feet in 
length. 

THE SAFETY SHAFTS. 

For these procure three poles or scantling, about three 
or four inches through and twelve feet in length, of 
tough, stifi" wood. Lay two of them down about two 
feet apart at one end, and twelve feet apart at the other 
end. Lay the other stick upon the two first poles, across 
the wider end, near enough to the end to allow about 
three inches of the top pole to project over on each side ; 
bore holes through, and with an iron bolt or hard-wood 
peg fasten it strongly to the other two sticks, to form a 
cross-bar. Take a piece of w^agon-tire iron about three 
feet long, bent in the form of a breast-collar, and rounded 
on the inside ; drill two holes in each end, through which 
firmly rivet the iron to the inside of the two poles, at 
the end where they are the nearest together. Just for- 
ward of the place where the irons are riveted on, bore 
holes through the poles, or drive in staples, so that a 
strap or rope may be attached, to go over the horse's 



62 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

neck to hold up the shafts. At the back end of each of 
the two poles affix a " dog," or piece of iron pointed and 
about four inches long, extending downward, so made 
as to prevent the shafts being pushed backward, but 
allowing them to be draw^n forward. 

The "Yankee Bridle," "Foot-Straps" and "Safety 
Shafts," are the only implements now necessary to men- 
tion. All others required are such as are in ordinary 
use, as wagons, harness, whip, etc. 

Having explained the nature and construction of these 
implements, we proceed with our lessons upon the habits 
of the coltj commencing with 

HABITS OF COLT IN THE STABLE. 

Moiling or Getting Cast. — If the colt is in the habit 
of rolling or getting cast, tie his halter at a sufficient 
length to allow him to just reach his nose to the floor ; 
tie a strap or rope to the head-stall just back of the ears ; 
tie the other end to a staple in the flooring overhead, 
about a foot back from the front of the manger. Have 
the strap or rope of sufficient length to allow the colt to 
lie down, but not long enough to allow him to lay his 
head sideways upon the floor. He will not attempt to roll 
over while the top of his head is held up. This is perfectly 
safe, and, if persisted in, it will eventually cure the colt. 

Croioding or Cringing. — If the colt crowds or cringes 
upon your entering the stall, you will, as you enter, 
gently caress him, proceeding quietly to assure him that 
he is not to be hurt, avoiding loud or sharp words, and 
feeding him from your hand. If a few attempts do not 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 53 

improve him, take a long bow-top whip or short fishing- 
pole, and standing out of reach of being kicked, place it 
by his side and touch him lightly across the fore-shoul- 
der, each time you touch him saying firmly, "Stand 
around !" being very careful not to strike him so as to 
hurt him, nor to touch him near the flank. By touching 
him on the fore-shoulder and avoiding the flank, you 
learn liim to stand around, and do not excite him to 
kick. By not striking him to hurt, you teach him that 
lie is not to be hurt, and that there is nothing at which 
he need be frightened. Do not get excited yourself, but 
coolly proceed with the lesson, being sure to stop your 
whip whenever he shows signs of standing around. 

Pulling at the Halter. — If the colt pulls at the halter 
upon your entering the stall by liis side, or by being 
frightened at hay thrown down the rack, or from otlier 
exciting causes, place on him a strong halter, wdth a 
long halter-stale, (the halter not fitting so snugly as to 
be liable to hurt,) and put on him a girth ; lead the colt 
into the stall and pass the halter-stale through the ring 
or place of tying, seeing that it will slip readily back 
and forth ; then pass it under the girth, between the fore- 
legs, and tie it to the near hind-foot just below the fet- 
lock, leaving him about three feet play of halter-stale, at 
the manger. Now carefully put your hay in the rack. 
If he pulls, he will, of course, lift his hind-leg, which 
will immediately call his attention to that quarter, and 
he will lose the fear of being hurt by the hay coming- 
down. If you prefer, you may enter the stall ; but as 



54 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

he pulls, get out of tlie way by climbing into the man- 
ger, as he will plunge considerably. When he comes 
up to the manger, as he will, caress him and speak kindly. 
If he is very confirmed in the habit, it may take three or 
four days to eradicate it. 

HABITS IN HABNESS. 

Putting on Harness. — If the colt is shy about allow- 
ing you to put on the harness, stepping away from you 
and refusing to stand, upon backing him out of the stall 
first put on the bridle. If you fear his getting from you 
while attempting to bridle him, put the bridle on over 
the halter. Now unbuckle the head-stall of the halter 
and allow it to drop oif, still holding the halter-stale in 
your right hand; with the left hand now pull the nose- 
piece over the nose and pass it into the colt's mouth, 
and as you pull upon the halter-stale, the nose-piece 
passes around the bridle-bit and the halter comes off. 
If it is a rope halter, you proceed in the same manner, 
except that you pull that portion which lies back of the 
ears over in front, and pass it down through the mouth 
with the nose-piece. ISTow lead him to the place on the 
barn floor where you wish him to stand Avhile being 
harnessed. Quietly take down your harness from the 
pegs. If the colt moves from his position, lay down 
your harness and lead him back quickly and firmly to 
the same position, not s^Dcaking to him until you get 
him in his place, when you will promptly and decidedly 
say, " Whoa !" not speaking too loud^ and being careful, 



TRAINING OF HOESES. 65 

in pulling him around, not to hurt him — your object 
being to teach him to stand in the j)^ace in which you 
put him. You will, each time that he ste23s out of it, lay 
down your harness and put him back in the same man- 
ner, using the word " whoa " each time that you get 
him there; and as he stands still, caress him about the 
face and neck. Now quietly take up your harness and 
reach it tow^ard his side. If he is still restive, reach it 
around toward his nose and allow him to examine it ; 
then slowly proceed to put on the harness, not being too 
anxious nor in too much haste. This operation frequently 
requires patience and perseverance, sometimes occupy- 
ing half an hour. When the harness is well on, take it 
off, and repeat the process until the colt will allow you 
to put it on without flinching. You will find it neces- 
sary to give your whole attention to teaching this les- 
son, as you must watch every attempt of the colt to step 
away, and act promptly, so as to learn him that he is not 
to step. You also familiarize him with the use of the 
word " whoa." This Avill be valuable if not trifled 
away by using the word needlessly. 

Stubborn and Refusing to Rein. — If a colt is stub- 
born and refuses to be guided by the reins, you will 
now use the '' Yankee Bridle." When prepared, step 
to one side of the colt, take hold of the " Bridle " about 
two feet from the head, and give him tvv^o or three 
sharp, short pulls sideways, always when pulling instant- 
ly slackening your hold ; then go to the other side and 
pull him in that direction ; now alternating sides at each 



56 TRAINING OP HORSES. 

pull, doing it as rapidly as possible. {See Figure 7.) As 
soon as he yields promptly to your pulling straight 
ahead as well as sideways, attach to the bit-rings a com- 
mon bridle-rein, without martingales, still keeping on 
the " Yankee Bridle," and mount him ; ride him about, 
reining him occasionally, riding him up to the particular 
places, if any, where he is most inclined to act willfnl ; 
and if he refuses to yield ready obedience to the reins, 
dismount and pull as before, quickly and sharply, with the 
" Yankee Bridle." By this means he will soon be ready 
to drive up to or by tli/e place you desire. Now put on 
the harness, with the rope of the " Yankee Bridle" lying 
loosely across the neck. Take the lines and drive him, 
and if he is again stubborn and sheers off one side, with 
the "Yankee Bridle" pull him back where he belongs. 
This usually takes from three to four lessons, given once 
a day. Remember and have your colt well fed and 
carefully groomed, as a colt with this habit is more 
likely at times to have low animal spirits, and the object 
should be to increase them. Be 23atient. It is not with- 
in human means to suddenly teach the colt what is re- 
quired of him, " Horse- T«??2er5" to the contrary notwith- 
standing. Having taught the colt to behave in this 
particular, you must, when afterward driving him to 
wagon, at each time there is an appearance of a renewal 
of the habit, be gentle, and as he comes up to the places 
which excite the habit, f ivor him rather than urge him. 
You thereby prevent the forming of other bad habits 
grooving out of this, such as balking, etc. 



TSAIxNIXG OF HORSES. 57 

Kichmg in DouUe Harness. — A very disagreeable and 
contemptibly mean habit — one quite likely to be bred, 
but, if not, sure to have been caused by mismanagement 
— ^is that of crowding against the pole, and frisking and 
kicking while in double harness. To break him of this 
habit, and in the act of breaking him to form other 
habits which are of value, take the colt into the barn or 
yard, and apply the "Yankee Bridle." Step in front of 
him and pull gently toward you, and as he yields his 
head to the pressure, let up, (never letting up while he 
is resisting,) repeating two or three times ; then com- 
mence pulling with an upward pull, raising the head, 
increasing the force of the motion gradually. Remem- 
ber this is one of the most powerful means of control 
ever placed in a horse's mouth. Repeat until you have 
your colt ready to be checked up with the check exer- 
cising a controlling influence. This usually takes one 
or two days, not keeping the "Yankee Bridle" on more 
than five minutes at a time, applying it as often as conve- 
nient. Xow put on the harness, checking him up as 
tight as he will bear, and apply the " long foot-strap," 
fastening it to the near fore-foot, bringing it up under the 
girth; take hold of the reins and foot-strap, and start 
him along, pulling up the foot frequently and stopping 
him, saying, " Whoa !" as you pull up, turning him occa- 
sionally about ; then change sides with the strap and 
repeat the operation. Take the long strap off" the foot, 
tie it round the neck and pass it along the near-side of 
him and put it between his hind-legs, holding the near 



58 TKAmiNG OF IIOKSES. 

f-rc-foot in your left hand to avoid being hurt. Drop 
the fore-foot and bring the strap back around the near 
hind-leg, close up to the bod}^, on the near-side, and 
pass it through the part tied around the neck, and com- 
mence drawing this up. He Avill probably cringe and 
be frightened ; keep hold of the bridle well up to the 
head, with your left hand. Keep tightening the strap 
until he allows you to pull up his hind-leg without strug- 
gling ; then change to the other hind-foot, repeating the 
same process. This should be repeated two or three 
times if he is very spiteful. When completed, the colt 
is then ready to hitch up with another horse. Hitch 
him up on the side on which he is in the habit of kicking, 
with the " long strap" around the inside foot and held 
with the reins. Walk him along, driving straight ahead, 
pulling up the foot and stopping him occasionally. Then 
begin turning him, doing it quickly, and managing to 
have the pole hit him, at the same time pulling up on 
the foot, but compelling him to go around. If afraid of 
the trace, change sides with the stra^). This should be 
kept up for about ten minutes at a time. If the habit 
should continue, rej^eat this a few times, when he will re- 
cover from it. 

Running and Kicking at J)ogs, etc. — A colt in the 
habit of running and kicking at dogs or other animals, 
or constantly on the look-out for such objects, may be 
broke nof those habits by applying the "Yankee Bridle;" 
giving him two or three sharp pulls ; then harness him 
up with another horse, (never hitching him up single for 



TKAINING OF nOESES. 69 

this lesson,) and put on the "long foot-strap." Drive 
him lip to the dog, or other object, having a person 
holding a dog until he comes near, the dog being tied 
so that he can not escape, and, as the colt comes near, 
letting go of the dog and causing him to flounce about 
in struggles to get av/ay ; pull up on the " foot-strap," {see 
Figure 8,) and cautiously compel the colt to approach 
the object of his fear, and gradually impress upon him 
that the movements of the dog do him no harm. Your 
desire being to teach him that there is nothing which 
need to frighten him, and also to obtain entire submis- 
sion, you will repeat the process until the object is ac- 
complished. It will be necessary to drive him several 
times with the webbings on, to be certain that the cure 
is effected. 

Pasture Habits. — Yery important habits of the colt in 
the pasture, such as jumping, running, etc., may be ef- 
fectually prevented by the following means : Take an 
old strap halter with a fore-piece, {old because it will not 
shrink,) without the halter-stale, fit it closely to the 
head, leaving the nose-piece loose enough to allow for a 
free movement of the jaws ; take a piece of common 
medium harness leather, about ten inches square ; on 
two sides fasten a stout piece of wire six inches in 
length, placing it so that the ends are equally distant 
from the corners of the leather ; bend the wires in a 
8emi-circular form ; punch holes in each corner of the 
leather and tie in leather strings ; place this leather 
upon the colt's face, the semi-circles up and directly in 



TRAINnfG OF HOESES. 61 

front of the eyes, tying the strings to the ends of the 
fore-piece, near the rosette, and to the rings at the end of 
the nose-piece, or to the sides of the halter. This gives 
him jDlenty of liberty to look sideways, but he can not 
look ahead, and so has no confidence to either jump or 
run, and will do neither. This leather is invaluable to 
those having the care of young stallions, or colts to be 
trained for trotters.* For instance, if the stallion sees 
a horse in the road and starts for him, he will lose sight 
of him the moment he turns to start in that direction, 
and of course goes no further ; if to be trained for a 
trotter, by the use of this leather he never runs, giving 
a better opportunity for the walking and trotting mus- 
cles to be developed. 

Another. — Tie a strap to the near fore-foot below the 
fetlock, pass it up under a surcingle around the body, and 
tie the other end to the near hind-foot above the fetlock. 
You will see that, when he attempts to jump a fence, the 
fore-foot is drawn up under him, and as he springs to leave 
the ground the hind-foot will be pulled up, and he will 
inevitably remain in the lot. The value of this plan is 
that it will in most instances eventually cure a horse of 
the habit, so as to render the strap unnecessary. 

A caution is suggested as a preventive to this habit. 
In transferring horses from one place to another, they 
should not be put in a pasture at once, especially if they 
have been in the habit of having company which they 
leave behind. The affection of the animal for his mates 
will induce the attempt to rejoin them, and he may 



62 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

thereby form the habit. ISTo horse ever jumped a fence 
for better food, unless he had first formed the habit 
from other causes. 

There is no animal known whose love of home, or af- 
fection for his kind or acquaintance, is as strongly devel- 
oped as in the horse. It is a marked characteristic in 
this animal, and is one of his strongest impelling mo- 
tives. If a horse, recently removed from a neighbor's, 
escapes your possession, you instinctively look for him 
at the place from which he came, and you usually find 
him there. Therefore give him no opportunity to es- 
cape, until the impression is in a measure forgotten by 
the lapse of time. There are times when the desire of 
the animal for company is greater than at others. By 
taking him up and securing him at these times, he has 
no opportunity of forming this unpleasant habit, where- 
as if then allowed to run in the pastures, some exciting- 
cause may impel him to jump, and once he finds he can 
escape confinement by jumping, he is quite apt to re- 
peat it Avithout any particular cause. 

This concludes our account of the habits of the colt 
and their treatment. Of course we have not spoke-ii 
specifically of all the minor habits, but in the main ones 
which we have given, there are a sufiicient number of 
rules laid down to guide the sensible operator to the 
proper remedy for such as are not named. Remember 
that the colt is beino; cured of habits which are either 
bred or are caused by 7iervoiis fear^ and not, as a gen- 
eral thing, the result of willfulness on his part. 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 63 

SHOEING THE COLT. 

To prepare a colt for shoeing the first time, tie the 
" long foot-strap" (see Index) around the neck, pass it 
along the near side, between the hind-legs, and bringing 
it around the near hind-leg close up to the body, pass it 
under the strap around the neck ; then draw upon the 
strap, holding him meanwhile by the bridle ; the colt 
will probably be nervous at the pull, and you will loosen 
it and caress him over the face and neck, gradually 
tightening at each successive pull, using no w^ords but 
gentle ones, and not saying " Whoa !" When he has be- 
come accustomed to it, lower the strap to a point just 
above the hock, and gradually pull upon the strap until 
you lift the leg, at the same time pulling upon the bridle 
with a side or back pull to prevent his stepping forward. 
When you have thus succeeded in easily lifting the leg 
pretty well up, you will find that you can take it up 
with your hand and hold it. The same process must of 
course be gone through with on the other leg, and after 
about ten lessons your colt is ready to go to the blacksmith. 
The rule has usually been to take the colt to the black- 
smith first, but he is more than apt to get bad habits by 
being forced into position to be shod, and probably gets 
pounded to his injury if the blacksmith's stock of pa- 
tience is not very large. Shoeing should always be 
done as the feet grow tender, and, if quite young, shoe 
very often. 

HINTS ON THE COLT. 

In teaching the colt icords, always accompany the 



64 TRAINING OF HOESES. 

words with an explanatory act — something which will 
call his attention to the connection between the word 
and the act; for instance, in saying "Whoa!" always 
pull upon the reins or foot-strap. JSFever use words, either 
in or out of the barn, except for 2^ purpose. Such words 
as " Stand around !" " Take care !" etc., are proper to be 
used when occasion requires, but you should not say 
"Whoa!" when you mean "Take care!" in approaching 
the colt, nor " Whoa, back !" when you mean either one 
or the other. It is well known that it is difficult for a 
person to control himself in this particular. We there- 
fore strongly impress its importance upon those having 
to deal with colts. 

Always use a short joint-bit with long bars on the 
colt, on account of teaching him the right place for the 
tongue, etc. 

Kickers in harness should always be checked 
high. 

The colt should be caught with your hands and held 
at two days old, and tamed before haltering ; haltered 
and taught to lead at between two or three months of 
age; broke to harness from two to three years of age ; 
broke to ride at three years old ; and not to be worked 
until five, nor hard-worked until seven years old. A 
mare may be worked one year younger. 

The whip should be feared rather than felt. When- 
ever used it should be accompanied with the proper 
words, and its meaning understood ; use the whip only 
to m^wvQ pro7nptness — not to teach. 



EDUOATIOI^ OF THE HOESE. 



In treating upon this subject we are well aware ol the 
difficulties under which we labor. We are conscious of 
the fact that we are quite apt to excite the prejudices of 
men who, having managed horses to a considerable ex- 
tent, and having ways of their own with which they are 
satisfied, are likely to cry " humbug " to any idea which 
to them is new and strange. We are also aware that 
there already exists in the minds of many intelligent 
persons a settled opposition to all professionals whose 
business is pretending to improve the Horse — an oppo- 
sition arising from the many failures among that class, 
and the consequent damage done to their animals by 
being handled by such men, or under their instructions. 
We have no reason to expect that we can obliterate 
these prejudices entirely, but we have faith to believe 
that if we are given a careful hearing, and our advice 
put into practice, we shall do much to improve the opin- 
ions of the people upon the subject of the " Education 
of the Horse.'''* We do not expect to improA'e their 
opinion of " Horse- Tmningy It may be of some service, 



CG TRAIA^ING OF HOBSES. 

but, ill common with thousands of others, we fail to see 
it. Tlie distinction between taming and educating is 
clear and positive, and can not be gainsaid by even the 
most careless observer. We think we have made this 
sufficiently clear in previous pages, but desire to impress 
the point, as it is on account of the " HoY&Q-Tame^^s " that 
the existing prejudices have mainly arisen. 

We have devoted our lives to the investigation and 
study of this subject, and whether our efforts have been 
of any value to the public or not, we are certain of 
having had a very extensive experience with horses. 
We do not by any means claim to be infallible, but we 
speak of this to satisfy the public that ours is no system 
picked up in a day, but that it is the result of incessant 
labor for years. Of one thing we ca7i assure the public, 
that, whether the ideas we advance are original with 
ourselves or whetlier they are ideas of others adapted to 
our system, neither are recommended without first hav- 
ino- been put thoroughly to the test by actual personal 
experience. We advise no plan which we have not suc- 
cessfully tried, and found to be valuable. 

There is a certain moral responsibility resting upon 
the author of works of this nature, w^hich is emban-as- 
sino- to a hieh deg-ree. The rules which he sets forth are 
sometimes deviated from w^ithout the knowledge of the 
operator himself— either from his not clearly under- 
standing the meaning, or from his having too loosely 
scanned the printed instructions — and the desired result 
is not reached. This leads to a distrust of the system. 



TRAINIXG OF HORSES. 67 

Occasionally, too, circumstances may arise in the hand- 
ling of the horse which no foresight could have provided 
against, and if the operator does not find in the book 
a remedy for his difficulty he lays it aside in disgust. 
Nevertheless we submit our work, confident of being 
able to be of some public service. 

We have heretofore, in this volume, treated almost 
exclusively upon the education of the colt and the treat- 
ment of his habits. We now come to speak of a subject 
which in almost all its aspects needs to be treated from 
an entirely difierent stand-point. The colt is impelled 
to his awkwardness and bad habits by natural impulses 
of timidity and consequent fear, while the mature horse 
is actuated more by a strong sell-will, his habits being 
formed through ignorance or negligence of his keeper ; 
therefore the rules which apply to the education and 
treatment of the colt are not, in all instances, the rules 
necessary to be observed in the education and treat- 
ment of the horse. Such governing rules, however, as 
being honest with the animal, exercising hinchiess, for- 
bearance, firmness, and perseverance, apply in both cases. 

In the educatio7i of the pleasure-horse there are many 
points of value to which allusion might be made, which 
the limits of this work will not permit. We shall, how- 
ever, touch upon those of the most importance in every- 
day use. Bear in mind that, to make the lessons which 
we are about to give effectual, it will be necessary to 
give one or two lessons each day, for a few days, until 
the habit of obedience is confirmed. 



68 TRAINING OF HOESES. 

TO CAUSE THE HOBSE TO FOLLOW YOU. 

To cause liim to follow you while his head is confined 
with a bridle or halter, put on the " Yankee Bridle," {see 
Figure 7,) take hold about two feet from the head, give 
him a few short, quick side pulls to the right and left, 
{see Figure 7,) then taking quickly hold of the rope far- 
ther toward the end, as you step back say decidedly, 
" Come here, sir !" If he comes forward, caress him ; if 
he does not come, give him a pull with a sideways ten- 
dency, and repeat the attempt to have him come forward, 
until he does come ; then start off either to the right or 
left, with the rope slackened ; if he does not follow you, 
give him more pulls sideways, and try him again. With 
an ordinary horse, you can teach the lesson in ten min- 
utes, so as to be followed by him when you are near the 
head. Step partially behind him, laying the rope along 
his back, and say, " Come here, sir !" He will not be 
likely to do it, because he has only been taught to go 
forward at the words. To teach him to follow^ you in 
this direction, you will then chirrup to start him, repeat- 
ing the words. If he comes, caress him ; if he does not 
come, or moves in the wrong direction, pull upon the 
" Bridle," caressing him as he obeys. The same rule 
will apply to any direction in which you wish him to 
follow you. It is quite necessary to teach the horse this 
habit, as it is the foimdation of many others, and is one 
of the most valuable which the horse can possess. 

To teach him, for your amusement, to follow you 
when entirely loose, put on the near fore-foot the long 



TRAINING OF HOUSES. 69 

foot-strap, and place on him a girth ; pass the strap 
under the girth, and, holding the end in your hand, step 
away from him ; then step toward him, and if he at- 
tempts to step away from you, pull up on the strap and 
say, " Whoa !" If he stops, step up and caress him ; re- 
peat until he will allow you to step up to him without 
moving away. Now take a short blunt whip in your 
right hand, and the strap in your left, standing by his 
side ; pass your right arm over the withers and gently 
touch him on the oif-side of the head ; if he starts to 
move off, pull up on the strap and say, " Whoa !" When 
he turns his head, caress him, gradually with the whip 
forcing him to turn his head around toward you ; w^hen 
he will do this every time you put the whip over, you 
may remove the foot-strap, and practice him in the lesson 
until he will come to you every time you lay the whip 
across his neck; then put on the foot-strap again, put 
your whip in the same position and hit him in the same 
place quite hard, at the same time saying, " Come here, 
sir !" After a little he will be very prompt ; then place him 
in a corner and step off at a distance of eight or ten feet 
and say, " Come here, sir !" If he comes, caress him ; if 
he does not come, hit him gently on the breast with a 
long whip ; he will perhaps struggle to get away, and if 
he attempts to get out of the corner, pull upon the strap. 
When he faces you, step up to him and caress him, j^lac- 
ing him back in the corner, and repeat ; if he finally 
shows a disposition to follow, step back coaxingly, and 
when he stops, caress him ; at each further repetition use 



70 TRAINING OF HOUSES. 

the words, "Come here, sir !" at each motion of the whip ; 
in this way he will soon learn to follow you at the word, 
if you have a whip in your hand. Don't take him out 
of doors to j^ractice until he is quite perfect, and then 
beginning in small yards and alone. 

TO ADD STYLE. 

Take a common three-strand cotton vo-pe, manufac- 
tured of as fine material as you can procure, about three 
eighths of an inch in diameter, very strong, and about 
ten feet in length. Tie a knot at each end — an ordinary 
hard knot with the end j)assed through the tie tioice in- 
stead of once is proper — slipping it down close to the 
end. A knot tied thus will not untie ; a single tie is in 
danger of slipping out. About the middle of the rope 
tie a common bow-knot, not drawing it tight, however ; 
pass the opposite end through the loop of the bow-knot, 
barely j^assing the knot at the end of the rope through 
the bow ; then pull the bow out as you would to untie 
it, drawing the rope through the place occuj)ied by the 
bow, and then draw the knot tight. You will thereby 
form a loop at one end of the rope, of the proper size to 
go over a horse's neck. Standing by the near-side of the 
horse, near the neck, take the large loop in both hands, 
pass it over the head and well down on to the neck, the 
same as a collar is put on. This loop should be of a size 
to fit the neck closely, when in that position. Pass the 
end from front to back through between the rope and 
the neck ; then place the running loop thus made in the 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 'i'l 

moutli, back of the bridle-teeth, and draw iijDon the 
rope. This will cause the rope to slide through the 
mouth. Now step in front of him with the rope in your 
right hand ; give him a gentle pull by raising your 
hand ; you will observe that this is a powerful and 
effectual means of checking up the horse. By a repeti- 
tion of this for a few times he will become accustomed 
to raising his head gracefully at each gentle pull upon 
the halter, and through the control you have acquired 
over his mouth. When you pull up on the lines to drive 
him, he remembers his lesson, and will need no check- 
rein to exhibit style in the head and neck. 

If he is inclined to put out his nose, pull down on 
the bridle, caressing him as he yields freely to the pull ; 
then put on the martingales, having them rather short, 
and drive him thus for a number of weeks. After the 
habit of curving his neck is formed, then apply the rope, 
and teach him to hold his head and neck up, by the up- 
ward pull, leaving off the martingales. You can as well 
have a showy horse as an awkward one. 

TO LIE DO^WN. 

Take the " Short Foot-Strap," {see Index;) standing on 
the near-side with your right hand throw it over the back, 
and with your left hand bring it under and tie it to the near 
fore-foot ; tie a knot in the bridle-rein on the back of the 
neck ; with your right hand, pulling over the back, pull 
up the near fore-foot under him just back of the fore- 
legs ; with your left hand hold firmly upon the bridle- 



T2 TRAINING OF HOUSES. 

rein near the head ; if he attempts to jump, pull him 
around toward you a few times. He will soon cease 
his efforts to escape, w^hen you will ease up and caress 
him, never letting loose, however, while he is struggling 
to get away ; pull upon the strap as before, and with 
your left hand pull upon the bridle rein near the knot on 
the neck so as to turn his head from you ; then gently 
but firmly bear down on his back with your right hand 
imtil he comes down upon his knees ; shift the left hand 
so as to pull his head toward you, and crowding against 
him, hold him firmly until he lies down, causing him to 
lie down from you ; pull his head well up toward you 
and step over him ; pass the end of the foot-strap 
which is in your right hand through the ring of the bri- 
dle-bit, and pull the head up and over, and hold it ; he 
can not get up while in this position. Hold him thus a 
short time, and pulling the strap out of the bridle-bit 
and stepping away, say, " Get up !" and crack a whip or 
chirrup. This process does not injure the knees, and 
after a few times repeated he wdll lie down readily ; 
then pull up the foot with the strap as before, and whip 
him across the knees until he kneels and lies down. 
Practice with this will accustom him to lie down at the 
motion of the w^hip. 

TO SIT UP. 

When the horse is lying down, as in the previous il- 
lustration, take the " Long Foot-Strap," {see Iiidex^ and 
passing the centre of it over his neck, bring the ends 



TKAIISTN^G OF HORSES. 73 

between his fore-legs, and pulling him over flat on his 
side, fetch his hind-legs well up under him and tie them 
with the ends of the foot-strap ; then saying, " Sit up !" 
as he attempts to rise, use all your strength in pushing 
back on the bridle. He will come into a sitting pos- 
ture. This repeated sufficiently often will teach him to 
sit up in the same manner, without the use of the strap, 
at the word of command. 

TO SAY NO. 

Stand by your horse near the shoulder, holding a pin 
in your hand, with which prick him lightly on the with- 
ers, and to drive away which he will shake his head. 
Then caress him, and repeat until he will shake his head 
at the motion of your hand toward his withers. 

TO MAKE A BOW AND KISS YOU. 

Stand as before, and with a pin in your fingers, prick 
him lightly in the breast as if a fly was biting him. He 
will bring down his head to relieve himself of the sup- 
posed bite. You will caress him and repeat. If he 
looks or acts cross, scold him. He will soon nod each 
time you put your hand toward his breast. Now place 
an apple, or some dainty for the horse, upon your cheek, 
and holding it toward him, say, *' Kiss me !" He will 
take the apple from your face. Repeated, he will put 
forth his mouth when you turn your cheek toward him 
and say, *' Kiss me !" You may, when the lessons are 
perfect, say to the horse, " Will you kiss me ?" and 
cause him to bow ; then turning your cheek and saying, 
" Kiss me I" he will kiss you. 



HABITS OF THE HOESE. 



■*-^^ 



Having already made sufficient allusions to explain 
our theory and practice, with the reasons therefor, we 
proceed to our lessons upon the habits of the horse. 
In these there is frequent use for the " Yankee Bridle," 
and as it would occupy too much space at each allusion 
thereto to give the manner of its use, we refer the read- 
er to the explanations under its proper heading. (See 
Jndex.) 

We here take occasion to allude to a fact in connec- 
tion with the use of this " Bridle," which if properly 
understood and appreciated will be valuable to the 
operator. The seat of the main means for exercising a 
controlling influence over the horse is the mouth. Get 
a governable mouth, and your mastery over the animal 
is more than half accomplished. All horses with bad 
habits have bad mouths, and you must give a practical 
force to the theory that it is the mouth to which you 
are to apply your governing forces, before you have 
succeeded in gaining a right to ask the horse to obey 
your will. Having governed, we may then proceed to 
teach, but not till then. Remember that for every habit 



76 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

there must be a separate apj)lication, and while this 
" Bridle" (which is so effective in controlling the 
mouth) is used in only one way, there are as many 
different meanings to be attached to its use as there are 
different habits to be cured, or lessons to be taught. 
Its use, therefore, prepares the mouth and head for the 
common bridle to carry into effect what is so well be- 
gun, and to give practice until the bad habit is 
broken up or the desired new one rendered permanent. 
The "Bridle," to accomplish so much good must of 
course be a powerful instrument, and caution must be 
observed not to use it to such an excess as to excite the 
animal to anger. Another implement which we find 
very serviceable in connection with breaking up the bad 
habits of the horse is 

THE OVERDBA'W CHECK:. 

Many horses are addicted to the habit of carrying a low 
head, tossing the head up and down, curving the neck so 
as to interfere with breathing while traveling rapidly, 
etc., for remedying which there are many resorts ; but the 
readiest and most handy one to accomplish the most gen- 
eral results, is what we denominate the " Overdraw 
CheckP As it is somewhat difficult to describe the manu- 
facture of this check, we will commence by suggesting 
that you put a common check-bit in the horse's mouth, tie 
a string to the near-side ring, pass it up over the face be- 
tween the ears, and let it hang down on the off-side of 
the neck to the place where the gag-runner should come ; 



TRAINING OF HORSES. Y7 

tie a similar string to the ring on the off-side of the bit, 
and bring it in the same manner over the head and 
down the near-side. You will thereby get the proper 
length, and by attaching the strings together at the 
point where they cross the face, you will have the meas- 
ure to the place where the straps of the check are to 
join from the bit. Take the measure from the horse 
which is to wear it. Take a strap about an inch wide, 
the length of the strings, allowing for a buckle and 
loop ; slit the leather up as far as the point where 
the strings crossed, leave a half an inch, then slit the 
leather the rest of its length. Attach a buckle to each 
of the shorter ends, and form a gag-runner on each of 
the longer ends, rounding the leathers. Buckle your 
shorter ends to your check-bit. Take your head-stall, 
and an inch each way from the centre on the top of the 
head j^lace a loop ; put the bit in the mouth, and pass the 
longer ends of the " Overdraw Check;" through the 
loops on top of the head-stall ; then attach an ordi- 
nary check-rein, with buckles on both sides, to the 
check-bit, and pass it through the gag-runners on the 
end of the " Overdraw Check," (instead of those usual- 
ly belonging to a head-stall ;) just before the point where 
the check-reins join the check-hook fasten the check- 
rein together with a rivet, so that, when hooked on, it 
can not slip back and forth through the check-hook. 
Care should be exercised to have the check-rein properly 
tightened. This will have a tendency to throw the 
nose out, giving the horse breath and a graceful carriage. 



78 ' TRAINING OF HOESES. 

The driving-lines must be attached to an easy bit, addi- 
tional to the check-bit. {See Figure 9.) 

KICKERS IN SINGLE HARNESS. 

Take the " Yankee Bridle," and give him a few strong^ 
lively piclls to fix his attention upon your movements. 
{See Figure 7.) Handle him sufficiently in this manner 
to cause him to follow you, back, stop, stand, etc., as 
per previous instructions ; in other words, exercise him 
until you gain perfect submission, and get a good con- 
trol of the mouth. Having this accomplished, you 
may harness him, and place upon him one of " Hock. 
welVs Safety Lines^'' which is made as follows : Take a 
common blind bridle, with a double ring-bit, {see Figure 
6) instead of the ordinary bit. Attach to the loose 
rings the " Overdraw Check," {see Figure 9,) the round 
portion of the check-rein to pass through the gag-run- 
ners of the " Overdraw," the flat portion which usually 
belongs in the check-hook to be only about a foot in 
length, so that the check-rein will lie upon the curve of 
the neck ; the loop which is made on the check-rein of 
the " Overdraw " by riveting the flat strap together at 
the centre, to be one inch from the centre to the offside. 
To this loop attach a common driving-line ; pass it 
through the off terret, in connection with the rein, the 
end being held in your hand. You will readily 
see by testing this, that if the horse cringes, 
and attempts to kick, or to run away, you can, by pull- 
ing upon the extra line, throw his head in the air in such 



CD 




TEAINING OF HORSES. 81 

a manner as to positively prevent him raising his heels. 
{See Figure 10.) This is equally applicable in double har- 
ness. Another plan is to take a half-inch rope, about 
twenty-four feet in length ; jDlace the centre of the rope 
across the top of the horse's head just back of the ears, 
fastening it to the head-stall ; pass the ends through the 
bridle-bit from the outside, and pass them up through the 
gag-runner ; (if the gag-runners are not quite strong, sup- 
ply their place by fastening a strap about one foot long, 
with a ring in each end, to the head-stall, over the head ;) 
then pass them through the terrets with the reins, and 
thence through a ring fastened on the back-strap just back 
of the hips, fastened strongly and so that it will not slip 
forward, seeing that the crouper and back-strap are 
strong ; now hitch him to a dray or job wagon, and 
tie the ends of the rope firmly to the thills, pulling it 
snug enough to check the head up as high as he can 
conveniently carry it and travel. {See Figure 11.) 
Take up the lines and drive him carefully the first few 
times. The habit being now probably broken up, you 
must practice him until he is safe, and he will then be 
ready to hitch up to a light carriage. 

KICKERS IN DOUBLE HARNESS. 

The best method for double kickers is to use the " safe- 
ty-line" {see Figure 10) as described with "single kick- 
ers." Another plan is to use the same means to gain 
submission which are described in alluding to kickers in 
single harness. Then put on a harness, and add to your 




iH 



ta 



TRAi]sn:srG of hoeses. 83 

common head-stall the " Overdraw Check." {^ee Figure 9.) 
Instead of passing the driving-lines through the martin- 
gales, pass them through the " Overdraw" gag-runners, 
and thence through the terrets. Have a strap attached 
to the bit, and have a person go ahead of the horse 
about ten feet, with the strap loose, until the horse at- 
tempts to turn, when he will pull up on him. You take 
the lines which pass through the " Overdraw" gag-run- 
ners, and, standing behind the horse, start him up; then 
jerk upon the lines, saying, " Whoa !" and stop him ; 
then, saying " Get up !" you Avill start him again, and 
repeat the jerk and the stopping. [See Figure 12.) This 
is to be done with considerable energy and activity, 
urging him with a whip if he refuses to go, and repeating 
until the horse will start and stop at the word of com- 
mand without the use of the lines. Two or three lessons 
will probably be sufficient, when you will place him along- 
side his mate in double harness. Take a small rope, 
about twenty-five or thirty feet in length ; fasten the cen- 
tre of the rope to the head-stall, on top of the head, be- 
tween the " Overdraw Check," which should be already 
on ; pass the ends down through the rings of the " Over- 
draw" bit, back up through the gag-runners of the " Over- 
draAV ;" pass them through the terrets, and then through 
a large stout ring which is fastened to a strap that should 
go under the tail in addition and similar to the croujDer, 
the ring to be tied down to the back-strap ; pass 
the ends down and tie them to the ends of his single 
whiffletree. In this position he may be driven and 




iH 

<D 

to 



TRAINING OF HOESES. 85 

worked with perfect safety, and after a few attempts at 
kicking he will so far abandon it as to be under the con- 
trol of the common driving-lines. Be careful and not 
tease or annoy a kicking horse. Gentleness and quiet 
treatment, accomj^anied with a sure control, will always 
effect a cure. 

Another j)lan, which we have formerly advised, and 
which has proved quite successful, is to put on a strong 
strap halter, with a pulley or ring in the end of the 
halter-stale ; pass it over a girth and under the body ; 
pass your hands quietly upon the hips and down the 
hind-legs, and buckle a strap with a ring on around each ; 
tie a rope or strap to the rings, passing it through the 
pulley or ring at the end of the halter-stale. Then let up 
on the bridle and start him along. He will probably kick 
and flounce considerably, when you must hold him firm- 
ly. As soon as he becomes quiet, caress him, and speak 
to him gently. Lead him along, and you will find, after 
a few attempts, that he will become reconciled to the 
gearing, when you may take it off. Keep cool yourself, 
and show determination by your acts ; for if you hesi- 
tate or show doubt, the horse will be sure to know it, 
and your labor will be materially increased. Repeat 
the next day, and you will find him very much improved. 
During this process, as well as all other efforts to break 
up bad habits, where the horse is to be severely exer- 
cised, keep him in good feed, and give him the best of 
care. If you break a horse of habits while he is in low 
feed and has but little ambition, they may develop 



86 TRAINING OF HOrwSES. 

themselves afterward when he is in high feed and fine 
spirits. 

There are other methods of accomplishing the same 
ends which we have used, but those we mention we con- 
sider the best. Among those we have discarded is one 
of putting a strap around the neck, and attaching the 
strap from the hind-legs to that, instead of a halter. We 
are informed that some person is lately pretending to 
have a patent upon this plan ; but we used it years ago, 
until we had learned better modes. 

KICKERS "WHIIjE HAKNESSIWG-. 

Put on " Yankee Bridle," {see Figure 7,) and give him 
a few sharp pulls, and, standing by his shoulder, draw it 
up veri/ tight, tying it with a half-hitch. {See Figure 13.) 
Under all circumstances keep hold of the end of the 
"Bridle" when it is thus tied, to be enabled at any mo- 
ment to pull out the tie if occasion requires. In this 
position you need not fear his kicking. Put on the har- 
ness quietly, being particular in handling that portion 
of the harness in the rear, very gently. Few people 
understand tchg a horse kicks while being harnessed. 
The reason is simply this : he first kicked from being 
hurt by the harness being thrown too heavily upon him, 
or from some other injury or careless movement. Upon 
kicking he has probably been struck with the pitchfork 
or some other handy weapon. The horse, as far as he 
has any ideas upon the subject, gets the idea that you 
strike him because he does not kick hard enough, and 
he tries to satisfy you by kicking with all his might. 



09 



CO 




88 TRAINIJ^G O^ HOESES. 

Witli a motion of our whip we can make our horse Tiger 
kick without fail, because we have taught him this. It 
is teaching the same thing to your horse when you strike 
him, and he soon learns his lesson so well that he will 
kick at the motion of taking up the harness. He has 
learned to associate the harness with injury to himself, 
and he supposes kicking is what you want ; consequent- 
ly, the harder you strike the harder he will kick. To 
teach him a different lesson you must place him in a 
position where he can not kick, and proceed to handle 
him gently. Now ease up on the rope and caress him. 
If he is so bad that the feeling of the harness then in- 
duces him to kick, before he can do so, if possible, pull 
up sharply upon the "Bridle." A few quick pulls will 
divert his attention to his mouth, and he will begin to 
find that nothing hurts him in the rear, and he will stop 
trying to kick. Loosen upon the rope and lead him 
around ; perhaps half an hour may be necessary before 
he becomes perfectly reconciled ; then remove the har- 
ness. Put on the "Bridle" every time you harness or 
unharness him, for the first few days. You will perceive 
a manifest improvement by this time, and you may now 
give practice to the lesson, by putting on the head-stall 
first when harnessing, hooking the check-rein into the 
check-hook before putting on the harness ; then, if he 
shows signs of kicking, you will gently pull on the check, 
which, reminding him of the "Yankee Bridle," will cause 
him to hold up his head and forget his other troubles ; 
as you gently put the harness on the^back and proceed 



TEAINING OF HORSES. 89 

to buckle the croiiper, yon have the same control by 
means of the back-strap. Keep this up until you are 
satisfied of there being no further need of this precau- 
tion, being watchful in putting him into the thills, etc., 
that he is not hit hard or unnecessarily excited. Have 
him very carefully groomed and handled. A horse that 
is not a very bad kicker will probably be broke with 
much less trouble than we have alluded to — the lesson 
we give in this, as well all other cases, being adapted to 
the worst ones. 

KICKING WHILE GKOOMING. 

A patient and careful man is best calculated to cause 
a change of this habit. The horse with this habit is 
always afflicted with too much nervousness, augmented 
frequently by heedless handling. Put on the " Yankee 
Bridle," {see Figure 7,) and treat him the same as the 
" kickers while harnessing," drawing it up tight and ty- 
ing. {See Figure 13.) Then take a currycomb and com- 
mence currying him upon the neck, gradually approach- 
ing the places where he is tender, when you will very 
softly and gently pass the currycomb over the places. 
He will not be able to kick, and will stand tolerably still. 
After two or three times currying, you may proceed 
without the " Bridle" being drawn up tight, but as you 
approach the tender places give him a slight pull, hav- 
ing the end of the rope held in your hand for that pur- 
pose, and each time he cringes or shows signs of kicking, 
pull up sufficiently to attract his attention to the head, 



90 TRAINING OF HOESES. 

and curry with a lighter hand. Convincing him that he 
is not to be hurt soon allays his nervous fears, and he 
will yield to your control. If the habit is just being 
formed, apparently pay no attention to the horse's move- 
ments, but be sicre that your currycomb does not 7mrt 
him. 

KICKING AND STRIKING WHILE SHOEING. 

The blacksmith should always use every precaution 
necessary to protect his life while shoeing strange 
horses, and if there are any signs of viciousness, should 
at once take steps for his own protection, proceeding ac- 
cording to instructions in the following lesson, as far as 
his judgment warns him is necessary. The rules we 
give are to apply to the worst and most vicious animals. 
Take hold of the halter-stale within a foot or two of the 
head ; with your left hand pull his head toward you on 
the near-side, and, by a rapid motion with your right, 
catch firmly hold of the tail, and instantly commence 
whirling him around, pulling the head toward you. (See 
Figure 4.) Whirl him three or four times around and 
stop, stepping quickly up to the head ; before he has had 
time to get over his confusion and dizziness, repeat the 
whirling operation, and while he is still laboring under 
the effects of the whirl, strap up his near fore-leg; j^ut 
on the " Yankee Bridle," {see Figure 7,) and step out in 
front of him. There is no danger now of his striking 
you. Use him sharply with the " Bridle," pulling ear- 
nestly and vigorously to and fro, and leading him around 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 91 

on three legs, until you are confident that you have 
completely discouraged him. See that the cord is well 
down on the neck, and draw up tightly on the rope and 
tie with a half-hitch. [See Figure 13.) Never keep the 
head tied down in this manner more than two or three 
minutes at a time. If you are not through, loosen up 
and tie again. Take a hammer and strike a few times 
upon the foot which is strapped up, at the same time 
handling it. When he grows quiet let down the foot 
and take up the off fore-foot, by throwing the webbing 
over the neck, tying it, and drawing up ; then hammer 
that foot in the same manner until he allows you to hold 
it without trying to get it away, then let it down. This 
will do for horses which strike while beinsr shod for- 
ward, provided the " Bridle" is kept drawn tight. For 
kickers, an additional precaution is required. Take the 
" short foot-strap," tie it around the near hind-leg, about 
six inches above the fetlock, (where the blacksmith usu- 
ally takes hold of the leg,) with a slip-noose knot. Take 
a short hold with the left hand upon the "Bridle," loosen 
it, and, with the right hand upon the foot-strap, pull him 
around two or three times. Have some other person 
hold him now by the head, and step back and pull upon 
the foot-strap, backward, sideways, etc. In an experi- 
ence, during our travels, with thousands of vicious 
horses, we found but three horses which the above plan 
did not bring to perfect submission. Those were brought 
to terms by taking the " long foot-strap," tying it 
around the neck with a slip-noose knot, (placing it well 



92 TRAINING OF HOESES. 

down on the neck,) passing it between the fore-legs, 
bringing it around the near hind-leg just above the 
hock, and passing it through the portion around the 
neck. This prevents the rope tightening around the 
neck, and gives you a means of holding the hind-leg, 
which will prove perfectly convincing to the horse that 
he is over-matched. Pull up the hind-leg with one hand 
and on the " Yankee Bridle" with the other. If time is 
important, you will find it advisable to shoe him while 
thus held, which can be done with a little inconvenience, 
changing the strap as you change legs. Every time 
you do this without hurting him goes to help cure him, 
which can not, however, be done in less than five or six 
days. These same rules will apply to mules, though 
mules are controlled easier. 

KICKING ON ATTEMPTS TO ENTER STALL. 

Use a stout halter. Take the " Yankee Bridle," (see 
Figure 7,) placed on as usual, except that the rope 
should, in this case, be tied on the ojf-side ring of the 
bit and passed through the near-side ring, and *wdthout 
being thrown over the neck. Lead him into as wide a 
stall as convenient, tie the halter-stale rather long, and 
as you come out draw slightly upon the rope of the 
" Yankee Bridle," bringing the end out with you, and 
hanging it in some handy place. When you have 
occasion to enter or go near the stall, take hold of the 
end of the rope, {see Figure 14 ;) and if the horse kicks 
and squeals, pull up on the rope, being careful not to pull 






If^ 




94 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

too hard. This will have the effect to make him stop 
kicking. In a short time he will have learned that to 
kick is to be brought np by the rope^ and he will cease 
it altogether. After having pulled and entered the 
stall, remember and caress him, impressing upon him 
that he is not to be hurt by your entrance. You will 
thus not only teach him better manners, but win his 
confidence. Never strike or shout at a horse while you 
are entering the stall. 

BALKIIfG IN DOUBLE HARNESS. 

Apply the "Yankee Bridle " {see Figure 1) ft-equently 
for about two days, using it vigorously. After the first 
day put the rope up over the top of his head. In pull- 
ing him to and fro you need not be very gentle ; on tlie 
contrary, be severe, after each side-pull pulling him 
straight ahead, impressing upon him that he must move 
along whenever any thing presses upon the head and 
mouth. He must be kept in ignorance of his ability to 
resist after you once commence breaking him of the 
habit. Start with him, and when half through neglect 
him, and let him balk again, and you lose nearly all the 
ground gained. You must therefore be sure that you 
can do what you try, and be certain that you do accom- 
plish every movement which you undertake. jN'ow, if 
the horse shows signs of being angry, put on the " Yan- 
kee Bridle," with the rope, as in Figure 14. Tie a knot 
in the end of the tail ; part the hairs above the knot, 
and pass the rope of the " Yankee Bridle " through the 



TRAINING OF HORSES. 95 

opening, pulling it up until it draws the head pretty- 
well around, and tie it with a half-hitch. Then with a 
whip start him around, {see Figure 15,) and as he whirls 
hit him first over the face with your hand, then with the 
whip around the legs, until he has whirled about three 
times around, when catch hold of the end of the rope 
and untie it. Do not let him whirl too much or he will 
become so dizzy as to fall. This is a powerful control- 
ling influence, and in our hands has frequently been suf- 
ficient of itself to break balky horses. Now take hold 
of the " Yankee Bridle " and lead him along. This Avill 
suffice for this lesson, repeating it, however, frequently 
each day for three or four days. He is then ready to 
hitch up in harness. Place the balky horse on the off- 
side, (if on the near-side, of course reverse the whole 
operation.) Take a soft, stout half-inch rope, about six 
feet in length; tie a small loop, just large enough to 
slip on the under jaw at one end of the rope; put the 
loop on the horse's jaw, (regardless of his tongue ;) pass 
the rope up the off-side of the neck, close to his ears, 
over and down the near-side, through the loop on the 
jaw. Tie a strap from the hame-ring on one horse to 
the hame-ring on the other. Take a stiff, stout pole, 
and eighteen inches from one end tie it firmly to the in- 
side end of the true horse's single-tree ; lay it across the 
strap running from hame to hame ; tie a strap from the 
true horse's shoulder to the pole, so that the pole can 
not get more than half-way over to the balky horse ; 
have the pole project a little beyond the horse's mouth, 



TRAINING OF HOUSES. • 97 

and tie the rope to the end of the pole, leaving only just 
sufficient slack on the rope to allow the horse to travel 
without interference from it while in his place. You 
will see that as you now attempt to drive, if the horse 
balks, the true horse will, in pulling his single-tree for- 
ward, pull with the end of the pole upon the rope, and 
remind the balky one that he 'must move ; the strap from 
the shoulder of the near horse to the pole will prevent 
a side draft, and the eighteen inches projecting over at 
the rear end will, as the true horse pulls up, slide along 
the double-tree, and keep the weight of the pole from 
pressing the single-tree down. A few times practicing 
with this will remove all desire to balk. You may work 
the team with this pole on, never overloading. [See 
Figure 16.) 

Another good way to start a balker is to tie a stout 
strap to the inside hind-leg of the balky horse ; bring it 
over the pole of the wagon, and tie it, moderately tight- 
ened, to the true horse's collar. As the true horse starts 
up, and the balky horse lags back, the pull upon the leg 
attracts his attention, and in his struggle to release him- 
self he forgets to balk, and will move forward. 

BALKING IN SINGLE HARNESS. 

Treat him the same as you treat the kicker in double 
harness up to the point where you get the horse ready 
to harness. Put on a single harness and let him stand 
in the stall with it on an hour or two, and then take it 
off, repeating when convenient. On the second day, 




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TRAINING OF HORSES. 99 

haviDg the harness on, buckle it up rather tight ; tie the 
traces into the breeching-rings, drawing them up pretty 
snugly. This will accustom him to the pressure of the 
harness, toughening him to bear it, as well as if the 
pressure was caused by pulling a load. He should stand 
thus for an hour or two, then take off the harness. Be- 
tween the times of his wearing the harness have him 
wear the colt's bitting bridle, {see Figure 2,) pretty well 
checked up. Don't be afraid of bitting the balky horse 
too much, nor of handling him too much with the 
" Yankee Bridle," provided you do not get the mouth 
sore. If it gets sore, Avait for it to heal. Now put on 
the harness, buckled up tightly, and the traces tied in, 
with the "Yankee Bridle" bit and rope attached to the 
blind bridle, instead of the ordinary bit, the rope lying 
over the neck; then take the reins and drive him around, 
twisting and turning in all directions. If he attempts 
to balk, throw the reins across the back, and exercise 
him with the "Yankee Bridle," and renew the attempt 
to drive. Do this as long as there are any symptoms 
of balking. Keep the horse well fed during all the 
efforts to break him. Now hitch him up to a light wa- 
gon, having the harness very loose and loosely checking 
him ; handle the reins very gently, and drive him slow- 
ly and w^ithout exciting him, giving him every advan- 
tage to go. If he only shows signs of balking, pay no 
attention to him ; but if he does balk, take him out of 
the wagon, and taking hold of the rope of the "Yan- 
kee Bridle," make him feel it severely ; then put him 



100 TKAIXIXG OF HORSES. 

back ill the wagon, and start him along gently. If, in 
holding him up, he attempts to prance, make him go 
along at a rapid gait ; (under all circumstances, when 
colts or young horses attempt to prance or Avish to rush 
ahead, we always let them go, and they soon find their 
level.) If 3'ou wish to match or drive him double, mate 
with a spirited horse. 

If your horse is a lazy, sleepy balker, he wants treat- 
ing very differently. Treat him as before, up to the 
point where you are ready to harness. Instead of har- 
nessing him, we take him when he is in the stall sleep- 
ing, lying or standing, and with a very loud, sharp 
w^ord or yell, hit him one severe blow with a whip. Do 
not repeat this until you find him when he is entirely 
unaware of your presence, when you may do it again — 
doing it as often as opportunities of this sort offer — and 
whether in or out of harness, surprise and startle him 
in this way often. This apparently unnatural mode of 
proceeding may be easily explained. The horse of this 
kind is not excitable, and balks because his nervous sys- 
tem does not stimulate him to action. By frightening 
him in the manner spoken of, you soon arouse his nerv- 
ous sensibilities, and whenever he is spoken to sharply, 
and a blow accompanies the word, he is quite certain to 
move with alacrity. The object in not repeating the 
word and blow is, that the second one might anger 
him, wdiich is not what you want, as that would make 
him worse, it being impossible to cause him to obey 
you when ho is maddened by blows. Isfe-oer strike a 



TEAINIXG OF HOESES. 101 

horse ichile he is halhing ! and never load a balky horse 
heavy. If you can not afford to give him light loads, 
trade liim off to some one who can. 

EUNWIlSrG AWAIT. 

In Double Hae.n^ess. — Use the "Yankee Bridle," 
{see Figure 7,) as in tlie case of kickers, except that in 
puUing upon it, after pulling sideways, you pull 'bach- 
ward each time. Give three or four lessons ; if you 
choose, give them all in one day, though the longer you 
continue it the better. The next day hitch him up 
double, using, instead of the ordinary bit, the double- 
ring bit belonging to the "Yankee Bridle," attaching 
the "overdraw check" {see Figure 9) to the loose rings 
of the bit and the reins to the outer rings, with the 
"long foot-strap" on. When you start him out of the 
yard, after he has gone a few steps, pull him up sud- 
denly and say, " Whoa !" pulling on the foot-strap, {see 
Figure 8 ;) drive him on a little ways, and pull him up 
in the same w^ay, saying, " Whoa !" as if you yourself 
were frightened ; drive him up to objects which alarm 
him, or cause noises to be made w^hich excite him, pull- 
ing him up, fetching him well back to the wagon. You 
need not pull up the foot-strap every time. It is used in 
this case more for a protection than to teach. The 
teaching is to be mainly done through the mouth. He 
can not run if the strap is pulled up ; so you are safe if 
you are watchful. You may, however, frequently put 
him on a run and stop him by the foot-strap, pulling him 



102 TKAINIXG OF HORSES. 

back. The " Bridle " should be applied for two or 
three months, at intervals. Yoii may take off the foot- 
strap after you are satisfied it is safe to do so, though 
you had better not drive a bad runaway until by means 
of these sudden stojopings he has become well accus- 
tomed to being stopped, and readily yields to the pull 
and the word. Every few weeks it is well to try the 
foot-strap and use some means to cause him to try and 
run, being sure always to pull up before he can run, to 
test the force of the lesson. 

I]S" Single Harness. — We advise that the runaway 
in single harness should, if convenient, be hitched up 
double, and apply the remedy for runners in double 
harness for two or three times, the " Yankee Bridle " 
{see Mgicre 1) being applied before hitching up at all. 
Put on the single harness, using " Rockwell's Safety 
Line," {see Figure 10.) Drive with the usual driving- 
lines held in the left hand, and the safety-line held in the 
right hand, and if the horse attempts to run, pull up on 
the " safety-line." This will effectually stop him, and 
eventually cure him. While you are on your guard you 
may excite him to run, and then stop him. You will in 
this, as well as many other lessons, avoid a bad reputa- 
tion for your horse by practicing after nightfill or with- 
in your own premises. 

If your horse runs away hut once, immediately apply 
the remedy. It is sinful to risk the lives of those who 
are to ride after him. A little time and labor is of no 
account in comparison with the damage which he may do, 



TEAINING OF HORSES. 103 

and a horse which has run once, no matter from what 
cause, is likely to run again, and the remedy should be 
applied to prevent it. The plan of tying a strap to each 
hind-leg above the gambrel, passing it through the girth, 
was taught by us for years, with tolerable success ; but 
we have abandoned it for the ones we describe, as we 
have found them to be far preferable. We are informed 
that a patent has been taken out for this tying plan ; 
but the patent is void from lack of originality, and, 
in view of the later improvements by us, is comparative- 
ly valueless. 

KEFTJSING- TO STAND TO CARKIAGE. 

Proceed the same as w^hen teaching tlie colt to stand 
to be harnessed, using the common bridle if it will an- 
swer ; if not, applying the " Yankee Bridle," (see Fig- 
ure 7.) Lead liim on to the floor, place him in the posi- 
tion you wish him, and say, " Whoa !" The object of this 
lesson being to teach him the application of the word 
" whoa " — the most important word in horsemanship — 
you will proceed by stepping aw^ay from him, and if he 
moves, put him back and repeat, " Whoa !" If he appears 
to trifle and not heed you, use the " Bridle," pulling 
upon him to warn him to attend to you. Practice this 
until he will allow you to walk away in any direction 
without moving Iiimself. Take a whip and crack it 
slightly, and if at this he moves, put him back as be- 
fore, increasing the cracks of the whip until you accus- 
tom him to stand while the whip is being flourished. 



104 TKATXING OF HOESES. 

If you are obliged to drive him while you are trying to 
break him, do not use the word " whoa," as he is not yet 
accustomed to minding it, and it will only make matters 
worse. Shift the position of the horse and repeat the 
lesson, putting on the harness and leading to ]3laces 
where he is accustomed to refuse to stand, and teach 
him to stand in those places, as well as teaching him to 
obey the word " whoa," before hitching him to car- 
riage. Then hitch him to a carriage inside a building, 
with the doors closed. Get in and out of the carriage, 
rattle the thills and shake the carriage, causing him to 
stand by means heretofore alluded to. If it appears 
that the habit is caused by fear of the carriage behind 
him, take him out of the thills and lead him around it, 
allowing him to examine it, and even eat oats out of a 
measure set in the carriao:e. Now take him out of 
doors, and if he renews his attempts to start, take him 
out of the thills and use the " Yankee Bridle," fetching 
him back between the thills, and say, " Whoa !" You 
will by this means soon teach him that " whoa " means 
for him to stop and stand. Repeated, he will stand 
quietly until you are ready to give him the signal to 
start. For the sake of not undoing all you have done, 
remember the caution heretofore given, to say " whoa " 
only when you mean him to stop. 

PULLING AT HALTER. 

Place on him a common halter head-stall. Put on a 
common girth. Take a half inch rope about twenty 



TRAINING OF HOUSES. 105 

feet long. Pass the centre of this rope under the tail 
in place of a cronper ; twist the rope over a couple of 
times ; pass the ends of the rope under the girth, bring- 
ing an end up on each side of the neck, and pass the 
ends through the nose-piece of the head-stall, under the 
cheek-pieces, and tie to a stout ring or place, leaving 
about three feet play of rope. As soon as the horse 
pulls back, he being tied by the tail to the ring, he pulls 
upon the tail, {see Figure 17,) and the hurt coming there 
instead of the head, where he expected it, he starts up, 
it being natural to go from the hurt. Another plan 
may be found under the head of " Colts Pulling at the 
Halter " — in fact, any plan which brings the pull in the 
rear, either upon the tail or leg, will do the business. 
Your own ingenuity will devise several ways to accom- 
plish this ; but we consider tying to the tail the safest, 
as there is no danger attached to it ; and if he is in the 
habit of pulling nights, this arrangement may be left on 
with.out fear of the horse getting tangled in the rope, as 
there would be if tied to the leg. Common-sense will 
show you that as there is no pull upon the head, and 
consequently no hurt there, he will soon cease j)ulling, 
and lose the habit. To m'ake the lessons effective, you 
may cause him to pull by using such exciting means as 
are apt to alarm him. 

A rougher and not quite as effectual a way is to place 
a pulley to the rafter, as high in the peak as you can 
get it. Take a hay-fork rope, pass one end through the 
pulley, down through the rack or feed-box, pulling it 




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TEAINING OF H0KSE3. 107 

througli the ring or place of tying, about four feet, and 
tie to the lialter. At the otiier end of the rope, which 
lies on the floor overhead, tie a fifty-pound weight. 
When the horse pulls back, the vreight lifts, and as he 
tires of pulling and yields, it draws him back into the 
stall. These rules followed up will cure. 

BBIDLE-PULLIIMG-. 

Put a rope on the tail in the same manner as in halter- 
pulling, {see .Figure 16,) except that you pass the ends 
through the rings of a bridle, and tie them to a post 
where the horse is in the habit of pulling, unhitching 
the wagon if one was attached. Step away, and fright- 
en him by means of a wheelbarrow or whatever is apt 
to alarm him, causing him to pull. As he pulls, the 
pressure coming upon the tail, he will step up to the 
post. Take hold of the rope between the post and his 
head, and give it a few pulls back and forth. By this 
means he will learn to step forward rather than to pull 
back. After a few lessons ho may be tied with a com- 
mon tie-strap, the end, however, passing through the 
ring of the bridle-bit, and being tied to the back-strap. 
Do this until you are satisfied you have effected a cure. 

BAD TO BRIDLE. 

With the ''Yankee Bridle," (see Figure 7,) pull his 
head down and gently handle his ears. When he will 
allow you to do so without trying to get his head up, 
loosen up and allow him to lift it. If he is inclined to 



108 TRAINING OF HOKSES. 

Strike, put on the halter and tie him to a post; then ap- 
ply the "Yankee Bridle" sharply, keeping at a dis- 
tance ; then approach him, keeping the lialter pulled 
tight by means of the rope in your hand, and pulling 
his head down, handle his ears gently. When he al- 
lows it quietly, caress him. K he is inclined to back 
up, back him into a stall and repeat. In half an hour 
he will allow you to handle his ears to your liking. 
Repeat the operation whenever he shows signs of re- 
turning to the habit. The head- stall on such a horse 
should be of good length, and the ears always handled 
carefully. If you have not time to break him, in put- 
ting on the bridle pass your right hand under the neck, 
take hold of the nose from the oj^posite side ; with your 
left hand pass the bits in the mouth ; take your hand 
from the nose and with it carefully put on the head-stall, 
while your left hand is in the mouth working at the bit, 
shaking and fumbling it to keep his attention until the 
head-stall is properly placed. 

If bad to put the bits in the mouth, pass your right 
hand around under the neck and take hold of the nose ; 
with the left hand press the lips against the bridle-teeth 
before the bits touch the teeth. This will cause him to 
open his mouth. To break up the habit, use the 
*' Yankee Bridle " while bitting, passing the bits in and 
out, hitting the teeth each time. This will cure him. 

BAD TO BACK. 

Use the "Yankee Bridle," {sec Figure 1,) and then 
tie him to a ring in a wall or building with a long 



TRAINIXG OF HOESES. 109 

halter-stale. Lead him past the ring as far as the length 
of the halter will alloAV, and from the opj)Osite side from 
the halter pull back upon the " Yankee Bridle," (see 
Figure 18,) not using at this time any words. Continue 
this until he backs readily at the pull, then begin using 
the word " hack^'' and repeat until he understands the 
meaning of the word, and will back upon being told to. 
Do this next in harness, and, if necessary, after he is 
hitched to wagon. There is no difficulty in soon fixing 
the lesson upon his attention so that he will never for- 
get it. 

A plan which we once used was to use a rope in 
somewhat the same manner as the' " Yankee Bridle," 
except that instead of the double-ring bit we had a small 
loop on the end of the rope, which slipped on the under 
jaw. This cord was used by us for a while as we now 
use the *' Yankee Bridle;" but we found it to injure the 
mouth, and in fact we killed one horse in Salem, Mass., 
by its use, and have since discarded it, finding by ex- 
jDcrience that the bridle of our invention is perfectly 
harmless and more effectual. With the cord alluded to 
we would pull backward upon the horse, at the same 
time lifting up his foot with the " foot-strap." 

The two Avorst horses we have ever met with in our 
travels were broken to back by these means. The first 
one was at Brighton, near Boston, Mass., in the spring 
of 1863. This horse was a large, stout animal, which 
for nine years had not been known to back, and all 
efforts to teach him had failed. If put into a stall too 




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TRAINING OF HORSES. Ill 

narrow for him to turn round in, they were compelled 
to hitch another horse to him and draw him out. We 
broke this horse in twenty-five minutes, so that he 
would readily back at the word, and he never has for- 
gotten it. We broke him by means of the cord in the 
mouth, and the " foot-strap," but not without blistering 
his mouth badly, and marking it for life. 

The other horse alluded to was broken at Cleveland, 
Ohio, in February, 188G. In this case we used the 
"Yankee Bridle," and a halter attached to a ring in a 
wall, (one of the best places for the lesson to be given.) 
This was done before one of our private classes in that 
city, and the animal was so notoriously bad that not one 
of the two hundred spectators present had faith that he 
could be made to back ; but he did back, and without 
being in any way injured, within fifteen minutes from 
the time he was brought before the class, and the lesson 
was so efiectual as to operate permanently upon the 
animal. 

BAD BITSKS. 

If he is a stallion with a confirmed habit of biting 
and striking, we should not think it worth our while to 
attempt to cure him, but should castrate him at once. 
You are always in risk of your life or limb while you 
have such an animal about. If a mare or gelding, put 
on the " Yankee Bridle," {see Index^) and watch him 
closely, in a sly way, not letting him know you are 
watching him ; and when he attempts to bite, give him 



112 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

a few severe i^ulls upon the "Bridle." Do this in such 
places as he is most likely to bite, and we will warrant 
that a few efforts will teach your animal that his jaws 
were not made to bite his keeper. To prevent a stallion 
from biting his mate when hitched up double, attach an 
independent line to the outside ring of his bit, letting it 
hang loosely, the end being held by the driver. As he 
attempts to bite, pull up sharj^ly, and hit him severely 
with the whip. 

PUTTING TONGUE OUT OF MOUTH. 

To prevent this, take a thick piece of patent harness 
leather, about four inches long and two inches wide. 
Cut off the ends rounding; near the edge on each side 
punch two holes, through which put a leather string, and 
tie it on top of a joint-bit. When you put in the bit 
place this on top of the tongue ; take the side-pieces of 
the head-stall up j^retty well. This will prevent him 
from running his tongue out over the bit. If he runs it 
out under the bit, use a straight bit, bore two holes 
through the bit from the under side, about an inch and 
three fourths apart. To these attach a piece of large 
wire, bringing it under in the shape of tlie bowl of a 
spoon. When you put on the bit, pull the tongue 
through between this wire and the bit, seeing that the 
space is large enough for it to sit easy. These plans 
will soon break up this bad-looking habit. 



TRAINING OP HORSES. 113 

HARD PULLEKS. 

Try giving a horse wliich pulls upon the bit all the 
road he wants and let him go ; if he goes too fast, jerk 
up on one line, and then the other, (having a heavy load 
behind him ;) slacken up and let him go again. If this 
does not answer, drive him with the " Yankee Bridle," 
(see Index^) without the rope, attaching the lines to its 
bit, without martingales. We have known several in- 
stances where stage-horses, livery-horses, plow-horses, 
etc., have been temporarily stopped from pulling by 
tying a piece of waxed-end or stout small twine around 
the nose, just above the bit. 

"WHEELING AROUND IN" HARNESS. 

Put a horse with this habit in the " Safety Shafts," 
heretofore described, {see Figure 19;) wind the front 
iron with a hay or straw rope ; tie a strap into one sta- 
ple, lift up the shafts, and throwing the strap over the 
neck, tie it to the other staple, bringing the shafts up 
high enough to have the front iron come where a breast 
collar should; fasten your stout breeching-straps well 
forward on the side j)oles. Now put on " Yankee Bri- 
dle," [see Index^) and give him a few pulls ; then have 
some object which causes alarm, such as an umbrella, 
hat, etc., brought up in front of him. Hold well on to 
the "Bridle," and let him examine the article. The 
shafts will keep him from backing or wheeling, and the 
" Bridle " must keep him from going ahead. Then 
drive him up to these objects by the reins, teaching 




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TRAINING OF HOESES. 115 

him not to fear them, and that going ahead is the only 
direction for him. These shafts will be found useful in 
many other particulars which will readily suggest them- 
selves. 

There are, of course, many other habits of the horse ; 
but a sensible application of the rules we have laid 
down will find a remedy for most if not all of them. 



GEK"EEAL EEMAEKS. 



HOW TO THROW A HORSE. 

The easiest and most effectual method of throwing 
down a horse, is to strap up the near-side fore-foot; put 
on a surcingle, with a ring ftistened to the top of the 
surcingle ; tie a half-inch rope around his neck in the 
same manner you would to hitch him by the neck ; 
place it up near the throat-latch, with the knot on the 
near-side of the foce ; pass the rope through the mouth, 
and bring it along his neck on the off-side, and pass it 
through the ring on the back; standing back on the 
near-side, about six or eight feet from the horse, oppo- 
site his near-side hind-leg, drawing the rope sufficiently 
tight to keep it in the mouth. Pull carefully until he 
yields his head a little to the off-side ; then give a sharp, 
strong puU, and keeping your hold, pull strongly until 



116 TKAINING OF HORSES. 

he is down, {see Figiire 20,) which will occupy from ono 
to five seconds. As he goes down, lying upon the near- 
side, you keep the rope tightened, and he can not get 
up. By repeating this, you will soon make him quite a 
trick-horse, as he will learn to lie down by simply pull- 
ing upon the off bridle-rein. Throwing is often neces- 
sary in surgical operations, and as the horse may be 
thrown on either side, and with perfect safety, by this 
plan, we consider it preferable to the former way of 
throwing him by main strength. 

Another very good plan, and in some respects more 
convenient, especially where it is desirable to tie the 
animal when down, is to take about a four-inch ring. 
Sew into it two straps, one about three feet in length and 
two and a half inches wide, with a double-tongued 
buckle sewed on the other end; and the other strap 
about one foot long and the same width, with holes 
punched to fit the buckle ; take a rope about eighteen 
feet in length, and loop the centre on the ring. Strap 
up the near-leg of the horse you are to operate upon, 
and place on him a strong bridle, with the check-pieces 
tolerably short. Buckle the wide strap around the 
neck, with the ring upon the breast ; pass the rope be- 
tween his fore-legs, and thence between his hind-legs, 
fetching the ends of the rope again forward by bring- 
ing them on the outside of each leg above the gambrel ; 
and passing them on the outside of the fore-legs, put 
them throuQjh the rins: from the inside. Have a man 
hold of each rope, prepared to pull as you say, " Ready !" 



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118 TRAINING OF HOKSES. 

whicli will be as soon as you slip the cord below the 
gambrel on both legs, which you may then proceed to 
do, {see Figure 21,) you pulling upon the off-side line 
attached to the bridle. As he falls, which he will do 
upon the near-side, the person holding the near-side rope 
will keep it tight. As you stand by the shoulder, you 
reach over and take the off-side rope in your hands, the 
person releasing it to you to kneel dow^ n, and, taking the 
horse's head between his knees, hold it with the nose 
upward. With the off-rope take a half-hitch over his 
off hind-foot, and bring down his off fore-foot ; take a 
half-hitch on that, and another half-hitch on the hind- 
foot, and wind the rope once around the rope between 
the two feet. This done, receive the near-side rope and 
take two half-hitches over the near hind-foot. Take a 
strap, already prepared, about three inches Avide, and 
about three feet in length, with a D fastened to each 
end, and with an inch strap about a foot from each end, 
about three feet in length, so prepared with a buckle as 
to be made shorter or longer, as the case may require, 
to be used as a crouper ; tie the strap through the D to 
the off-foot w^ith the end of the rope. Go behind the 
horse, and taking hold of the tail between the small 
strap and Avide one, pull the wide strap as far under 
the horse as possible, and rolling him half over, pull the 
strap up to just beyond the point of the hips; pass the 
rope on the near-side through the D of the strap, and, 
drawing the near-legs down close to the side, tie it. 
Keep him on his back during the operation. Be care- 



o 
to 




120 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

ful and observe the instructions closely, as a failure to 
do evscry portion of the work properly may cause you 
to be injured. 

There are many other plans for tying horses for sur- 
gical operations, and the operator must exercise his 
judgment, governing himself by the location of the 
operation. The examples we have given are, in our 
opinion, the simplest, safest, and surest plans which 
have yet been adopted. 

TO FETTER A HORSE. 

Buckle a wide strap around the neck of the horse, to 
which attach a strap at the breast, bringing it between 
the fore-legs and through over the surcingle, with a 
pulley or D at the end of the strap just beyond where 
it passes through over the surcingle. Take a D, and to 
the straight side attach two straps with buckles, of suf- 
ficient length to go around the hind-leg, one above and 
one below the gambrel, with the D in front. Have one 
for each leg. Tie a strap into one D, pass it through 
the pulley, or D, at the surcingle, and tie it to the other 
D, having it drawn moderately tight, when the horse is 
in a quiet standing position. {^See Figure 22.) Tliis 
mode of fettering has been found very serviceable in 
pricking horses. We do not consider it a practical plan 
to prevent kicking in harness, as it does not teach the 
horse any thing, and only stops him from kicking for 
the time being. If the strap ran to the mouth instead 
of the breast, it might be tolerably effectual to prevent 



! 







122 TRAINING OF HOKSES. 

kicking, or running away, as it would operate upon the 
portion where control is necessary to he had, and where, 
in the absence of the strap, he might be reminded of it 
by the lines. 

We have used ^dth success a side fetter, which con- 
sists of a strap about three feet in length, with a D in 
each end, and a short strap in each D, to buckle around 
the hind-leg and fore-leg, just below the fetlock. 

hitchuvtg a horse. 

To hitch a horse with the driving-rein, take hold of the 
rein about four feet from the end, (it being unbuckled 
at the centre of tlie hand-pieces,) double it up, tuck it 
through the ring of the bridle-bit, and place the loop 
over the bar of the bit. This makes a substantial tie- 
strap. If there is no bar to the bit, take a half-hitch 
over the loop tucked through tlie ring. It will answer 
the same purpose. 

A very common way of hitching throughout the 
Eastern States is to carry in the wagon a weight of 
about thirty-five pounds, with a strap attached ; the 
weight being laid upon the ground and the strap fas- 
tened to the bridle-bit, makes an effective way of 
hitching. 

A very good plan to teacli a horse to stand without 
hitching is to back the wagon up to tlie post and tie it 
by the axle. The horse soon learns to satisfy his un- 
easiness by stepping to the right and left, without at- 
temptiiig to st€p away. 



'iW'- 



TRAINING OF HOKSES. 123 

GENERAL HINTS. 

Match horses with reference to size and motion par- 
ticularly — to color if you can, and have the other re- 
quisites. 

Always have inside lines on double team quite long, 
and back-strap short. 

Never check a horse if you wish to have him last long, 
except while training. 

Feed in loio mangers — water and oats to be given 
firsts hay afterward. 

If worked, very little water to be given in the night. 

Stop at the toi^ of a hill, and let your horse get 
breath. 

The shoe should fit the foot — not the foot fit the shoe. 
Never cut the bars or frogs. 

Wet the hay and 7iot the oats for a coughing horse. 

Never let a horse stand long facing a cold wind. 

Feed light when changing feed. 

When training in a building, have carriages, etc., re- 
moved. 

Always approach a strange horse near the shoulder. 

Use but a few words with a horse, but have them un- 
derstood. 

Be earnest and prompt, but not harsh. 

Teach before whipping, and when whipping do it to 
frighten, not to enrage. 

Never jump from a wagon when your horse is run- 
ning away. More lives and limbs are lost in that way 
than by remaining in the wagon. 



124 TRAINING OF HORSES. 

Exercise sound judgment by purchasing a horse 
suited to the business required of him. Some horses 
are good saddle-horses, but might not make good cart- 
horses. 

If a horse cribs, drive a few three-ounce tacks through 
the throat-latch of his halter, so that the points are in- 
ward toward the neck when the throat-latch is buckled 
moderately tight. As he attempts cribbing, the swell 
of the neck causes him to be pricked, which admonishes 
him to quit. 



TEAIEIE"G CATTLE. 



JBredking Steers. — First, get your steer into a room 
or small yard, so that he can not run from you ; then 
approach him slowly ; and if he runs, do not be in a 
hurry, but wait until he gets to the end of the room or 
yard ; then approach again slowly, as before. A steer 
may run from you in this way several times ; but do not 
try and stop him with your whip, or force him to think 
that he will be at all injured, until he will stand and 
suffer you to approach him. As soon as this is accom- 
plished, gently tie a rope around his_ body near the 
shoulders, rather loosely. Then take another strap or 
rope, and gently fasten one end to the near fore-foot, 
then pass the other end over the rope or surcingle, be- 
neath the body. This rope should be sufficiently long 
to allow him to run to the end of the yard without your 
moving ; at the same time you holding the rope suf- 
ficiently firm to compel him to move on three legs. 
Then approach him again quietly, and so continue until 
he will allow you to approach and handle him as you 
please. Now take a short hold of the strap with your 
left hand, your whip in the right, which pass over his 
shoulders and quietly touch him on the off-side of the 
head, at the same time saying, "Haw!" and continue 
this until he moves his head a little toward you ; then 



126 TRAINING CATTLE. 

Stop and caress him about the neck and head. Repeat 
tliis until he will haw around toward you at the word 
of command. If he attempts to run from you, pull 
upon the strap, saying, "Whoa!" and at the same time 
hitting lightly upon the head with the whip. As soon 
as he learns to stop at the word of command in this 
way, and comes toward you readily, take off the strap 
and the rope around the body, and turn him out. Then 
take the mate and give him the same course of training, 
until you can accomplish a like result with him. Then 
turn him out. By this time the first steer will be cool 
and rested, ready to receive another lesson. Now drive 
him into the inclosure, and repeat his lesson with the 
whip. Then quietly touching him gently on the near 
side of the head, at the same time saying, " Gee !" until 
he will step around from you ; then caress and repeat 
until he will gee or haw readily. Repeat the same 
lesson with his mate, which is all that you should try to 
do with them in half a day. Then take both together 
in the same room or yard, and repeat these lessons until 
they have a thorough understanding of what you mean. 
Then take one of them near the wall, standing by his 
side, hitting him with your whip gently over the head, 
at the same time saying, "Back!" until he will step 
back, for whicli caress. Repeat this until he will go 
back readily at the word. Give the other steer the 
same lesson. This course of training will make your 
steers quite obedient, and Avilling to haAV, gee, or back, 
which will be all that you should require of them for 
one day's lesson. When convenient, repeat the lesson 
with both together. Then place the yoke upon them 
and let them go for an hour or two, or sufficiently long 
to become reconciled to the restraint of the yoke. Then 
repeat your lesson in the open yard until they fully 



TRAINING CATTLE. 127 

understaud what you require of them while yoked 
together. 

If your steers have learned to run away from you, 
which is a common result of the ordinary method of 
training, put on the rope and strap to the foot. If 
hitched to a Avagon or sled, let your man hold the foot- 
strap, which run back between the steers, and the 
moment they attempt to run away,*he pulls up their 
feet, while you whip tliem over the head, Avhich will 
stop them immediately, and in a short time break up the 
habit. 

Kicldng Covjs. — It is natural for the cow to stand 
while being milked ; consequently the heifer knows 
nothing about kicking until hurt or frightened into it. 
The lesson in regard to heifers is therefore perfectly 
plain. Be careful and not hurt or frighten them. If by 
accident you should, and they kick, do not punish them 
for it. Kindness and gentle handling is the only remedy. 
If your cow kicks, let your reasoning for the cause be 
based upon the principle that she never kicked until she 
was injured, and the remedy will at once suggest itself. 
No cow was ever broken of kicking by striking with 
the stool or other weapon. This practice only puts the 
cow on her guard, and as you come near her with the 
stool she uses nature's defense, and kicks. Handle her 
gently. If she walks off or kicks, pay no attention to 
it, using no loud words or blows. If her teats are sore, 
she is quite liable to do either ; and you must have 
patience until they are healed. In our experience, we 
have never found a confirmed kicker in a yard where 
kindness was a characteristic of the family who handled 
the dairy ; on the contrary, we have found plenty of 
them where quarreling, loud words, and general bad 
temper prevailed. 



TEAIJSriKG DOGS. 



The dog is the most domestic and intelligent of all 
animals. He is easy to teach, and, if properly used, is a 
faithful and willinoj servant of man: if abused and ill- 
treated, he is quite apt to be disagreeable and a nuisance. 
The dog being so closely a companion of mankind, it 
becomes a duty to educate him in such a manner that he 
will reflect credit upon his master, and be an agreeable 
inmate of the household as well as a useful assistant. 
We have given much attention to this subject, it being 
one which can not fail to interest those who give it 
thoughtful application. We have had two of the best 
trained dogs, probably, ever known in this country, and 
at the present writing have a greyhound which under- 
stands to obey thirty-two diflerent words, and we always 
found a pleasure in teaching them. The rules whereby 
any one who will be patient, kind, and persevering, can 
educate dogs to be useful as well as to perform pleasing 
tricks, are easily understood. We give a few, sufficient 
to lead the operator to the practice of many more. 
There are of course as many different traits and dis- 
positions of dogs, as there are different breeds, and 
judgment will be required in teaching the dog, to train 
him to that to which he is best adapted by nature. For 
instance, a Terrier will catch rats, while a Setter will 
Bcent birds, without training ; the St. Bernard is a faith- 



'^v; 

' y >> 



TRAINING DOGS. 129 

ful watchman, and the Greyhound takes to running, from 
his birth. These natural traits it is necessary to have 
in mind in attempting to teach the dog, being careful in 
not urging upon him the performance of any duties or 
tricks which are manifestly not in his nature to do. In 
selecting dogs for any particular lesson, study this sub- 
ject closely. As probably the most useful lesson to be 
taught, we commence witli 

TRAINING THE SHEPHERD TO DRIVE. 

Take a well-bred Shepherd-dog, about six months old, 
reared in some secluded place, hearing no words with a 
meaning intended to be attached, except his name. He 
should know nothing of the ordinary words in use 
toward dogs, and not have been handled by boys or 
careless persons. Take him alone with you in a large 
room. Tlie first thing to be done is to teach him to lead ; 
placing a strap around his neck that can not hurt him, to 
which attach a cord six or eight feet in length ; stand 
still and hold upon the cord, for a few minutes, until he 
ceases struggling to get away. It is best to give one 
lesson each day during the whole training. The first 
two lessons should be devoted to teaching him that he 
can not get away. Now commence teaching him to 
come to you by pulling upon the rope and saying, 
'"''Here P using only the one word. 

In the use of this as well as all other words used in 
teaching the dog, one word is all that is best to try and 
teach him for any one act^ it being so difficult to make 
him understand if you attempt to teach him more. 
When he is once fixed in the habit of minding the 
word, you may then use such other words in connection 
therewith as are pleasant to the ear, as, for instance, 



130 TEAINING DOGS. 

*' Come here^ sir !" Without the word here he will not 
know what you mean, and the others, heing meaningless 
to him, do not puzzle him. lie will also be less liable to 
have too many masters, as the one word will not be 
likely to be used every time by a person unacquainted 
with your mode of training. Of course, if you prefer 
it, you may, in giving the lesson, substitute other words 
for t^.ose laid down; but we give those which are the 
readiest to the tongue. 

As the dog comes up, whether voluntarily or not, say, 
" Do .^" and caress him. A lesson of an hour or two, 
working slowly and patiently, will be about right each 
time. Proceed with it until he will come to you from 
any portion of the room at the word " here." He 
will have learned by this time, probably, that the word 
" do " is for him to understand that you are through 
with him. When he perfectly realizes this, you may 
then prefix words, and say, " That will cZo," emphasizing 
upon the word do each time. You may also now say, 
" Come here .'"' remembering that the words here and do 
are the only ones he obeys. He can not connect words 
to form sentences, or be made to understand them wlien 
thus connected. 

You now wish to teach him the words " Go " and 
^'' Halt!''' To do this, you will place yourself in a posi- 
tion of the room opposite to where the dog would 
naturally desire to go, (for instance, the door, or some- 
thing which Avould attract him, such as food.) Say, 
'' Go !" and by coaxing and urging him, start him along ; 
as he gets part of the way, say, " Halt !" pull upon the 
string, stopping him, and say, " Halt!" again. Proceed 
with this until he has learned to obey both the words 
"go" and "halt." To teach these four words named 
will generally take three or four weeks. Now teach 



TRAINING DOGS. 131 

him to bark at the Avord " speak," by holding up some- 
thing wliich he wants very much, for instance, food, 
when he is quite liungry. You may now let him loose 
and let him run about with you, {^premoiidy keeping 
him confined, but not in a narrow place,) being watch- 
ful that he does not stray oiF, nor be hurt or handled by 
others. lie will soon become handy about the house. 
You having control of him through the words you have 
taught him, you can keep him in his place by word of 
command. For instance, if you wish him to go out of 
doors, show him the door and say, " Go out !" The word 
" go " will start him, and in a little while he will be- 
come familiar with the word "out." Let him have a 
fixed place to sleep, and teach him its name. If you 
have a dog already trained to drive and go behind^ take 
him out with him to drive in the cattle. lie will thus 
learn that they will run from him. Say nothing to him 
while he is Avith the other dog, unless he attempts to go 
to the head of any of the cattle. This you must not 
allow. After two or three times take him out without 
the other dog, and allow him to run after the cattle, pro- 
vided the cattle are used to being driven by dogs. It 
will not do to let him run where there is a chance of 
his being turned upon. If he runs them too fast, say, 
" Steady I^'' He will not know what you mean, but as 
you use words with him only when they mean some- 
thing^ he will be apt to pay attention and go slower. 
If he does not, say "Halt !" then " Go !" steadying him 
by the word " Steady !" if possible. He will gradually 
learn its meaning by its repetition. If you have no 
other dog, you will let him go without, being more 
watchful of him that he does not go to the head of the 
cattle. Otherwise say nothing to him except " Go 1" 
not letting him start mitil he gets the word, After a 



132 TEAINING DOGS. 

while you may proceed to practice upon the other words 
he knows. If he shows no disposition to bite at the 
heels, or pull at the tail, take a rope and tie a knot a short 
distance up, fringe out the end, and play with hira with 
the rope, letting him catch hold of it, and cause him to 
bark at it by using the word " Speak." When he takes 
hold of the rope say, " Up ! " and when you Avish him to 
let go, "J9o .^" You may then, with a slow cow, call him 
up, and, taking hold of the tail, say " f/p," and ">Sp6«^'," 
to teach him to take hold of the tail and bark, when you 
say, " Start 'em ifp f^ and " /Speak to them !" and to let 
go when you say, '' That will do ! " Now accustom him 
to the word '■^Fetch " for sheep, and " Oet " for cattle, 
etc. ; so that when you say, "6ro and get the cattle !" he 
knows you mean cattle, instead of sheep or horses. 
You may now teach him to know the right from the left, 
and to obey your orders in that resj^ect, by taking him 
into a large room, and by the motion of your right hand 
try to have him go to the right from you, saying, 
"• Go "— " Right !" If he does not do it, say, " Halt !" 
and repeat. When he does do it, say, "That will (fo.'" 
Continue this until he will go to the right at the motion 
of your hand and the word *' Right ;" then with your 
left hand making motions, and the word " Left," you 
teach him the opposite. By these motions and an appeal 
to the intelligence of the dog by your countenance and 
eyes, you can start him for the fields in any direction you 
choose, and he soon learns to do vour wants with very 
little telling. Following these rules will satisfy you that 
the dog can be taught indefinitely respecting all things 
which pertain to his peculiar nature. 

THE WATCH-DOG. 

for a good watch-dog select one of a breed adapted 



TEAINING DOGS. 133 

to the business. There is but little that you can teach 
such an one, as it is somewhat of a natural trait ; and 
any other than a natural watch-clog, however much 
you may labor with him, will never be reliable. A 
barking dog, one that will be noisy on the approach of 
intruders, is the best ; a dog that bites but does not 
bark is only fit to put in barns or other out-buildings 
nights, chaining him up day-times ; and then he is 
dangerous, even to his keeper, as a sudden start will 
cause him to bite any one. To teach your dog, give him 
something to watch, saying, " Take care of it !" as you 
place him near the object. He will soon learn the Avord, 
and upon being directed to any particular thing, will 
faithfully guard it. While teaching him allow no one 
but yourself to approach him without setting him. on. 
You may have a stranger approach him and tease him, 
you urging him to drive the person away, and as soon 
as he starts, let the person run, you calling the dog 
back. While young do not compel him to stay too long 
at one thing, and when you go up to him say, " That will 
do I " feeding him something. After the manner sjDoken 
of in the previous illustration, whenever you Avish the 
dog to bite or go at any person or thing, you will teach 
him words the reverse of what you mean, such as, " Be 
still," "Get out," "Lie down." You will see that a 
person not understanding the dog will not be very apt 
to get near him, as he would naturally make use of those 
words, and they would be setting him on, instead of 
quieting him. To call him yourself, use such convenient 
word as you choose, but not one naturally used by 
others. As this ingenious use of words is about the 
only new idea we can suggest to teach Watch Dogs, the 
master can exercise his own ingenuity to render it 
practical. 



134 TRAINING DOGS. 

THE tkick: dog. 

Many amusing tricks may be taught wliicli will ex- 
hibit in a wonderful degree the intelligence of the dog. 
As we have before said, much depends upon the breed. 
A dog of one peculiar breed may be taught a certain 
class of tricks, Avhile that of another breed will be 
entirely different in his characteristics. A well-bred 
dog is hard to teach any tricks excCj^, u those pertaining 
to his nature, while a mongrel cur is qui'e easy to teach 
any. Perhaps a Spaniel-poodle dog is the most tract- 
able of any, though a black-and-tan is quite apt. We 
give a few examples, sufficient to form a groundwork 
for the intelligent operator to extend the list of tricks 
at his pleasure. We begin with a lesson 

TO TEACH HIM TO SIT UP. 

Set him up in the corner, and with a switch hit him 
lightly under the mouth, snapping your finger and say- 
ing, ^''Sit up ! " As he comes down put him back and 
repeat until he will remain, which he will do in a few 
minutes ; then say, " That Avill do ! " and coax him down 
and caress him. When he has learned this sufficiently, 
set him up against a wall and try the same thing ; this 
will require more patience, as he can so easily get over 
to either side. When, however, he will do it, then take 
him out in the centre of the floor ; this will take still 
longer ; but if followed up kindly and perseveringly, he 
will learn to perform the trick at the word and the snap- 
ping of the finger. 

TO TEACH HIM TO SIT DOWK". 

Press your hand upon his back toward his hind-legs 
and say, "/S7^ doion I " at the same time tapping with 



TEAINING DOGS. 135 

your foot upon the floor. If he attempts to lie down or 
draw his feet under him, scare him up, and teach him 
that " sit down " is what you are after, tapping him 
under the chin to keep his head w^ell up. He will, after 
a few lessons, sit down at the word and a tapping of 
your foot on the floor. 

TO STAND UP. 

Take some food in your hands and ofler it to him, 
holding it well up, and say, '■''Stand up .'"' Repeat this 
until he will stand up quite readily, holding out your 
unoccupied hand for him to support his fore-feet on. 
Gradually take away your hand, each time that he comes 
up, sayings " Stand up !" Then take him by the for- 
ward feet and lift him uj? quite hard, and say, " Stand 
up !" Y(5u will soon get him so that when you lift him 
he will straighten up and show signs of standing ; then 
make the efibrt to teach him to stand up at the word 
and the holding out of your hand. You may now com- 
bine tliis witli the last two tricks, saying, " Sit up !" 
"Stand up!" " Sit down !" " That will do !" These are 
the first tricks he should be taught, as they are the 
foundation for others. 

TO GET INTO A CHAIR. 

This is very easily done, taking your own way to coax 
him into the chair, using the word "C/j^«V" whenever 
you cause him to get into it. When he becomes familiar 
with the word, accompanied with a motion of the hand 
toward a chair, you may use other words in connection 
therewith, as, " Go and get up into the chair ! " After he 
will do this handy, you may then teach him to put his 
paws upon the back of the chair, by asking him to 
" Put them iqy ! " or saying, " Zjp f' assisting him at first. 



I^Q TRAINING DOGS. 

When he will do it readily, you may teach him to put 
his head down upon his paws, by placing it there, and 
repeating the word " Down," of course caressing him 
each time that he complies. To have him hold his head 
up, tap him under the mouth and say, " Up .-'" remember- 
ing to say, " That will do / " when you are through with 
the trick. You may now teach him to jump over the 
chair by playfully coaxing him to do so, saying, 
" Jump !" 

TO MAKE HIM GO LAMS. 

Tap him with a little rod upon the hind-foot, saying, 
"Xame.^" teaching him to stand and hold it up whenever 
you say " lame." Now coax him along, and if he puts 
it down, hit him quite smartly on the foot, making him 
keej^ it up until he w^ill go lame at the word and a 
motion of the rod. ISTow, whenever you send him into 
the chair, as before, as he goes to jump down, stop him, 
teaching him to wait for the word "7>o." As he comes 
down with his fore-feet on the floor say, '■'' /Steady /^^ and 
teach him to stoj) with his hind-legs up in the chair. 
He is now ready 

TO RUN ON HIS FORWARD LEGS. 

To teach him this, take hold of his hind-legs, lift them 
up and walk him around in a circle, and place them in 
a chair, saying, ''^ Mound f'' Do this every time you per- 
form the trick of having him get into the chair. After 
a while take him by the tail and lift him up, and, 
switching his hind-legs lightly, walk him around in 
the same manner, saying, '-''Round P'' as before. With 
patience and perseverance he W'ill learn to lift up his 
hind-legs at the motion of the whip, and at the words, 
" Go around .-'" perform a circle, walking on his forward 



TEAIXIXG DOGS. 137 

feet, and j^lace his hind-feet in the chair ; of course the 
height of the chair must be adapted to the length of the 
doo-'s lesjs. 

TO SIT ON A STOOL. 

It is now very easy to teach him to "s^^ down'''' on a 
low stool. You may then teach him to " Take a seat " 
on the stool by leading him around by his forward feet, 
and setting him on the stool with his forward feet held 
up, saying, " Seat !" You then have him taught to go 
on all-fours and sit down on the stool, and to go on his 
hind-feet and take, a seat^ with his forward feet up. 

TO TEACH HIM TO FIND THINGS. 

Take something with which he is accustomed to play, 
and after getting him enlivened with play, call him up 
to you and blindfold him, and throw the article a short 
distance from you. If the dog has good scent, tell him 
you have *' lostf then remove the blindfold and he will 
search and find it. Repeat this, throwing it farther 
each time, until you can throw your knife or any thing 
which you have held in your hand, at a distance, you 
looldng in the direction, and saying, " I have lost my 
knife." He will search until he finds and brings it to 
you. If the dog has not good scent, teach him to look 
down at the word '"'•find^'' and up at the word '•''up^^ 
doing as before. 

We have now given a sufiicient number of examples 
to set forth the important rules which govern the teach- 
ing of dogs. By an observance of these you may teach 
your dog to climb ladders, fetch things to you, carry 
baskets, roll over, lie down, shut doors, and an almost 
innumerable number of tricks. To teach the dog, how- 
ever, you must have perfect control over your tempei", 
never whip severely, and never get out of patience. 



SHOEING. 



The object in shoeing liorscs is to prevent the hoofs 
from being broken or otherwise injured, as would natu- 
rally result from driving over our hard roads unpro- 
tected in this manner. It has often been remarked, 
and truly so, that " No foot, no horse," which literally 
means, a horse without sound feet is of but little value. 
The feet are the basis upon which the whole superstruc- 
ture rests, a beautiful and complicated piece of mechan- 
ism, and, like all complicated machinery, easily deranged ; 
hence the necessity of preserving it in a healthy state, 
to accomplish which, shoeing has been instituted, which, 
wiien properly done, has the desired effect. The shoe 
has two very important offices to perform : 1st, to pre- 
serve the hoof in its natural shape ; 2d, to protect it 
from injury. In order to properly understand the prin- 
ciples of shoeing, it is necessary that we should under- 
stand the structure of the horse's foot, and with this 
view we will briefly consider its anatomical relations. 
The hoof, or horny case, is the first object claiming our 
attention, which, for convenience of description, has 
been divided thus : the crust or wall, the sole, and the 
bars. The crust or wall is that part which covers the 
anterior or front part of the foot, attached above to the 
skin at the termination of the hairs. This upper mar- 
gin is termed the coronet. The crust or wall, internally, 



SHOEING. 130 

is made up of numerous horny laminm^ which are very soft 
and elastic in their character. The sole is the ground 
surface of the hoof, anterior to the bars and frog. The 
bars are reflected processes of the wall passing obliquely 
across the bottom of the foot on either side of the frog, 
giving support to the heels. The internal surfaces are 
covered in part by horny laminm or plates, but are less 
numerous in proportion to the surface covered than are 
those of the crust or wall. The wall is divided into 
the toe, the quarter, and the heel. The toe is the front 
part of the hoof, the quarters are the central j^arts of 
the wall on either side, and the heels are the posterior 
portions of the crust or wall, being the thinner and 
weaker parts. This horny case in its natural condition 
is quite elastic, thus preserving the whole animal frame 
from concussion. The frog is a triangular, elastic cush- 
ion situated between the bars, and filling up the entire 
triangular space between the quarters and heels, com- 
pleting the ground surface of the foot. The internal 
surface of the frog is very irregular, presenting three 
elevations and two depressions. The central ridge or 
division extends from before backward and upward. 
The two depressions between these ridges receive the 
soft cushion or ligamentous frog. The foot internally 
comprises the coffin, navicular, and lower part of the 
coronary or small postern bones, also ligaments, carti- 
lages, the sensitive laminm, sole, and frog. The coronet 
or small postern bone is nearly square, presenting four 
surftices, the upper, for articulating with the large ^:>o,9- 
tern, having an elevation in its centre, forming with tlie 
large postern a kind of hinge-joint. By this arrange- 
ment strength is added to the parts. The lower sur- 
face is concave in the centre, which uniting with the 
coffin and navicular bones, forms another hinge-joint of 



140 SHOEING. 

Still greater strength. The coffin-bone is serai-lunar in 
form — the front surface is convex, the ground and pos- 
terior surfaces are concave. The projections behind on 
either side are called the alae or wings, to which are 
attached the lateral cartilages, which extend upward 
and backward, and are readily discovered by placing 
the fingers above the hoof at the quarters. The navicu- 
lar bone completes the bones of the foot, situated pos- 
teriorily between the coffin and coronary bones, form- 
ing what is commonly known as the coffin or navicu- 
lar joint. It is semi-oval in form, presenting four sur- 
faces, the upi^er articulating Avith the coronary, the an- 
terior with the coffin-bone ; the loAver, over which the 
perforans tendon or back sinew plays, has a much 
broader surface than either of the others. Posterior 
and under these bones, we have the ligamentous 
frog ; between this frog and the sole we have the 
sensitive frog ; covering the anterior surface of the 
coffin-bone we find a very delicate structure, known 
as the sensitive laminoe, which is very vascular and 
largely supplied with minute nerves. Tliis laminated 
structure corresponds to that of the hoof, and when 
adjusted, fills up the entire circle of the hoof I deem 
it unnecessary to go into a more minute description of 
the parts, as it would be uninteresting to the general 
reader. To those who feel interested in the subject of 
shoeing, great benefit will be derived by a careful peru- 
sal of these remarks. 

It has been proven by long experience, that the sen- 
sitive parts within the hoof do not sufier so long as the 
bearing of the animal is confined to the crust or wall, but 
when removed from that bearing they soon become dis- 
eased ; hence if the sole of the foot bear against the shoe 
in any considerable degree, the fleshy or inner sole be- 



SHOEING. 141 

comes bruised between the shoe and the horny sole 
below and the coffin-bone above — the horse soon be- 
comes lame in consequence. It is obvious, therefore, 
that the crust or wall being the natural bearing of the 
horse's foot, it should be carefully protected, and confine 
the bearing of the shoe to that part of the foot. A shoe 
of the breadth of the crust would defend the foot suffi- 
ciently as long as it would last ; but in consequence of 
its rapid wear, such a shoe would only be applicable for 
racing, or temporary purposes. To give all the sup- 
port the crust can receive, and at the same time to make 
the shoe sufficiently strong to wear a reasonable time, 
the upper surface of the shoe should be divided into two 
parts. The first or outer margin should be perfectly level, 
and of the width of the crust ; the second, the inner mar- 
gin, beveled inward so as to avoid pressure upon the 
sole, leaving the heels of the shoe perfectly level from the 
last nail-hole backward. It must be borne in mind 
that no one form of shoe is applicable to all forms and 
conditions of the feet. The above shoe is intended only 
for the healthy foot — as it deviates from that standard, 
so must the form and bearing of the shoe be altered to 
meet the altered conditions as they occur in the horse's 
foot. To more clearly illustrate this subject is only to 
refer to the injuries of shoeing as ordinarily practiced. 
Examine, if you please, the ordinary shoe used on all 
occasions, and upon all forms and conditions of the 
feet ; place a level across the heels, and you find the 
shoe at the quarters presents a concave surface, being 
beveled from without inward ; hence the foots rests in 
a concavity. When such a shoe is nailed to the foot, it 
presents a lateral resistance to the natural expansion of 
the foot, it being impossible for the heels to expand 
up these inclined planes ; hence the tendency to force 



142 SHOEING. 

them inward, so that they gradually become contract- 
ed. This is a natural result, and follows, sooner or later, 
every case where shoes have been thus contraction. On 
the other hand, shoes properly made and fitted have 
never been known to cause contraction. If we ob- 
serve the foot in the early stages of contraction, we find 
this horny case gradually becoming less ; it no longer 
accommodates itself to the soft structure within its 
limits ; the result is, concussion is greater, and the 
elasticity very much less ; in consequence of which the 
parts become bruised, fever ensues, which still fur- 
ther facilitates contraction of the hoof by absorbing its 
moisture, and we soon discover lameness in consequence 
of corns making their appearance. The first efiect of 
contraction is to bruise the sensitive portion of the 
hoof. Particularly is this the case at that part of the 
foot formed by the crust and bars, causing a contused 
bruise which is called a corn. This occurs on the inside 
quarter. The crust and bar forming a triangular space 
causes a two-fold pressure upon the sensitive parts 
within, acting like a vice ; and as the sj^ace becomes 
diminished the contusion becomes greater, the hoof 
becomes more hard and brittle, with a strong tendency 
to crack on very slight concussion. On removing a 
portion of the horn at the part of the foot indicated, Ave 
find a red spot, sometimes slightly, at other times of a 
brownish or bluish-red appearance. The feet in the latter 
stage are in such a condition as to require prompt at- 
tention, or we may have a sinus forming through the 
quarter, producing a disease known as quitter, often 
terminating in permanent lameness, and frequently in 
deformity. Few men believe corns to be of so serious 
a nature ; hence their readiness to attribute these efiects 
to other causes. When they investigate, as I have done, 



SHOEING. 143 

they will find their error. Ossification, navicular-joint 
disease, founder, and a variety of other diseases, are 
frequently due to contraction of the feet. Another evil 
in shoeing, which is calculated to do much mischief, is 
the fitting of the shoe to the foot while red hot. This 
has been a source of complaint throughout all Europe. 
In this country there is little thought of it, to such an 
extent does the practice prevail. The application of tlie 
shoe in this condition, if performed by a careless work- 
man, frequently is the cause of much miscliief, and un- 
der the most favorable circumstances, performed with all 
possible care, causes an unhealthy secretion of horn for 
a long time after, rendering the animal less sure-footed, 
and often causes lameness to follow its application. The 
shoe should in all cases be fitted to the foot, and not the 
foot to the shoe. This of course would be attended with 
more labor ; hence the unwillingness of smiths to do it. 
Better would it be for the owner to pay double the price 
for shoeing his horse than to have injury done by the 
application of the red-hot shoe. In almost all European 
countries, within the last few years, the smith has been 
much benefited by the rapid advances made toward per- 
fecting this important branch of labor, mainly through 
the eflbrts of our professors in the various veterinary 
colleges pointing out, as they have done, the evils of 
this shoe and the benefits of that one. 

The varieties worthy of mention are as follows : Prof. 
Coleman's frog-bar shoe, James Turner's unilateral shoe, 
Mr. Friend's frog-pressure shoe, and Mr. Percival's san- 
dal. Many other varieties have been introduced from 
time to time, requiring no special remark in a work like 
this. Prof Coleman's frog-bar shoe consists of a cir- 
cular piece of iron, flat on the upper side, about half an 
inch thick, broader back than front, so as to afibrd pro- 



144 SHOEING. 

tectioii and limited pressure upon the frog, the under 
surface being nearly flat ; the shoe is secured by four 
nails on either side. This shoe, in some cases, answers 
a very good purpose in protecting tender feet from con- 
cussion. 

Jan:es Turner's unilateral shoe differs only in its appli- 
cation from the shoe described for healthy feet. It is 
nailed to the foot, free on the inside, having six nails on 
the outside and two on the inside toe, with a level bear- 
ing for the crust and heels. Mr. Friend's shoe is designed 
for the communication of frog pressure. It differs from 
Mr. Coleman's by having the frog-bar separated from 
the shoe and suspended by a leathern sole — the object of 
which is also for tender and sore-footed horses. 

Mr. Percival's sandal, as originally made, consisted of 
a shoe and several web bandages, with buckles attached, 
by which means it was secured to the foot. For many 
years it was applied in this manner, and supposed to be 
as perfect in itself as man was capable of making it. 
More recently, however, Mr. Percival conceiving an idea 
of its application by means of India-rubber bands, com- 
menced a series of experiments which resulted in the 
adoption of an endless India-rubber band. This was an 
improvement at once simple and much to be desired, 
rendering its application more firm, and less liable to be- 
come deranged. This sandal is not intended for general 
purposes, but only to supply the place of a lost shoe on 
the road, it being readily applied, and affording equal 
protection to the foot. 

Mr. Goodwin, of London, invented a shoe which has 
been much extolled. This shoe is concave on the ground 
surface — supposed to have a greater effect in getting 
a firm foothold — the upper surface being flat, ex- 
cept at the heels, which are slightly beveled outward, 



SHOEING. 145 

to facilitate the expansive tendency of the feet. This 
principle, as far as the bearing surface is concerned, I 
believe to be the best plan yet discovered for expanding 
contracted feet, having witnessed the beneficial effects 
of its application in a large number of cases always with 
advantage. Great care must be taken that the bevel is 
little more than a level bearing, as it would do much 
mischief if beveled sufficiently to force the heels. 

PREPARING THE FOOT. 

The subject of paring has not escaped the fatality 
which seems to have attended every matter connected 
with the foot. The most 023posite and contradictory 
opinions have been expressed regarding it. Where such 
extremes exist, a line drawn between the two is usually 
the most correct. We will therefore assume that position. 
In a state of nature (and we must take her as our guide) 
the growth of the hoof is about equal to its wear. When 
the shoe is upon it this wear is prevented. Our object, 
then, in paring the foot is to make the removal of the 
hoof equal to the growth of the foot. Where this prin- 
ciple is not observed, we see the effects of not paring in 
some horses whose shoes are allowed to remain on the 
feet for some months without being removed — the crust 
becomes unusually long, the sole thick, the animal trip- 
ping at every step. These cases prove the necessity of 
proper paring as a substitute for the natural wear of the 
hoof when unshod. In preparing the foot for the shoe, 
care should be taken to remove all the old stubs, the 
crust should be lowered from the toe to the heel with 
the rasp, and the sole should then be carefully pared 
jvith the drawing-knife. The bars and the frog require to 
be trimmed out, removing only ragged or loose por- 



146 SHOEING. 

tions, or such parts as may conceal dirt or other matter 
producing unbealtby action. 

APPLICATION OF THE SHOE. 

In applying the shoe to the foot it should not be set 
back half or three quarters of an inch from the toe — 
tbe j)i*ojecting Y>avts of the wall cut away as is usually 
the custom. The shoe should be carried fully to the 
outei margin of the wall. Thus we preserve tlie wall 
entire, giving its full bearing surface for the shoe, pre- 
serving the wall uninjured. By removing any por- 
tion of the crust it is weakened in exact proportion as it 
is cut away, reducing the space for driving the nails, 
and increasing the danger of pricking ; or, what is as 
bad, driving the nails too close, to say nothing of the 
change from the natural form of the foot. It is these 
abuses which compel us to regard shoeing the great 
evil of his domestication. The nails should be properly 
pointed, and not driven too liigh up — care should be 
taken to have them as regular as possible. Three 
nails on the inside and four on the outside are usu- 
ally all that are required for any purj^ose. Clips, if used 
at all, should be small, otherwise they are the frequent 
cause of an obscure lameness, which is very difficult to 
manage. The mischief is done by tlie horn in its down- 
ward growth meeting with the resistance which tbe clip 
offers, hence the horn is turned inward upon the inside 
toe, causing pressure upon the sensitive lamime and cof- 
fin-bone, causing inflammation, and, from pressure, the 
bone is absorbed at the toe, while the soft tissues under- 
go other permanent alterations of structure, alike de- 
structive of the animal's usefulness. 



SHOEING. 147 



INTERFEKING. 



Our first object is to ascertain, if possible, the cause 
of interfering, and the part which strikes, whether the 
shoe or the foot. Many horses strike from weakness, or 
long continued exertion. Particularly is this the case in 
young animals. Others cut from faulty conformation of 
the limbs — the toes turning in or out too much is a fre- 
quent cause. By applying chalk to the foot which cuts, 
we readily discover the precise part of the foot which 
does the injury. Having satisfied ourselves of this, we 
must for once deviate from our rule in shoeing, by mak- 
ing the shoe straight on its edge at the part indicated, 
cutting down tlie crust level with it. By this means the 
feet frequently work clear. Where this does not succeed, 
the shoe should be widened in the web at the point where 
the foot strikes, but not thickened, as is too often done ; 
the natural bearing of tlie foot must be preserved. 
Should this, too, fail, there is no resort but a strip of 
India-rubber, placed between the shoe and the foot, 
projecting at least a quarter of an inch beyond the shoe. 
This being soft and elastic, it will not bruise the part 
struck by the shoe or foot, giving it time to heal, and 
cause the animal to work clear in traveling. Either one 
of these plans is successful, if properly applied, in a 
majority of ca^es ; yet all are unsuccessful in a few 
cases of natural deformity, or faulty conformation in 
the limbs. 

OVERREACHING. 

Many persons regard overreaching as an indication of 
a bad horse, yet we are compelled to recognize it as a 
fault in some of the best. It frequently occurs with 
young horses, on a moderate gait, and disappears alto- 
gether on increasing the speed of the animal. It arises 



148 SHOEING. 

from too great activity of the hind-legs, the fore ones 
not being able to get out of the way in time. This 
habit is often brought on by too heavy shoeing in front, 
and too light shoeing behind. By reversing this princi- 
ple I have found it to answer an excellent purpose. 
Where this habit is allowed to go unchecked, the heels 
often become bruised, and in some instances the shoes 
are torn off from the front-feet, causing much mischief 
to arise in consequence. This habit, too, like interfer- 
ing, occurs in young horses after severe driving, from 
becoming leg-weary, a circumstance which should be 
carefully avoided, as habits are easily formed, but often 
most difficult to be got rid of. The preservation of the 
horse's feet depends very much upon careful and skiirful 
application of the shoe, independently of its being con- 
structed on correct principles. Many horses with very 
bad feet are enabled to go sound for many years by 
careful shoeing, while a bungling hand would render the 
same animal unfit for service in a single shoeing. It 
requires considerable tact to fit a shoe properly on a bad 
or weak foot, so as to protect it from injury. 

STOPPING THE FEET. 

The hoofs of horses standing upon plank floors soon 
become excessively dry and hard, unless artificial means 
are resorted to to prevent it ; and if shod in this state, 
it is almost impossible for the smith to pare them. The 
opponents of stopping, and there are a few, offer as an 
objection that it sometimes tends to produce thrush. 
This I do not pretend to deny where such stopping as 
cow-dung is resorted to, but it does not occur when lin- 
seed-meal is used for that purpose. This certainly is the 
best and cleanest application, and can be used several 
times by softening with a little water. To keep the soles 



SHOEING. 149 

moist and healthy, the feet should be stopped every night 
in the summer, and every third night in winter. If the 
crust is brittle, as is frequently the case, it is a good 
plan to apply a mixture of tar, lard, and turpentine, 
equal parts, to the hoof. 

SHOEING HORSES FOE CORNS. 

Care must be taken that the corn be well cut out, and 
a little butter of antimony or muriatic acid applied to 
the part affected. The hoof from the corn backward 
must be cut away so that no part of the heel strikes the 
shoe, avoiding pressure, and relieving the part from 
unnecessary concussion. A horse thus shod, no matter 
how bad his corns may be, will travel sound, and with 
perfect ease, that otherwise shod would be decidedly 
lame. 

SHOEING FOR QUARTER-CRACK. 

To remedy this evil requires care and judgment. A 
horse should be shod upon the same principle pre- 
cisely as for corns — a bar-shoe, often recommended, is 
unnecessary. Properly shod, there will be but little 
trouble in growing out a sound hoof The least j^res- 
sure upon the heel of the shoe will be sufficient to pre- 
A^ent the hoof from growing down, and thus defeat any 
efforts which may be made toward remedying the in- 
jury. So soon as three eighths or half an inch of new 
horn has grown down, the roof should be burned with 
a red-hot iron just above the crack, at right angles with 
it, which w^ill prevent its breaking up anew. A little 
tar or hoof ointment should be kept upon the part, which 
will protect it from dirt, and assist in hastening the 
growth of the new horn, usually requiring from six to 
nine months for the crack to grow out. 



DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 



INFLAMMATIOET, 



From Inflcmimo^ to burn, is one of the most common 
forms of disease presented to the Veterinary Surgeon, 
and regarding which many erroneous opinions have pre- 
vailed, in consequence of which much injury and often 
serious consequences have resulted. Sound medical 
practice must be based upon sound medical principles. 
A correct understandins; of the terra inflammation will 
assist us very materially in understanding the pathology 
of diseases in their most complicated forms. A few 
years since, every form of disease occurring in our do- 
mestic animals was regarded and treated as some form 
of inflammation ; purging and bleeding were the order 
of the day. How diflerent the practice of the present 
time ! 

The manner in which inflammation has been written 
upon has made it a subject perfectly bewildering to the 
general reader, and from its being associated with every 
tiling in actual practice, no idea of a very definite kind 
with regard to it will for a long time occur to his mind. 
With a view to overcome this difliculty, we Avill give the 
most simple definition of the term inflammation. It is, 
'''' Aw unnatural or perverted action of and in the capillary 
blood-vessels of a part; attended with redness, throb- 



DISEASES OF THE HOKSE. 151 

bing, swelling, pain, heat and disorder of function, with 
change in both its fluid and solid constituents, as well 
as with more or less general disturbance of the system." 
The extent to which structures in a state of inflammation 
will swell, varies considerably, depending upon the vital 
and physical characters of the tissues involved. Muscu- 
lar tissue becomes very much swollen, while, on the other 
hand, horny and cartilaginous tissues swell but little, in 
consequence of their low state of vitality. It must be 
remembered that it requires an assemblage of the above 
conditions to constitute inflammation. Swelling, pain, 
heat, or redness alone do not constitute that condition, 
as either may occur from causes independent of any in- 
flammatory action whatever. 

We now feel prepared to proceed with our remarks 
upon the various diseases with which the horse is afflict- 
ed, with a better understanding regarding the interest 
of our readers, than we would have done had we passed 
this subject by unnoticed. 

Capillaries. — The blood is the pabulum from whence 
is elaborated the entire organism, as well as the source 
from whence are derived all the various secretions and ex- 
cretions of the system ; but in order that these purposes 
may be accomplished, it is necessary for the fluid in 
question to be circulated through, or its materials 
brought in contact with, every tissue requiring fresh nu- 
trition, as well as through the various secretory and 
excretory organs. To effectually accomplish this, we 
find a class of structures set apart and admirably adapt- 
ed in every way to fulfill the purposes required. The 
first of these is the heart itself; next come the large 
blood conduits, the arteries, which spring from the former, 
as the tree springs from the earth ; wdiile the arteries, 
again, terminate in a series of vessels of wonderful 



152 DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 

minuteness, just as the "boughs of a tree terminate in the 
twigs. These minute vessels are denominated capillaries. 
These capillaries ramify, and are placed in the most in- 
timate relation with every tissue throughout the body- 
within whose substance reproduction and decay are in 
perpetual operation, as well as with those organs whose 
duty it is to furnish or separate the secretions and ex- 
cretions already referred to. Each tissue selects from 
the common pabulum — the blood — thus sent to it, the 
peculiar principle it requires to support its own life and 
integrity. 

The usual terminations of inflammation are resolution, 
mortification, suppuration, ulceration, hemorrhage, ef- 
fusion, hepatization, and ossification. By resolution is 
meant the state of the tissues after their recovery from 
the effects of inflammation. 

Mortification is loss of vitality or death of the tissues 
involved. 

Suppuration — A collection of purulent matter, which 
receives the name of abscess. 

Ulceration — A purulent solution of continuity of the 
soft parts arising from loss of substance. 

Hemorrhage occurs as a direct or indirect consequence 
of inflammation, from ulceration penetrating through 
the coats of an artery. 

Effusion — An exudation of serum, watery accumula- 
tions, as in dropsy. 

Hepatization — Conversion of a texture into a sub- 
stance like liver. 

Ossification — Formation of bone — change of soft 
structures into bony ones. 

The account we give is necessarily brief; but we trust 
it is sufiicient to furnish the reader with a clear concep- 



DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 158 

tion of the matter in hand, and in turn enable him to 
clearly comprehend that which is to follow. 

DISEASES OF THE MOUTH— LAMP ASS. 

All young animals, during the period of dentition, 
have a fullness or swelling of the gums and bars, or roof 
of the mouth. In many colts it occasions but little or 
no inconvenience, while in others the pain is so great as 
to interfere with their feeding. When this condition 
exists, do not resort to the barbarous practice of burning 
with a red-hot iron, but act humanely. Lance the bars 
with your pocket-knife, if you have nothing better, as 
your family physician would lance the gums of your 
child under similar circumstances, and in a few days the 
animal will feed as usual. 

BAGS, on WASHERS. 

These are soft, puffy swellings of the lining membrane 
of the mouth, caused by the bit bruising the parts in 
reining. If inconvenient to the animal, they may be re- 
moved by cutting off a portion of the swollen parts with 
a pair of scissors or a knife, after which apply a little 
alum-water, or equal parts of tincture of myiTh and 
water, to the wound two or three times a day. 

SORE MOUTH. 

This occurs from the same causes, and is situated 
usually at the angles of the mouth. Equal parts of 
tincture of myrrh, tincture of aloes, and water is the 
best application we can make. 

UNEVEN TEETH. 
The molar teeth of the horse very frequently become 
sharp and irregular, interfering with mastication to such 
an extent as to cause the digestive organs to become 



154 DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 

impaired, giving rise to an unliealtliy condition of tlie 
system. At times the insides of the cheeks become hice- 
rated by their sharp edges, causing them to become 
tumid and sore. These cases can only be remedied by 
the use of the horse-rasp, an instrument made for the 
purpose. 

WOLF-TEETH. 

These are two small teeth which make their appear- 
ance immediately in front of the upper molar teeth, in 
all colts at some period from the first to the fifth year. 
It is supposed by very many horsemen that they exert an 
evil influence over the eyes of the horse. My experience 
does not prove the fact, and I cannot reconcile my mind 
to believe that they, natural teeth, should be placed in 
the mouths of all colts, if they were injurious to the eyes 
or any other organs of the body. If you Avant them re- 
moved, the best plan is to extract them with a pair of 
dentist's forceps. In knocking them out, the roots are 
frequently left behind, and of course your object is not 
accomplished. 

CARIES OF THE TEETH. 

Caries, or decay of the teeth of horses, is a disease of 
frequent occurrence. The silence of veterinary writers 
upon the subject has caused it to be overlooked by those 
having the care of that useful animal, and the symptoms 
in consequence have been confounded with those of other 
diseases. 

Symjytoms. — Occasionally we have a fetid breath, 
fetid discharge from one nostril, a wheezing in the head, 
food improperly masticated, j^assing away undigested, 
quidding, droAvsing, hide-bound, staring coat, tucked- 
up belly, tossing the head, stopping short on the road, 
shaking his head and starting on again, and at times 



DISEASES OF THE IIOESE. 155 

becoming almost unmanageable. These symptoms do not 
all occur in the same animal ; one appearing drowsy, 
requiring the whip to urge him on, while another, at 
times, is v/ild and frantic with pain, taking the bit, and 
becoming troublesome to manage, occasionally running 
away. Some of those symptoms occur in other diseases ; 
but we should not overlook the teeth in our examina- 
tion when any of the above symptoms appear. Tlie only 
remedy is the extraction of the diseased teeth. 

DISTEMPEB. 

All catarrhal affections are classed under one general 
head, namely, distemper, by horse-owners generally ; 
a common cold, sore throat, influenza, bronchitis, and 
several others are regarded as distempers. We will en- 
deavor to make the distinction in such a manner that 
each form of disease may be readily discovered, and the 
proper remedies applied. Distemper, as we should un- 
derstand it, is the mildest form of catarrhal affections. 
A common cold, for instance, is an inflammation of the 
linino' membrane of the nose, causino- a secretion of mu- 
cus, which is more or less abundantly discharged from 
the nostrils ; in severe cases the inilaramation extends 
down the tracJiea, or Avindpipe, to the bronchial tubes, 
and sometimes to the lungs, producing diseases which 
are classed under different heads, and often requiring 
different treatment. 

SOKE-THROAT. 

This is usually one of the first indications of catarrh, 
and when confined to that portion of the throat at the 
angle of the jaws, it is termed laryngitis. The symptoms 
of this disease are well marked : the head is stiff, and if 
the throat is rubbed or pressed upon, excites coughing; 



156 DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 

the animal manifests difficulty in swallowing, and fre- 
quently considerable saliva collects in the mouth. 

Treatment. — Apply strong mustard made into a paste 
with vinegar, to the throat, and rub it well in ; or, lin- 
seed oil two parts, with spirits of hartshorn one part, 
will answer a good purpose. Give upon the tongue half 
a tea-sp)oonfiil of powdered saltpetre twice a day. 

STIIAK"GI.ES. 

This is a more severe form of laryngitis, involving the 
glands of the throat, causing very great swelling, which 
often threatens suffocation ; the respiration becomes dis- 
turbed, the breathing laborious, and can be heard at a 
considerable distance ; the animal SAveats from his con- 
vulsive efforts to breathe, and, if not relieved, dies a vio- 
lent deatli. Here the aid of the qualified veterinary 
surgeon is absolutely required, as there are few persons 
competent to perform the operation of tracheotomy, that 
is, opening the windpipe to admit air into the lungs : 
this, early performed, frequently saves the animal's life. 

Treatment, — Poultice the tliroat well with flax-seed 
meal, steam the nostrils two or three times a day ; and 
as soon as the swelling under the jaws becomes soft, 
it should be lanced. When relief is once obtained, the 
further treatment of these cases is the same as for ordi- 
nary sore-throat. 

INFLUENZA. 

Spring and fall are the seasons most productive of epi- 
demic catarrh. One year it assumes a mild form, the 
next, perhaps, a most malignant one. Influenza is known 
to horsemen under the common name of pink-eye dis- 
temper. 

Symptoms. — These vary very considerably in different 
animals. The usual or leading symptoms are: Slight 



DISEASES OP THE HOKSE. 15' 

watery or thin mucous discharges from the nose, eyelids 
presenting a reddish or orange-red appearance matter 
collects in the corners of the eyes, pulse feeble, great 
debility, as shown by the quiet, feeble action of the heart 
-a symptom rarely absent-membrane of nose much red- 
dened, sore-throat and cough : occasionally the feet be- 
come fevered as in founder, causing much stiffness, which 
may be easily mistaken for that disease. 

y,-6a«me««.-This being a typhoid disease, requires a 
sustaining treatment, or our success will be very doubt- 
ful In the early stage of the disease, give, the hrst 
two days, ten drops of tincture of aconite, or bryona, 
in a little water, every six hours ; after which give in a 
pail of water, to drink once a day, one ounce of spirits 
of nitre, or two drachms of extract of belladonna; and 
rnve in the feed, three times a day, one of the following 
powders: Gentian root, saltpetre, and anise-seed, of each 
one oz.-sulphate of quinine, one drachm; mix and 
divide into eight powders ; or, powdered cinchona and 
powdered quassia, of each 2 oz. ; powdered anise-seed, 1 
ounce; mix and divide into four powders. The throat 
should be bathed in mustard and vinegar, or with linseed 
oil 3 oz., spirits of hartshorn 1 oz., mixed together. No 
hay or corn should be given, but scalded oats and wheat 
bran, with linseed tea or oatmeal gruel, should consti- 
tute the diet; a few carrots would be very good, and 
above all, good nursing is very desirable. 

BBONCHITIS. 

This is an inflammation of the bronchial tubes, as its 
name implies, the aii-tubes of the lungs. It i^ "dually 
preceded by a shivering fit, the mouth is hot and full of 
saliva, the throat is sore, and if pressed upon excites a 
painful cough, discharge from the nose, appetite lost, 



158 DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 

pulse quick, and respiratioii labored, eyelids aud nos- 
trils reddened ; on applying the ear to the side, a gurg- 
ling sound is heard. 

Treatment. — Give the following ball in the early 
stage of the disease : Nitrate of potassa, pulverized digi- 
talis, and tartrate of antimony, of each half a drachm, 
molasses sufficient to make the ball. If the fever is not 
broken in twelve hours, repeat the ball. As soon as the 
desired object is obtained, give one of the following 
powders twice a day, in a sloppy mash : Nitrate of 
potassa one and a half ounces, nitrate of soda six ounces, 
divide into six powders ; or give the following : Extract 
of belladonna 1 drachm, spirits of nitre 1 oz., solution 
of acetate of ammonia 4 oz., in half a pint of water, as a 
drench. The throat and sides should be blistered ; the 
ordinary fly blister made thin with turpentine is very 
good, or mustard mixed Avith equal parts of water and 
spirits of hartshorn. Either of the above, when used, 
should be well rubbed in with the hand. 

IsTASAL GLEET. 

This is a chronic discharge, from one or both nostrils, 
of a whitish muco-purulent matter, the result usually 
of neglected catarrh. The general health of the animal 
does not seem to suffer ; he looks well, feeds well, and 
works well ; yet we have this discharge, which is caused 
by weakness in the secretory vessels of the lining mem- 
brane of the nose. The successful treatment in all cases 
where this disorder has existed, has been on the tonic prin- 
ciple ; bleeding and purging are positively injurious. 
Give one of the following powders night and morning : 
Sesquichloride of iron 2 oz., powdered cinnamon 1 oz., 
mix and divide into four powders ; or carbonate of 
iron, pulverized gentian, and pulverized quassia, of each 



DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 159 

1 oz, divide into 4 powders ; or mix vomica pulverized, 
X oz, liuseed meal, 2 oz, divide into 8 powders. An- 
other good preparation is muriate of barytes, i oz, 
linseed meal, 1 oz, divide into 8 powders. 

PNEUMONIA. 

This disease is known to horsemen as lung fever. It 
is either inflammatory or congestive, arising from vari- 
ous causes — as high feeding, badly-ventilated stables, 
violent exercise, or sudden changes from heat to cold. 
In the congestive stage there is no pulse to be found, 
and on applying the ear to the side, no sound is heard ; 
cold sweats bedew the body, the respiration is labored, 
eyes wild in their expression, legs cold, the animal ap- 
pears dull and stupid, and with difficulty made to move ; 
he does not lie down. In these cases medicines are not 
required ; in fVict, they often do more injury than good ; 
the free and speedy use of the lancet is our only hope, 
and a pure air is of the greatest importance ; a pail ot 
cold water should be placed before the animal, but no 
food should be given until the animal is relieved ; and 
then only mashes of wheat bran. Under this treatment 
he will speedilv recover, or inflammation of the lungs 
will be established. The pulse now becomes quick, the 
mouth hot, legs cold, head hanging in or under the 
manc^er, appetite lost ; on applying the ear to the side, 
a crep^itating or crackling sound is heard ; respiration 
quick • the treatment here must be prompt and ener- 
getic -'blisters to the sides, such as previously spoken of, 
must be used, and give internally two ounces of spirits 
of nitre in a half-pint of water ; follow this m two hours 
with ten drops of tincture of aconite in water, to be 
o-iven every six hours until relief is obtained; or give 
Tnstead one of the following powders : Tartrate of anti- 



160 DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 

mony, pulverized digitalis, of eaoh one drachm ; nitrate 
of potassa, one ounce ; mix and divide into eight pow- 
ders ; give one every four hours upon the tongue. In- 
jections of soap and water are very useful in these cases. 
The legs should be hand-rubbed, and stimulated with 
mustard or cayenne pepper, and then wrapped in wool- 
en bandages ; a pure atmosphere and good nursing are 
very necessary 

PLEURISY. 

This is an inflammation of the lining membrane of the 
chest and covering of the lungs. The symptoms are : 
Uneasiness, pawing, looking at the sides, pulse quick, 
pain on pressure over the ribs, body hot, lying down 
but rising quickly. The same treatment as in inflamma- 
tion of the lungs is called for ; but under no circum- 
stances should bleeding be resorted to. These cases are 
very apt to terminate in hydrothorax, or 

DSOPSY OF THE CHEST. 

Symptoms. — Breathing short and quick, legs strad- 
dling, pulse small and quick ; breast, belly, and sheath 
swell, and leave the mark of the finger when pressed 
upon ; the animal stands until he dies. The treatment 
of this dis-ease, as a general thing, is not very satisfac- 
tory. The iodide of potassa, in half-drachm doses, three 
times a day, has proved the most useful medicine in 
such cases, in connection with setons in the breast and 
sides. 

BROKEN WIND, OR HEAVES. 

This disease is well known to horsemen ; so we will 
content ourselves merely by giving the most successful 
remedies, which, for the most part, are only palliative. 
Divide half an ounce of pulverized digitalis in twenty 



DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 161 

parts, and give one part night and morning in the feed 
until gone ; this will usually allay all signs of the dis- 
ease in two weeks. Or, take assafcetida, two drachms ; 
camphor, one drachm ; mix and give every other night 
for a week. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE BOT^ELS. 

This disease may appear suddenly, or it may be slow 
in coming on. The symptoms resemble those of colic, 
with which disease it is often confounded. The pulse is 
our certain guide in determining the character of the 
disease : when that is full and natural, or nearly so, 
there is no inflammation ; if full, strong, and quick, 
there is inflammation ; other symptoms corresponding, 
there is no difiiculty in determining the case. In colic, 
the symptoms of pain are intermittent ; in inflammation 
of the bow^els, there are no intermissions. Other symp- 
toms which are present in both diseases are pawing, 
kicking the belly, rolling and tumbling about, sweating, 
haggard expression of countenance, looking at his sides, 
etc. ; in colic, tlie legs usually are warm ; in inflammation 
of bowels, they are cold. 

Treatynent. — Bleed freely from the neck-vein, and give 
ten drops tincture of aconite every three hours ; apply 
blankets saturated with hot water to the entire body, 
and keep it up for two hours ; then remove the wet ones 
and replace them with dry ones, Avell secured with a 
body-girth. Injections of tobacco-smoke are very useful 
in these cases ; when not convenient, soap and water 
will answer the purpose. No food of any kind should 
be given for at least forty-eight hours. 

DIARKHEA. 

The cause of this disease is exposure to cold, over- 



162 DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 

exertion, change of water, over-closes of cathartic medi- 
cine, etc. 

Ti'eatment. — Give one of the following powders every 
six hours until tlie bowels are checked : Powdered opi- 
um, one drachm ; powdered catechu, two drachms ; 
prepared chalk, one ounce ; mix and divide into four 
powders. 

COLIC, 

This disease — known also as gripes, cramp, and fret — 
is either spasmodic or flatulent. Spasmodic colic is a 
spasmodic contraction of the muscular coats of the in- 
testines, causing griping pains, etc., (see inflammation 
of bowels.) Flatulent colic is an accumulation of gas 
in the stomach and intestines, generated by fermenta- 
tion in the stomach, causing swelling of the abdomen, 
and sometimes rupture of the stomach. 

Treatment. — For spasmodic colic, give one ounce tinc- 
ture opium and one ounce sulphuric ether in half a pint 
of water ; this should be repeated in half an hour if re- 
lief is not obtained. Or, give the following : Tincture 
of opium, one ounce ; aromatic spirits of ammonia, lialf 
an ounce ; extract of belladonna, one drachm ; water, one 
pint ; mix. In flatulent colic give chlorate of potash, one 
half ounce ; sulphuric ether, one lialf ounce ; tincture of 
aloes, three ounces ; water, one pint ; mix and drench. 

'WORMS. 

Thousands of animals die annually from the ravages 
of these pests, without the true cause being suspected ; 
especially is this the case in the young of the mare, cow, 
sheep, and pig. Many varieties of these parasites belong- 
to our domestic animals which have not been mentioned 
by veterinary writers ; they are found in every tissue 
of the body, even to the blood. The symptoms of 



DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 163 

worms have been but very imperfectly described by 
writers upon the subject. In an experience of many 
years, I have observed the following symptoms, but not 
all in the same animal. Each variety of worm has its 
characteristic symptoms, namely : In bots, Ave rarely 
have loss of condition, but, when the bots become trou- 
blesome, colicky pains, gasping, quickened respiration, 
staring or haggard expression of the eye, with a strong- 
tendency to inflammation of the bowels will be observed. 
Bots are rarely troublesome except when passing away 
in their regular manner, which occurs from May to Au- 
gust in each year. In most other varieties of worms the 
symptoms are debility, feebleness, sluggish movements, 
emaciation, staring coat, hide-bound, and skin covered 
Avith scurvy blotches, rigidity of loins, small and feeble 
but slightly accelerated pulse, respiration slow, tucked- 
up belly, a peculiar, pallid appearance of the lining of 
the lips, (a certain indication,) ij-rcgular, capricious, but 
persistent appetite, badly digested faeces, agitation of 
heart and tail ; and Avhere the fundament Avorms exist, 
a Avhitish or yellowish-AA'hite substance AAdll be found 
about the fundament, indicated also by rubbing the 
tail 

The treatment for worms has been attended AA'ith 
much uncertainty heretofore, and is, to the present day, 
Avith practitioners generally. Those on Avhich most de- 
pendence has been placed are : Calomel, one half drachm ; 
tartrate of antimony, one half drachm ; linseed-meal, one 
half ounce ; mjx and give at night. Or, iron filings, two 
drachms ; common salt^ one half ounce ; powdered savin, 
one drachm ; linseed meal, one half ounce ; mix, give 
CA^ery night for a Aveek. Or, assafoetida, tAvo drachms ; 
calomel, one and a half drachms ; savin, one and a half 
drachms ; oil male fern, thirty drops ; linseed-meal, two 



164 DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 

drachms ; mix with molasses and give at night. Or, 
calomel, one drachm ; powdered wormwood, one ounce ; 
honey sufficient to make the ball ; give at night. Fol- 
low either of the above with the following ball : Barba- 
does aloes, one ounce ; pulverized gentian, two drachms ; 
pulverized ginger, one drachm ; water sufficient to make 
the ball. Another remedy highly recommended is the 
following : Barbadoes aloes, six drachms ; male fern, 
four ounces ; spirits turpentine, two ounces ; mix and 
divide into six balls ; give one three times a day. 

BETENTION OF URINE. 

This is known by frequent but unsuccessful effiDrts to 
stale. In some animals it arises from a dislike to spat- 
ter their legs in voiding the water ; hence a horse will 
frequently retain it in the bladder until the litter is 
shaken up under him, when he will at once relieve him- 
self. When the result of sj^asm of tiie neck of the blad- 
der, an instrument is used called a catheter, made ex- 
pressly for the purpose ; this is jDassed up the urinary 
passage to the bladder, when the water will flow freely 
and give instant relief. 

PKOFUSE STALING. 

The causes of this disease are, the improper use of diu- 
retic medicines, as saltpetre, rosin, etc. Unwholesome 
food will sometimes produce it. Treatment : Give one 
of the following balls every night — powdered opium ^ 
oz., powdered kino, 1 oz., prej^ared chalk, 1 oz. ; mix with 
molasses and make six balls. 

STONES IN THE B^-iADDER. 

These may exist a long time in the bladder before 
any symptoms arise indicating their presence. The first 



DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 165 

symptoms of stone are, frequent efforts to urinate, void- 
ing small quantities usually of a thick whitish color ; as 
the stones increase in size, the symptoms become more 
aggravated, colicky pains are indicated, rendering it diffi- 
cult to distinguish the difference ; the animal paws, kicks 
at his belly, lies down, rolls, and gets up quickly. In 
some cases these obstructions are dissolved by the ad- 
ministration of muriatic acid, 2 dr., in a pail of water 
once a day. Where this fails, an operation for the re- 
moval of the stone is the only remedy. This is not a 
dangerous operation, comparatively, in the hands of a 
skillful surgeon. 

QUITTEH. 

This is a formation of pus between the hoof and the 
soft structures within ; a sore at the coronet or upper 
part of the foot, which at first is a hard smooth tumor, 
soon becoming soft, and breaks, discharging quantities 
of pus. Treatment : Poultice the foot for several days with 
flax-seed meal. As soon as the hoof becomes soft, cut 
away all loose portions, but no more, and inject with a 
syringe either of the following once a day : Chloride of 
zinc, 2 dr., dissolved in 1 pint of water ; or sulphate of 
zinc, 1^ dr., dissolved in one pint of water; or nitrate of 
silver, 2 dr., in a pint of water; or glycerine may be 
used with advantage. Before using the wash have the 
foot well cleaned with castile soap and water. 

THEUSH. 

This is a disease of the frog, causing a discharge of 
matter from its cleft or division, occasionally causing 
lameness. The treatment is simple and effective : Wash 
the feet well with soap and water, and sj^rinkle a small 
quantity of pulverized sulphate of copper in the cleft, 



166 DISEASES OF THE HOBSE. 

and secure it by pressing a little raw cotton down upon 
it in such a manner as to keep out the dirt. In two or 
three days repeat, if necessary. It rarely requires a 
second dressing. 

CANKEB. 

This is a more aggravated form of thrush, often prov- 
ing very troublesome to manage. It is a continuation 
of the thrash between the horny frog and the internal 
structures of the foot, causing separation between tliem. 
Treatment : Cut away all the horn which has been sepa- 
rated from the soft structures of the foot, and apply the fol- 
lowing ointment: Take equal parts of pine tar and lard, 
melt over a slow fire, and add sulj^huric acid very slowly 
until ebullition ceases ; or use collodion, ^ oz., castor oil, 1 
oz. ; mix and apply to the parts. The foot must be pro- 
tected from dirt by a bandage or a leathern boot. 

SCRATCHES, 

This disease is well known to all horsemen. Treat- 
ment : Wash the parts well with castile soap and water, 
and when dry apply once a day the collodion and castor 
oil recommended in canker ; or use a saturated solution 
of the bichloride of mercury once a week, but not oftener, 
or mischief may arise in consequence of a too free use. 

GREASE HEELS. 

This is a white, offensive, greasy discharge from the 
heels of the horse; the skin becomes hot, tender, and 
swollen; the acrid character of the discharge often 
causes large portions of the skin to slough away, leaving 
an ugly sore behind. Treatment : Open the bowels with 
the following ball : Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz., pulverized 
gentian root, 2 dr., pulv. ginger, 1 dr., water sufficient 



DISEASES OF THE HOKSE. 167 

to make the ball ; wasli the parts well and poultice for 
two or three days with the following : Flax-seed meal 
mixed with a solution of 2 dr. sulphate of zinc to a pint 
of water, after which keep clean and bathe frequently 
with glycerine ; or the solution of zinc, or a solution of 
the chloride of lime may be used ; or the bichloride of 
mercury may be used in inveterate cases with good re- 
sults, provided it be not repeated oftener than once a 
week. ^ 

WATER-FARCY". 

Anasarca, as it is technically called, is of two kinds ; 
one occurring in young animals from inflammatory ac- 
tion, the other in old horses from general debility. It is 
known by swelling of the legs, belly, sheath, and other 
parts. In young animals, there is heat, and pain on pres- 
sure on the swollen parts ; in old horses, there is no pain 
on pressure, but the marks of the fingers are left behind. 
Treatment : Give one of the following powders night and 
morning in the feed ; sulphate of iron, 2 oz., nitrate of 
potassa, 1 oz., pulverized gentian, 1 oz., pulverized gin- 
ger, G drs., anise-seed, ground, -l-oz. ; mix and divide into 
8 powders ; or, sulphate of copper, nitrate of potassa, and 
pulverized gentian, of each 1 oz. ; pulverized ginger, -|- 
oz., anise-seed, ground, 6 drs. ; mix and divide into 8 
powders. Hand-rubbing and moderate exercise every 
day are very important, with a pure atmosphere in yoiir 
stable. 

FOUNDER. 

This disease occurs generally m the horse with hard, 
brittle, or contracted hoofs, in conseqnence of their in- 
ability to yield to the weight of the animal. In this 
condition they wait for the exciting or immediate cause 
to develop the disease. These causes are a hard 



168 DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 

drive uj^on a hard road, watering when warm, particu- 
larly when pump or spring water is used, standing in a 
draught of air, etc. Symptoms : Fore-feet thrown for- 
ward resting upon the heels, weight of the body thrown 
back upon the hind-legs, front-feet hot and tender, pulse 
full and quick, respiration accelerated; the animal in 
very severe cases seeks relief by lying down. Treat- 
ment : If the animal is in full condition, bleed freely from 
the feet, and give the following : Barbadoes aloe«, 6 dr., 
croton oil, 6 drops, pulverized ginger, 1 dr., pulverized 
gentian, 2 dr., mix with water in form of a ball; foment 
the feet well with hot water, and then poultice with flax- 
seed meal for several days ; give in the water every 6 hours 
extract of belladonna, 1 dr. Under this treatment the 
worst cases usually recover in one week's time if taken 
in hand early. 

POMICED FEET. 

This disease is known to horsemen as falling of the 
sole, and is the result of neglected founder. Careful 
shoeing, so as to protect the sole, is all that can be 
done in these cases. 

NAVICULAR-JOINT LAMENESS. 

Coffin-joint lameness, as it is commonly called, is one 
of very common occurrence, and the symptoms often so 
obscure as to mislead the ordinary observer. This dis- 
ease generally is preceded, for months before lameness 
is observed, by pointing ; that is, by advancing one foot 
whenever the animal is at rest. The degree of lameness 
varies considerably in diiFerent animals. In one case it 
is seen in the first half-mile's travel only ; in others it 
continues for a mile or two, and then disappears ; in 
some it continues during a journey ; but as the animal 
gets warmed up, it is not so severe as on the start. In 



DISEASES OF THE HOKSE. 169 

some cases it disappears for weeks together, and then 
shows itself again, gradually increasing in intensity un- 
til it becomes a permanent lameness. In the early stages 
of the disease there is no heat to be discovered about 
the foot, no swelling, no pain on pressing the heels ; the 
animal picks up the foot nicely, but drops it tenderly, 
striking the toe first ; the shoe, therefore, is worn con- 
siderably at the toe and very little at the heels. 
Should a horse be slightly lame in both feet, the symp- 
toms are still more obscure and difficult to diagnose. 
The action of the horse now becomes changed ; he no 
longer bends his knees with the same freedom as before ; 
he steps short, the heels scarcely touching the ground, 
which is a good indication of the disease. 

Treatment. — In recent cases, the application of a 
proper blister is usually successful ; the common fly 
blister, thinned with spirits of turpentine, answers a very 
good purpose ; or the following, which must be used 
with great caution to prevent its leaving a blemish be- 
hind : Powdered cantharides 2 drachms, oil of turpentine 
2 drachms, powdered euphorbium 1 drachm, oil of origa- 
num 1 drachm, hog's lard 2 ounces. Mix all together. This 
sliould not be repeated after the blister acts. In cases 
of long standing, a seton put through the frog will 
often be of great service in restoring the animal to use- 
fulness. 

OSSIFICATION OF THE LATERAL CABTILAGES. 

These cartilages are two gristly projections or wings 
attached to the coffin-bone at the heels, and may readily 
be felt above the hoof From contraction, corns, and 
other causes, these elastic bodies often become changed 
from gristle to bone in consequence of inflammation, 
leaving the horse with thick heels and a short, tender 



170 DieEASES OF THE HOBSE. 

tread in traveling. Tlie treatment in these cases is only 
palliative in its confirmed state ; the same treatment as 
for navicular-joint lameness is proper. 

SHOUIiDEH STRAIN". 

This arises from slipping, severe blows, falling in the 
shafts, etc. The sym2)toms are all well marked. The 
animal, instead of raising the foot, drags the toe on the 
ground in walking ; on making a lever of the leg, by 
bringing it forward, the animal manifests much pain ; 
these usually are jDOsitive symptoms. 

Treatment. — Bleed freely from the Plantar vein run- 
ning doAvn upon the inside of the front-legs. Foment 
the shoulders well with hot water if the case is a recent 
one. If of long standing, a seton will be more effective. 
The following liniment will be a useful application : 
Sweet oil 1 pint, spirits of hartshorn 3 oz., spirits of tur- 
pentine 2 oz. ; mix all together ; shake well before 
using. Or, alcohol 1 jDint, spirits of camphor, tincture of 
myrrh, castile soa23, of each 1 oz. ; mix all together ; or 
oil of turpentine 1 oz., tincture of opium 1 oz., soap lini- 
ment 1 oz,, tincture of capsicum 1 dr. ; mix all together. 

CAPPED HOOK. 

This is a bruise of the cap or point of the hock-joint, 
forming a serious abscess. 

Treatment. — Apply the blister recommended in coffin- 
joint lameness. Tincture of iodine or iodine ointment 
is sometimes useful. 

BOIXTE SPAVI]>J". 

This is one of the most common causes of lameness in 
the hind-legs. Spavin arises from strains, sprains, or 
blows upon the hock-joint, causing an inflammatory con- 



DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 171 

dition of the cartilaginous cushions which cover the 
uniting surfaces of each bone or of the ligaments that 
surround the joint and bind the bones together ; some- 
times both are involved. This inflammatory condition 
of the joint may be considered the exciting cause of 
spavin, and, if not speedily removed, spavin soon follows ; 
the synovial fluid, commonly called-joint oil, is soon ab- 
sorbed, the cartilages of the joint are turned to bone, 
which unite one with the other, forming one solid mass, 
destroying the mobility of the parts involved, and con- 
stituting what is technically called anchylosis of the 
hock-joint. This union of the bones is not always gen- 
eral, there being in many cases but two, three, or four 
of the bones involved. When these changes are con- 
fined to the cartilages, there is no external enlargement ; 
on the contrary, when the ligaments surrounding the 
joint are involved, we have in all cases external en- 
largement. When the hock receives an injury, the 
course of treatment usually pursued by horsemen is 
very pernicious. The application of a blister to an in- 
flamed surface must do injury by increasing the inflam- 
mation they wish to abate, and in many cases actually 
producing a spavin where it otherwise would not exist. 
I do not deny that blisters are necessary and useful in 
such cases, if properly applied ; but the idea of rubbing 
blisters on an inflamed surface, to reduce it, is like throw- 
ing shavings on burning coals to extinguish them. The 
educated physician, in applying a blister, does it so as 
to draw the inflammation from the part affected to a 
part where it will do no injury ; otherwise, it had better 
not be applied at all. When the disease has advanced 
so far as to produce alteration of structure in the part, 
the application of blisters is proper, not for the purpose 
of curing the disease, but with a view of removing the 



172 DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 

lameness, by increasing the inflammation, thereby causing 
a more speedy union of the diseased bones, which, when 
perfect, causes the animal to travel sound. The seton 
I have found the most successful in long-standing cases. 
In the early stages, that is, before any alteration of 
structure takes place, the application of cold water to 
the parts will often abate the inflammation, or a blister 
applied above or below the hock will have the desired 
efiect. Cooling embrocations, such as vinegar and wa- 
ter, are also good. When there is external enlarge- 
ment, active blisters should be applied over the part. 
Liquid blister : powdered croton seeds ^ oz., powdered 
cantharides 1 oz., oil of turpentine 1 jDt., olive oil 1 pt. ; 
mix all together and shake well before using. 

RING-BONE. 

This is a disease precisely like spavin, location only 
giving it a difierent name. The same alterations in 
structure take place, the same terminations follow, and 
the same treatment is called for. Ring-bone, unlike 
si^avin, rarely occurs without enlargement. I have 
never known of but one case of the kind. 

SPLINT. 
This is a bony deposit situated between the cannon 
and splint-bones, well known to all horsemen, rarely 
causing lameness, except when it is situated so as to in- 
terfere with the action of the knee-joint, or at the lower 
extremity of the splint-bone. Few horses attain the age 
of eight years without having them ; they disapj^ear in 
time by spreading over a greater surface of bone, be- 
coming flat upon the surface, giving rise to the opinion 
often indulged in by horsemen that old horses never 
have splint. Splint is a disease of the same character 
as spavm, and requires the same treatment. 



DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 173 

CURB, 

This is an enlargement at the back part of the hock, 
about four inches beloAV the caj^, arising from strains, 
bruises, breaking down of the hock, etc. 

Treatment. — In recent cases the part should be bathed 
with tincture of iodine once a day ; or use the iodine 
ointment. Take a little blood from the sephena vein on 
the inside of the hind-leg, above the hock. Should this 
not succeed, blisters must be resorted to ; the same 
applications as are used for spavins are applicable here. 

BLOOD OR BOG-SPAVIN. 

This is but one disease, a bursal enlargement or an 
increase in the secretion of the joint-oil causing disten- 
sion of the capsular ligament which surrounds the joint, 
causing puffy swellings on the front and inside of the 
joint, rarely causing lameness. Thoroughpin is the 
same disease on a more extensive scale, causing the 
enlargement to extend through the joint from one side 
to the other. The only successful treatment which I 
have found, with a few exceptions, is cold-water com- 
presses, placed upon the joint in such a manner as to 
press upon the swollen parts, and retain them there 
for six or eight weeks, by means of a leathern socket 
made to fit the joint ; the compresses to be changed 
every day ; old muslin or woolen cloth is the best ma- 
terial to use. 

PALPITATION OF THE HEART. 

This disease is known to horsemen as the thumps, in 
consequence of the violent action of the heart, causing a 
jerking or shaking of the entire animal frame, observable 
at a distance of several yards. This disease is sometimes 
preceded by an obscure lameness, generally occurring in 



174 DISEASES OE THE HORSE. 

the off fore-leg, which in medical language is termed 
sympathetic. ,. 

Ti-eatment. — The worst cases yield in two hours to 
the following simple treatment : Divide 1 dr. of digitalis 
into 5 powders, and give one every fifteen minutes on 
the tongue. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE BRAIN. 

Mad staggers, as this disease is called, arises from 
various causes. Blows over the head will produce it, 
over-feeding, a tight collar, powerful stimulants, etc. 
Symptoms : The animal at first is dull, and moves with 
apparent reluctance ; the membranes dividing tlie eye- 
lids and nose are much reddened, pulse full and quick, 
appetite lost, a vacant stare about the eyes, ending in 
delirium or madness. Every thing around the animal 
is destroyed or injured ; he continues his ravings until 
exhausted. 

Treatment, — Open the jugular vein as quickly as pos- 
sible ; this should be done before the mad stage comes 
on or it is too late to be of much service. Open the 
bowels freely ; give the following : Barbadoes aloes 1 
oz., croton oil 10 drops, ginger 1 dr., gentian 1 dr., mix 
with molasses or honey. Give tobacco-smoke injections 
if convenient, or soap and water will answer the pur- 
pose; give on the tongue every two hours 10 drops 
tincture of aconite, until 8 doses have been given, and 
then stop the aconite ; give cold water to drink and 
apply cold-water bandages to the head, or bags of ice 
would be better; give no food for 12 hours after relief 
is obtained. 

STOMACH STAGGERS. 

This disease occurs in horses that are great feeders ; 
in consequence the stomach becomes enormously dia- 



DISEASES OF THE HOBSE. 11 5 

tended, causing pressure upon the lungs and heart, in- 
terfering with the action of both, and causing a deter- 
mination of blood to the head, producing stupor, with 
a tendency to pitch forward, resting the head against 
a tree or any object which may be in his way ; the head 
often becomes bruised and cut by coming in contact 
with hard and rough objects ; the bowels are consti- 
pated, the pulse full and slow, respiration disturbed, etc. 
Treatment: — Give the purging ball recommended in 
inflammation of the brain, and bleed freely from the 
jugular vein ; give no food for 48 hours ; this is all the 
treatment the animal requires. As soon as the bowels 
are opened, the animal is relieved. Care should be used 
after recovery not to allow the animal too much pro- 
vender, and keep the bowls in good order as a prevent- 
ive of subsequent attacks. 

POLL-EVIIi. 

This disease is said to arise from blows upon the 
head behind the ears, in going in or out of stables 
with low doors, pulling upon the halter, etc. Such 
injuries in animals whose blood is in a bad condition 
will cause poll-evil ; but it can not live in a healthy sys- 
tem. The author's experience convinces him that the 
disease oftener arises from hereditary causes than from 
any other, having met Avith, on several occasions, two 
and three unbroken colts, from the same mare, affected 
with this disease ; proving, beyond a doubt, the ready 
transmission of the disease from parent to ofi*spring. 

Treatment. — The blood must be thoroughly purified 
before a cure can be effected. Give the following pow- 
der : Pulverized sulphur one lb., black antimony in pow- 
der one half lb. ; mix together ; dose, one table-spoonful 
morning and night, in the feed. 'No corn or corn-meal 



176 DISEASES OF THE HOKSE. 

should be given. Open the bowels with aloes or lin- 
seed oil. Lay the tumor open with a knife, and inject 
into the opening a solution of sulphate of zinc 2 drs., to 
1 pint of water, or the tincture of iodine is very good ; 
sulphuric acid is used in some cases, but it is a danger- 
ous remedy. 

FISTULA OF THE ^WITHERS. 

This disease is situated on the withers, or the raised 
line of the back, over the shoulders, and is precisely the 
same disease as poll-evil, location only giving it a differ- 
ent name. It is more common than poll-evil as ten to 
one, arising from the same causes, and requiring the 
same treatment ; it yields, however, more readily than 
the former disease. 

GLANDERS. 

This loathsome disease has defied medical treatment 
in all ages of the world. It is one of the most treach- 
erous diseases known to man, being highly contagious, 
and communicated readily from horse to horse, and from 
horse to man by means of inoculation. Hence the best 
treatment is a leaden ball through the brain. Symp- 
toms : A discharge of matter from one or both nostrils, 
enlargement of one or both glands under the jaw; when 
one nostril only is affected the gland on the same side 
is almost invariably enlarged, the membrane lining the 
nose is pale or leaden in color, Avith ulcerations upon it. 
The discharge usually sticks to the nostrils like glue, 
and is sometimes white, but oftener grayish in color. 
These latter symptoms appear in other diseases of a 
catarrhal character from an acrid discharge from the 
nose. Glanders fully developed is not easily confounded 
with other diseases, as the discharge becomes more glu- 
tinous and adheres to the edges of the nostrils more 



DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 177 

firmly, with increased tenderness of the swellings under 
the jaw, which now adheres closely to the jaw-bone; 
the discharge is somewhat streaked with blood, and of 
an offensive smell ; there is a slight tumefaction of the 
under eyelid, a swelling or elevation of the bones of the 
nose or forehead, loss of appetite, debility, sometimes 
cough, swelling of the legs and sheath, and sometimes 
lameness without any apparent cause, chancres or ulcer- 
ations within the nostrils. When these symptoms ap- 
pear, the disease soon proceeds to a fatal termination. 
Since the commencement of the rebellion many experi- 
ments have been made with a view to discoverinof a cure 
for the disease, and with some prospect of success. The 
suljDhate of soda, in ounce doses, three times a day, has 
been attended with partial success, and many cases are 
claimed through the agency of this simple remedy. 

FAKCY. 

This disease I regard as an incipient stage of glanders, 
or as a type of the same fatal malady, and is, to a certain 
extent, curable. There are two distinct varieties or 
stagei^ of farcy ; one, which is called button farcy, is 
altogether superficial, being confined to the lymphatic 
vessels of the skin, and readily yields to medical treat- 
ment ; the other variety makes its appearance in the ex- 
tremities, generally upon the inside of the hind-legs, 
which become completely engorged, presenting a very 
uneven or lumpy aj^pearance, excessively tender and 
painful to the touch. Small abscesses are formed, 
which at first discharge healthy pus, but soon ulcerate 
and discharge a thin, sanious matter. These abscesses 
first make their aj^pearance on the inside of the hind- 
legs, and then on the fore ones in like manner ; the neck 
and lips come next in turn, and they may appear in all 



178 DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 

parts of the body, when glanders will begin to manifest 
itself. 

Treatment. — Give one ounce of the sulphate of soda 
three times a day ; or corrosive sublimate, in ten-grain 
doses, twice a day ; or nux vomica, in \ dr. doses, twice 
a day. Sulphate of copper, in 2 dr. doses, has been used 
with decided advantage. The tumors should be opened, 
and caustic silver or red-hot iron applied to each. 

MANGE. 

This is a disease of the skin identical with itch in the 
human family. The hair comes oif in spots which grad- 
ually blend together, causing scabby patches ; the skin 
thickens and puckers along the neck. 

Treatment. — Take the horse in the sun and scrub him 
thoroughly all over with castile soap and water, then 
wash him well from head to tail with gas-water, in 
which put 2 drs. white hellebore to the gallon. He must 
now be put in another stall distant from the one in 
which he has been standing : thus treated, it rarely re- 
quires more than one washing to effect a permanent 
cure. The harness should be thoroughly scrubbed and 
put away for six or eight weeks. These precautions 
are necessary to success in this otherwise troublesome 
disease. 

SURFEIT. 

This is a scurfy eruption all over the body, arising 
from an impure condition of the blood, causing plethora 
in one animal, and general debility, etc., in another. 
The legs swell, the hair is rough and staring, the mem- 
brane lining in the nose presents a bluish cast. 

Give the following : Barbadoes aloes 1 oz., nitrate of 
potassa 2 drs., gentian 1 dr. ; make into a ball with 
water ; follow this with the following powder : Nitrate 



DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 179 

of potash 2 oz., pulverized sulphur 6 oz., black antimony 
2 oz. ; mix and divide into 16 powders, give one morning 
and night. 

HIDE-BOUND. 

Any derangement of the system has a tendency to 
produce this condition of the skin. Medicines of an alter. 
atiA^e character are here indicated ; the most successful 
are : Sulphur pulverized 8 oz., nitrate of potassa pulver- 
ized 3 oz., black antimony pulverized 2 oz., sulphate of 
iron 4 oz. ; mix all together and give one table-spoonful 
twice a day. Or Barbadoes aloes 2 oz., nitre 1 oz., gen- 
tian 1 oz. ; mix and divide into 16 powders, one to be 
given night and morning. 

LOCKED-JAA^. 

This is one of the most troublesome and uncertain 
diseases with which the veterinary surgeon has to com- 
bat ; it is technically called tetanus. It arises generally 
from nail-v/ounds in the feet, sharp, metallic substances 
taken into and wounding the stomach, or stones in the 
stomach or intestines ; bots are said occasionally to be 
the cause of locked-jaw, etc., etc. The first symptoms 
of the disease are observed about the ninth or tenth day 
after the injury is done, which are a straggling or stiff- 
ness of the hind-legs, to which succeeds, in a few days, 
the following : On elevating the head, a spasmodic mo- 
tion of the membrane in the inner corner of the eye will 
be observed, showing little more than the white of the 
eye, the muscles of the jaws become rigid, the tongue 
is swollen, and the mouth filled Avith saliva, the ears are 
erect, the nose poked out, the nostrils expand, the respir- 
ation becomes disturbed, and finally the jaws become 
firmly set, and the bowels are constipated. 



180 DISEASES OF THE HOUSE. 

Treatment. — That which I have found most success- 
ful is the early administration of the following : Tincture 
of aconite, two drachms ; tincture of belladonna, two 
drachms ; water, one half-ounce ; mix and give forty 
drops every four hours on the tongue. Keep a ball of 
aloes in the mouth for several days ; there is no fear of 
giving too much ; I have frequently given half a pound 
in the course of a few days, with good results. Hydro- 
cyanic acid, twenty drops in a little water, and j)ut upon 
the tongue every four hours, is an excellent remedy. 
Foment the jaws with bags of hops steeped in hot 
water, and bathe the line of the back from the pole to 
the croup with mustard and vinegar ; be careful not to 
allow the animal to be unnecessarily excited by noises 
and bustle about him, but go about him very quietly ; 
keep a pail of bran-slop before him all the time. If the 
foot has been injured, poultice with flax-seed meal and 
keep the wound open until healthy action has been es- 
tablished. 

BHEUMATISM. 

This is a common disease in some localities, as it is in 
the human family ; the animal appears stiff and sore, the 
lameness shifting from one limb to another, the joints 
sometimes become swollen and painful to the touch, the 
animal appearing better or worse, according to the sea- 
son of the year and the condition of the atmosphere. 

Treatment. — Open the bowels with the following : 
Calomel, one drachm ; Barbadoes aloes, four drachms ; 
alcohol, two drachms ; linseed-meal, two drachms ; mo- 
lasses enough to make into a ball ; follow tl\is with pine 
tar, one half-ounce, made into a ball with flax-seed meal ; 
give one every morning. Poultice the feet with flax- 
seed meal, four parts, ground mustard, one part, for 



DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 181 

several days ; and bathe the affected limbs with the fol- 
lowing liniment : Oil of turpentine, tincture of opium, 
soap-liniment, of each one ounce ; tincture of capsicum, 
one drachm ; mix all together ; shake well before using. 

CHAMP. 

This disease baffles the judgment of the most experi- 
enced horsemen, often creating unnecessary alarm from 
the peculiar manner in which the animal is handled. 

/Si/)7i2)toms. — The horse appears well in body and limb 
until efforts are made to move him ; he then appears to 
have lost all power of motion in one of his legs, usually 
the hind ones ; it is firmly planted on the ground, and 
the most powerful man fails to move it. On compelling 
the animal to move, the leg drags behind as though it 
were dislocated. Upon striking him with the whip he 
frequently will take two or three natural steps, and the 
leg drags as before. 

Treatment. — Hand-rubbing is very necessary, and use 
the following liniment upon the affected part : Alcohol, 
one pint; tincture of camphor, one half-pint; tincture 
of opium, four ounces ; mix all together. 

■WARTS. 

When the warts have necks, all that is necessary for 
their removal is a piece of silk tied tightly around them 
as closely to the roots as possible ; in a few days they 
will slough away : or if they are larger at their base, 
pass a needle armed with a double thread through the 
wart as near the root as possible, and tie each way, so 
as to cut off the circulation of the blood, and it will soon 
die and come away ; or paint it over with the perman- 
ganate of potash once a day for a week ; or use the 
caustic potash in the same manner ; either of these 
remedies usually answer the purpose. 



182 DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 

SADDLE-GALLS. 

These are too well known to horsemen to require any 
special remarks regarding their cause, etc. 

Treatmeyit. — Bathe the parts two or three times a day 
with equal parts of tincture of myrrh and tincture of 
aloes. Or, collodion, one ounce ; castor oil, two ounces ; 
mixed together : or, glycerine is a very good remedy. 

DISEASES OF THE EYE.— AMAUROSIS, OR GUTTA 

SERENA, 

Commonly called glass eye. In this disease the eyes 
have a peculiar glassy appearance, with an enlarged oi 
expanded pupil. The eyes are clear and show no indica- 
tions of disease to the ordinary observer, yet the animal 
is partially or wholly blind. The cause is paralysis of 
the optic nerve, the best means of detecting which is to 
expose the eye to different degrees of light, which, when 
disease exists, makes no impression on the pupil what- 
ever ; while in a sound eye the pupil contracts when ex- 
posed to a strong light, and expands when removed to a 
weaker light, or when removed to a dark place. An 
animal affected with amaurosis will run against any ob- 
ject in his way, and present all other symj^toms of a 
horse blind from any other cause. 

Treatment. — Give a strong purge ; follow this twice 
a day with half-drachm doses of nux vomica, mixed in 
the feed ; apply a fly-blister back of the eye, and give 
bran mashes for a few days. No corn should be used 
until the sight is restored. 

INFLAMMATION" OF THE HAW, 

As it is commonly called, also known as the Hooks. 
This a swelling from inflammation of the membrane in 
the inner corner of the eye, called the membrana nicti- 



DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 183 

tans ; its office or function is to cleanse the eye of dirt 
or other substances getting into it. 

Treatm^7it. — This is simple and effective : Open the 
bowels with the aloes ball recommended in rheumatism, 
and apply the following wash : Tincture of opium, one 
ounce ; rain-water, one pint ; mix together and bathe 
the eye three or four times a day. Do not be persuaded 
to cut out this membrane of the eye, as its removal does 
injury by impairing its function. 

SIMPLE OPHTHAI.MIA. 

This disease arises from some external injury, as a 
blow upon the eye, or from a foreign body getting into 
it, causing inflammation to ensue ; the eye becomes 
swollen, very sensitive, and watery. 

Treatment. — Open the vein under the eye and let it 
bleed until it stops of itself. Open the bowels, and 
use the following wash : Tincture of opium, six drachms ; 
tincture of aconite, two drachms ; rain-water, one pint ; 
mix all together, and bathe the eye three times a day : 
or, use belladonna, one ounce ; rain-water, one pint ; 
mix, and bathe the same. 

SPECIFIC OPHTHALMIA. 

This is called by horsemen moon-blindness, from its 
periodical apj^eara-nce ; supposed by some persons to be 
governed by the moon. The eyes in this disease become 
watery, and a white film covers the entire ball of the 
eye. When this disease once appears, we may look for 
its termination in blindness. The eyes may be cleared 
up a few times, but eventually the animal goes blind. 

Treatment. — Open the bowels freely with the aloes 
ball, and give internally one of the following powders in 
the feed, night and morning : Colchicum root jjulverized, 



184 DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 

one ounce ; linseed meal, two ounces ; mix and divide 
into twenty powders. Bathe the eye with the follow- 
ing : Belladonna, one ounce ; rain-water, one pint : or, 
nitrate of silver, eight grains ; distilled water, four 
ounces ; mix : or, sulphate of zinc, one half drachm ; 
diacetate of lead, one drachm ; water, one and a half 
pints : or, take a piece of sulphate of copper, (blue- 
stone.) shave it thin and smooth, and pass it carefully 
between the eyelid and the eyeball twice a day until 
the eye is cleared up. 

CATAHACT. 

This disease is usually the result of termination of 
sj^ecific ophthalmia, causing an opacity or breaking up of 
the crystalline lens, situated directly behind the pupil, 
presenting a white and cloudy appearance in the centre 
of the eye, and causing partial or total blindness. Little 
can be done by way of treatment in this disease as it 
occurs in the horse. 



EECAPITULATIOI^ OF EEMEDIES. 



Jjampass. — Lancing. 

Bags or Washers. — Cutting, and apply alum- water or 
tincture myrrh and water, equal parts. 

Sore Mouth. — Tinctures myrrh, aloes, and water, 
equal parts. 

Uneven Teeeh. — Filing. 

Wolf -Teeth. — Extracting with dentist's forceps. 

Caries or Diseased Teeth should be extracted. 

Sore-Throat. — Mustard paste with vinegar, or linseed 
oil two parts, ammonia one part, applied outwardly. 
Powdered saltpetre, half-tea-spoonful upon tongue twice 
a day. 

Strangles. — Flax-seed poultice, steam nostrils, and 
lancing. Veterinary surgeon if possible. 

Influenza. — Tincture of aconite or bryona, ten drops 
in water every six hours for two days, then spirits nitre 
1 oz., extract belladonna 2 dr., in a pail of water once a 
day. A powder of gentian root, saltpetre, and anise-seed, 
each 1 oz., sulphate of quinine 1 dr. ; mix and divide 
into eight powders ; give three times a day in feed ; or 
powdered cinchona and powdered quassia each 2 oz., pow- 



186 RECAPITLTLATION OF REMEDIES. 

dered anise-seed 1 oz. ; mix and divide into four powders, 
and give three times a day in feed. Bathe throat in 
mustard and vinegar, or with linseed oil 3 oz. and am- 
monia 1 oz., mixed. 

Bro7ichitls. — A ball of nitrate of potassa, j^ulverized 
digitalis, and tartrate of antimony, each \ dr., molasses 
sufficient to make the ball ; once in twelve hours till 
fever is broken ; then nitrate of potassa \\ oz., nitrate 
of soda 6 oz. ; mix and divide into six powders ; twice 
a day in mash ; or extract belladonna 1 dr., spirits nitre 

1 oz., solution of acetate of ammonia 4 oz., in half pint 
of water as a drench. Blister throat and sides with fly- 
blister and turpentine ; or mustard, ammonia, and wa- 
ter. Rub in with the hand. 

Nasal Gleet. — Give night and morning one of the fol- 
lowing powders : Sesquichloride of iron 2 oz., powder- 
ed cinnamon 1 oz., mix and divide into 4 powders ; or 
carbonate of iron, pulverized gentian, and pulverized 
quassia, of each 1 oz., divide into 4 powders ; or nux 
vomica pulverized, \ oz., linseed meal 2 oz., divide into 
8 powders. Another good preparation is muriate of 
barytes \ oz., linseed meal 1 oz., divide into 8 powders. 

JBrohen Wind or Heaves. — Divide half an ounce of 
pulverized digitalis in 20 23arts, and give one part night 
and morning in the feed, until gone ; or take assafoetida 

2 drs., camphor 1 dr., mix and give every other nig]it 
for a week. 

Inflammation of the Bowels. — Bleed from neck, give 
10 drops tincture aconite every three hours, apply hot 
wet blankets, inject tobacco-smoke or soap and water, 
No food for forty-eight hours. 

Diarrhea. — Give every six hours until checked, pow- 



RECAPITULATION OF REMEDIES. 187 

ered oi^iiim 1 dr., powdered catechu 2 drs., prepared 
chalk 1 oz., mix and divide into 4 powders. 

Colic^ Spasmodic. — Give 1 oz. tincture opium and 1 
oz. sulphuric ether in half a pint of water ; repeat in 
half an hour if relief is not obtained. Or, give the fol- 
lowing : Tincture of opium 1 oz., aromatic spirits of am- 
monia \ oz., extract of belladonna 1 dr., water 1 pint, 
mix. In flatulent colic, give chlorate of potash \ oz., 
sulphuric ether \ oz., tincture of aloes 3 oz., water 1 
pint, mix and drench. 

Worms. — Calomel \ dr., tartrate of antimony \ dr., 
linseed meal \ oz., mix and give at night ; or iron filings 
2 drs., common salt \ oz., powdered savin 1 dr., linseed 
meal \ oz., mix, give every night for a week ; or assa- 
foetida 2 drs., calomel \\ drs., savin \\ drs., oil male fern 
30 drops, linseed meal 2 drs., mix with molasses and 
give at night ; or calomel 1 dr., powdered w^ormwood 1 
oz., honey sufficient to make the ball ; give at night. 
Follow either of the above with the following ball : Bar- 
badoes aloes 1 oz., pulverized gentian 2 drs., pulverized 
ginger 1 dr., water sufficient to make the ball. Another 
remedy : Barbadoes aloes 6 drs., male fern 4 oz., spirits 
turpentine 2 oz., mix and divide into 6 balls ; give one 
three times a day. 

Retention of Urine. — Give a ball every night of pow- 
dered opium \ oz., powdered kino 1 oz., prepared chalk 
1 oz., mixed with molasses and made into six balls. 

Sitone in Bladder .—^hrA'S^XQ. acid 2 drs. in a pail of 
water once a day. 

QidUer.~¥\'xyi-%(^^(\. meal poultice till soft, then cut 
away. Inject once a day: Chloride of zinc 2 drs., dis- 
solved in 1 pint of water; or sulphate of zinc \\ drs., 



188 RECAPITULATION OF REMEDIES. 

dissolved in 1 imii of water ; or nitrate of silver 2 drs., 
in a pint of water ; or glycerine may be used with ad- 
vantage. Before using the wash, have the foot well 
cleaned with castile soap and water. 

Thrush. — Wash the feet well with soap and water, 
and sprinkle a small quantity of pulverized sulphate of 
copper in the cleft, and secure it by pressing a little raw 
cotton. 

Canker. — Take equal parts of pine tar and lard, add 
sulphuric acid while melting, apply to foot ; or use collo- 
dion ^ oz., castor oil 1 oz., mix and apply to the parts. 

Scratches. — Wash parts in soap and water, and apply 
once a day : Collodion -t oz., castor oil 1 oz. ; or apply 
once a week saturated solution bichloride of mercury. 

Grease Heels. — Give a ball of Barbadoes aloes 1 oz., 
pulverized gentian root 2 drs., pulverized ginger 1 dr., 
water sufficient to make the ball ; wash the parts well 
and poultice for two or three days with the following : 
Flax-seed meal mixed with a solution of 2 drs. sulphate 
zinc to a pail of Avater ; bathe frequently with glycerine, 
or a solution of zinc, or a solution of chloride of lime. 

Water Farcy. — Give one of the following powers 
night and morning in the feed : Sulphate of iron 2 oz., 
nitrate of potassa 1 oz., pulverized gentian 1 oz., pul- 
verized ginger 6 drs., anise-seed, ground, \ oz., mix and 
divide into 8 powders ; or sulphate of copper, nitrate of 
potassa, and pulverized gentian, of each 1 oz., pulverized 
ginger \ oz., anise-seed, ground, 6 drs., mix and divide 
into 8 powders. Rub hard and exercise moderately. 

Founder. — If the animal is in full condition, bleed 
freely from the feet, and give the following : Barbadoes 



RECAPITULATION OF EEMEDIES. 189 

aloes 6 drs., croton oil 6 drops, pulverized ginger 1 dr., 
pulverized gentian 2 drs., mix with water in form of 
ball ; foment the feet well with hot water, and then 
poultice with flax-seed meal for several days ; give in 
the water every 6 hours extract of belladonna 1 dr. 

Shoulder Strain. — Bleed freely from the Plantar vein 
running down upon the inside of the front legs. Fo- 
ment the shoulders well with hot water if the case is a 
recent one. If of long standing, a seton will be more 
effective. The following liniment will be a useful appli- 
cation : Sweet oil 1 pint, spirits of hartshorn 3 oz., spir- 
its of turpentine 2 oz. ; mix all together ; shake well 
before using ; or alcohol 1 pint, spirits of camphor, tinc- 
ture of myrrh, castile soap, of each 1 oz. ; mix all to- 
gethei* ; or oil of turpentine 1 oz., tincture of opium 1 
oz., soap liniment I oz., tincture of capsicum 1 dr. ; mix 
all together. 

Capped IIocJc. — Blister ; tincture of iodine, or iodine 
ointment is useful. 

Bone Spavhi. — When there is external enlargement, 
active blisters should be applied over the part. Liquid 
blister : Powdered croton seeds ^ oz., powdered cantha- 
rides 1 oz., oil of turpentine 1 pt., olive oil 1 pt. ; mix 
all together, and shake well before using. 

Curb. — In recent cases the part should be bathed with 
tincture of iodine once a day ; or use iodine ointment. 
Take a little blood from the sephena vein on the inside 
of the hind-leg, above the hock. Should this not suc- 
ceed, blisters must be resorted to. 

Blood or JBog Spavin. — Use cold-water compresses, 
placed upon the joint for six or eight weeks, by means 



190 RECAPITULATION OF REMEDIES. 

of a leatliern socket made to fit. Old woolen or muslin 
cloth is best. 

Palpitation of the Heart, — The worst cases yield in 
two hours to the following simple treatment : Divide 1 
dr. of digitalis into 5 powders, and give one every fif- 
teen minutes on the tongue. 

Inflammation of the JBrain, — Open the jugular vein 
as quickly as possible. It should be done before the mad 
stage comes on, or it is too late to be of much service. 
Open the bowels freely ; give the following : Barbadoes 
aloes 1 oz., croton oil 10 drops, ginger 1 dr., gentian 1 
dr. ; mix with molasses or honey. Give tobacco-smoke 
injections if convenient, or soap and water will answer 
the purpose ; give on the tongue every two hours 10 
drops tincture of aconite, until 8 doses have been given, 
and then stop the aconite ; give cold water to drink and 
apply cold-water bandages to the head, or bags of ice 
would be better ; give no food for twelve hours after 
relief is obtained. 

Stomach Staggers. — Give the purging ball recom- 
mended in inflammation of the brain, and bleed freely 
from the jugular vein ; give no food for forty-eight 
hours ; this is all the treatment the animal requires. 

Poll- Evil. — Give the following powder : Pulverized 
sulphur 1 lb., black antimony in powder \ lb. ; mix to- 
gether ; dose, one table-spoonful morning and night in 
the feed. No corn or corn-meal should be given. Open 
the bowels with aloes or linseed oil. Lay the tumor 
open with a knife, and inject into the opening a solution 
of sulphate of zinc 2 drs., to 1 pint of water, or the tinc- 
ture of iodine is very good ; sulphuric acid is used in 
some cases, but it is a dangerous remedy. 



RECAPITULATION OF KEilEDIES. 191 

Glanders. — Sulphate of soda in 1 oz. doses three times 
a day has been attended with partial success ; but poAV- 
der and ball, applied through the medium of a rifle, is 
the only sure cure we know of. 

Farcy. — Give 1 oz. of the sulphate of soda three times 
a day, or corrosive sublimate in ten-grain doses twice a 
day ; or nux vomica in \ dr. doses twice a day. Sul- 
phate of copper in 2 dr. doses has been used with de- 
cided advantage. The tumors should be opened and 
caustic silver or a red-hot iron applied to each. 

Mange. — Take the horse in the sun and scrub him 
thoroughly all over with castile soap and water, then 
wash him well from head to tail with gas-water, in which 
put 2 drs. white hellebore to the gallon. Put him in a 
difterent stable and use a clean harness. 

Surfeit. — Give the following : Barbadoes aloes 1 oz., 
nitrate of potassa 2 drs., gentian 1 dr., make into a ball 
with water ; follow this with the following powder : 
Nitrate of potash 2 oz., pulverized sulphur G oz., black 
antimony 2 oz. ; mix and divide into 16 powders ; give 
one morning and night. 

Hide-Bound. — Take sulphur, pulverized, 8 oz., nitrate 
potassa, pulverized, 3 oz., black antimony, pulverized, 2 
oz., sulphate of iron 4 oz. ; mix together ; give 1 table- 
spoonful twice a day. Or, Barbadoes aloes 2 oz., nitre 
1 oz., gentian 1 oz. ; mix and divide into 16 powders, 
to be given night and morning. 

Rheumatism. — Open the bowels with the following . 
Calomel 1 dr., Barbadoes aloes 4 drs., alcohol 2 drs., 
linseed meal 2 drs., molasses enough to make into a 
ball ; follow this with pine tar \ oz., made into a ball 
with flax-seed meal ; give one every morning. Poultice 



192 BECAPITUXATION OF EEMEDIES. 

the feet with flax-seed meal 4 parts, ground mustard 1 
part, for several days ; and bathe the affected limbs 
with the following liniment : Oil of turpentine, tincture 
of oi^ium, soap liniment, of each 1 oz., tincture of capsi- 
cum 1 dr. ; mix all together ; shake well before using. 

Cramp. — Hand-rubbing is very necessary, and use 
the following liniment upon the affected part : Alcohol 
1 pint, tincture of camphor ^ pint, tincture of opium 4 
oz. ; mix all together. 

Saddle- Galls. — Bathe the parts two or three times a 
day with tincture of myrrh and tincture of aloes, equal 
parts ; or collodion 1 oz., castor oil 2 oz., mixed ; or gly- 
cerine. 

Amaurosis. — Give a strong purge ; follow this twice 
a day with ^ dr. doses of nux vomica mixed in the feed ; 
apply a fly-blister back of the eye. Give no corn until 
sight is restored. 

The Hooks. — Open the bowels with the aloes ball 
recommended in rheumatism, and apply the following 
wash : Tincture of opium 1 oz., rain water 1 pint ; mix 
together and bathe the eye three or four times a day. 
Do not be persuaded to cut out this membrane of the 
eye, as its removal does injury by impairing its function. 

Simple Ophthalmia. — Open the vein under the eye and 
let it bleed until it stops of itself. Open the bowels, and 
use the following wash : Tincture of opium 6 drs., tinc- 
ture of aconite 2 drs., rain-water 1 pint ; mix all to- 
gether and bathe the eye three times a day ; or use bel- 
ladonna 1 oz., rain-water 1 pint ; mix and bathe the 
same. 



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